[red6.2]

if he didn't tell you this, well.... (no comment).

[laynlo15]

If your Afr is in the 12.5 to 12.8 on E65 and you're on 26-28 degrees of timing you should be relatively safe on E60 to E65 for short burst like 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile passes. I didn't use to beat on my car too much on the street till I started running drag radial on the all the time so its much safer when your not continually blowing the tires off every time you go WOT.. You need HP Tuners and be able to understand what the number on the log mean. If you're at 28 degrees and your seeing knock, high AIT numbers then you probably need to pull a little timing back out on your Flex Fuel table. Log, Log and log or one day on high timing and too much knock and you'll be replacing your short block. Don't try to be the boost king, how do I know, because I've been there. Crank case ventilation is about as important as anything when running high boost and lots of timing. Knock will start to kill the ring lands, front and rear crank seals, been there. If you don't have HP tuners and you're relying on someone else tuning your car then you should buy it and you should be sending logs to them for changes as needed. Just saying, its less expensive than a short block and you might just learn something where at some point you don't have to rely on them for tuning.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

If your Afr is in the 12.5 to 12.8 on E65 and you're on 26-28 degrees of timing you should be relatively safe on E60 to E65 for short burst like 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile passes. I didn't use to beat on my car too much on the street till I started running drag radial on the all the time so its much safer when your not continually blowing the tires off every time you go WOT.. You need HP Tuners and be able to understand what the number on the log mean. If you're at 28 degrees and your seeing knock, high AIT numbers then you probably need to pull a little timing back out on your Flex Fuel table. Log, Log and log or one day on high timing and too much knock and you'll be replacing your short block. Don't try to be the boost king, how do I know, because I've been there. Crank case ventilation is about as important as anything when running high boost and lots of timing. Knock will start to kill the ring lands, front and rear crank seals, been there. If you don't have HP tuners and you're relying on someone else tuning your car then you should buy it and you should be sending logs to them for changes as needed. Just saying, its less expensive than a short block and you might just learn something where at some point you don't have to rely on them for tuning.

Did u run that kind of timing with 11.5 compression and 13 to 15 pds boost with e60?

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Did u run that kind of timing with 11.5 compression and 13 to 15 pds boost with e60?

We ran 27 degrees of timing, 15 psi or more psi but just made too many passes at the level. But we also ran some higher boost then that. The stock short block was totally abused with 180 or so passes down the track and 12,000 miles on the odometer. I mentioned the crank case ventilation, dam important on high boost motors. I have dozens of logs on that car and we rarely seen any knock. We didn't have enough evidently since it pushed the front seal out and probably 15 passes later it pushed the rear out, two broken ring lands and a new short block was next on the agenda. We were running meth/water injection for some extra fueling. When I sold it there was probably 250 passes and 12,500 miles and the new owner I would guess put another 30 passes down the track and the stock Trans and converter were still in the car. I pulled the converter out after the 1st stock motor, then the second Forged motor (broke the crank) and the fluid had no issues at all, nice red color and no shiny stuff in the fluid.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

We ran 27 degrees of timing, 15 psi or more psi but just made too many passes at the level. But we also ran some higher boost then that. The stock short block was totally abused with 180 or so passes down the track and 12,000 miles on the odometer. I mentioned the crank case ventilation, dam important on high boost motors. I have dozens of logs on that car and we rarely seen any knock. We didn't have enough evidently since it pushed the front seal out and probably 15 passes later it pushed the rear out, two broken ring lands and a new short block was next on the agenda. We were running meth/water injection for some extra fueling. When I sold it there was probably 250 passes and 12,500 miles and the new owner I would guess put another 30 passes down the track and the stock Trans and converter were still in the car. I pulled the converter out after the 1st stock motor, then the second Forged motor (broke the crank) and the fluid had no issues at all, nice red color and no shiny stuff in the fluid.

Well I am no where near that timing. Im e60 with meth. So maybe I am missing some power. I know going from 13 to 16 was like 80 hp. Im like 22 now on the e60

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Well I am no where near that timing. Im e60 with meth. So maybe I am missing some power. I know going from 13 to 16 was like 80 hp. Im like 22 now on the e60

What kind of hp are you making?

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Kerry

Well I am no where near that timing. Im e60 with meth. So maybe I am missing some power. I know going from 13 to 16 was like 80 hp. Im like 22 now on the e60

With my 2650 Maggie and the new motor we only ran about 13 to 14 lbs of boost and maybe about 25 degrees of timing. We just didn't have to push the 2650 like we did the 2300.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

What kind of hp are you making?

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