wideband install - Page 2

blazzin1 · 04-22-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham

Ya wouldn't cost much but my headers are ceramic coated so I don't want to grind it off and have a hot spot.

Mine too! Another reason to at least try the aft O2 port!

51FIFFT · 04-23-2019, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

So is everyone running wiring all the way out to the fuse box for their switched power, or is there a more convenient source under the dash somewhere? I also notice it says to use a 5a fuse on that power source.

I ran my wires out the sound tube hole to the fuse box. I can get you pictures if that will help.

blazzin1 · 04-23-2019, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 51FIFFT

I ran my wires out the sound tube hole to the fuse box. I can get you pictures if that will help.

Nah, I appreciate it, but I did find a video with a guy doing that same thing. I was just wondering if there was a good power source closer (under the dash), without having to run wiring all the way out to the fuse box. But I guess that would be the “proper” way of doing it!

L78toLT1 · 04-23-2019, 12:32 PM

I tapped into the cigarette lighter plug wire under the center console. Just remember that this wire and mist others don't switch off until you open the door.

chross12 · 04-24-2019, 08:24 AM

40K on a 2016 2SS and as I said earlier there are two small pin holes on both sides. Looks like it melted to a small point. Any ideas to a solution? Do you think they would be under warranty?

blazzin1 · 04-24-2019, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chross12

40K on a 2016 2SS and as I said earlier there are two small pin holes on both sides. Looks like it melted to a small point. Any ideas to a solution? Do you think they would be under warranty?

I’m not sure what this has to do with this thread, but I’m thinking those holes you’re talking about are supposed to be there to allow any condensation in the muffler to drain out rather than cause more rust!

blazzin1 · 04-26-2019, 04:54 PM

Well, I did it, and now I regret it!!! I went and had a sensor bung welded into my collector for the wideband. But the guy did such a crappy welding job, it looks horrible!!! This is supposed to be a reputable exhaust welder in my town. I’m sure it’ll be plenty functional, and not to make excuses for they guy, but the working area was pretty cramped! But come on, look what he did to my beautiful ceramic coated SW headers!!! I’m regretting my decision now, I should’ve just tried it behind the cat!!! No, that’s not the bung that came with the gauge. The welder had these angled bungs, and thought they would give a little more room...still looks like crap!

JCunningham · 04-26-2019, 11:07 PM

ya thats a crap weld job. check for leaks.

J8126 · 04-24-2020, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Well, I did it, and now I regret it!!! I went and had a sensor bung welded into my collector for the wideband. But the guy did such a crappy welding job, it looks horrible!!! This is supposed to be a reputable exhaust welder in my town. I’m sure it’ll be plenty functional, and not to make excuses for they guy, but the working area was pretty cramped! But come on, look what he did to my beautiful ceramic coated SW headers!!! I’m regretting my decision now, I should’ve just tried it behind the cat!!! No, that’s not the bung that came with the gauge. The welder had these angled bungs, and thought they would give a little more room...still looks like crap!

that looks like i welded it when i was 8 years old.... looks like carbon ER70s wire onto a 304 stainless header( i dont anyone making regular steel headers). you need to have it properly redone and brushcoated after.. stainless wired mig.

Joshinator99 · 04-24-2020, 05:39 PM

In case someone reads this thread in the future, the moral of the story is to weld the bungs in before ceramic coating and before installing the headers.

RockySS · 04-27-2020, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1

So is everyone running wiring all the way out to the fuse box for their switched power, or is there a more convenient source under the dash somewhere? I also notice it says to use a 5a fuse on that power source.

There are options for this installation - if you don't plan on leaving the gauge installed, and are just going to us it during data collection runs, you can buy an adapter and pull the power from the cigarette lighter. The "sensor" cable can be stored up under the dash when not in use

04-23-2019, 12:32 PM	#18
L78toLT1 Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: North Ga Posts: 1,787	I tapped into the cigarette lighter plug wire under the center console. Just remember that this wire and mist others don't switch off until you open the door. __________________ Baby Blue 2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned

04-24-2019, 08:24 AM	#19
chross12 Drives: 2016 ss whipple,rotofab,A8,magride Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Destin, Florida Posts: 128	holes in both mufflers? 40K on a 2016 2SS and as I said earlier there are two small pin holes on both sides. Looks like it melted to a small point. Any ideas to a solution? Do you think they would be under warranty?

04-26-2019, 04:54 PM	#21
blazzin1 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: St. Cloud, FL Posts: 4,845 View My Garage	Well, I did it, and now I regret it!!! I went and had a sensor bung welded into my collector for the wideband. But the guy did such a crappy welding job, it looks horrible!!! This is supposed to be a reputable exhaust welder in my town. I’m sure it’ll be plenty functional, and not to make excuses for they guy, but the working area was pretty cramped! But come on, look what he did to my beautiful ceramic coated SW headers!!! I’m regretting my decision now, I should’ve just tried it behind the cat!!! No, that’s not the bung that came with the gauge. The welder had these angled bungs, and thought they would give a little more room...still looks like crap! Attached Images

04-26-2019, 11:07 PM	#22
JCunningham Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: WNY Posts: 7,070	ya thats a crap weld job. check for leaks. __________________ real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1

04-24-2020, 05:39 PM	#24
Joshinator99 Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Petersham MA Posts: 4,756	In case someone reads this thread in the future, the moral of the story is to weld the bungs in before ceramic coating and before installing the headers. __________________ 2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors, LPE BB HPFP, 15” conversion *1059 WHP/944 WTQ, 9.48@150*

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