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Old 02-09-2015, 02:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by vroomapunk View Post
It had a decent amount of mileage on that oil change, it definitely needed to be changed. Maybe 9,500 miles ( in my defense the oil and filter are supposed to be ok to 15k miles). I will probably start changing at 5k miles.

It is an Amsoil Filter
That's your problem right there most likely. In a car you're going to run hard, I would change the oil every 3000-5000 miles max. Running a car hard increases blowby which ends up contaminating your oil. That's the main reason for changing your oil.
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:01 PM   #16
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Let me ask a really dumb question-
couldn't you sample the oil from the engine, vs a sample from the filter, vs. a sample from the catch can and see better results of imaging?
Catch can will not be accurate as it is contaminated oil that has turned into a mist and recaptured in the catch can due to it's design. You run into the same problem sampling at the filter. It's an easily contaminated sample area.

The best way would be if you could access the oil pan via a sterile tube and a pump through say the dipstick.
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:04 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 1sick_eg View Post
That's your problem right there most likely. In a car you're going to run hard, I would change the oil every 3000-5000 miles max. Running a car hard increases blowby which ends up contaminating your oil. That's the main reason for changing your oil.
Gotcha. I honestly dont run it hard. Ive raced twice (drag raced) at each Camarofest. Other than that, its a grocery-getter. All highway 50-65 mph all the way to work and back home. And thats basically it.

So you think the test is basically looking for 5k miles of iron and its finding 10k miles of iron?

Ill try doing another oil analysis at 5k miles on the oil and see what it says.

Thanks for the help/input guys.
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:33 PM   #18
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I think that's your main problem, yes. The best thing you can do is retest in <5000 miles and see what shows up. I don't think you have any issues based on mileage and reported findings. The only reason the oil is good for higher mileage is the type of detergents used. That helps with blow-by and keeping the oil clean. That won't do anything for the wear findings in your sample however.

Keep us posted on your next sample.
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:13 PM   #19
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Definitely change the oil sooner than 9k miles on a cammed engine even if that oil is rated for 15k-25k. It would probably be better if you used the Amsoil Zrod or Joe Gibbs LS30 for a cammed car and change every 3k miles.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:17 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by VADER SS L99 View Post
Definitely change the oil sooner than 9k miles on a cammed engine even if that oil is rated for 15k-25k. It would probably be better if you used the Amsoil Zrod or Joe Gibbs LS30 for a cammed car and change every 3k miles.
I spoke with an Amsoil technician about this, and he didnt recommend ZRod for a DD. He recommended putting Zrod in to race and using the Amsoil signature for the rest of the year. And I dont race. And the whole needing or not needing zinc for a roller cam has been discussed a million times haha.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:59 AM   #21
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.......also Z-Rod to store the car with if not driving it for a few months I was told.
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Old 02-18-2015, 09:04 AM   #22
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Im surprised your lab thinks 2.91 is a SIGNIFICANTLY low TBN. Blackstone uses 1.0 as their threshold for used up oil.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:38 AM   #23
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Zrod 10w30 is fine for a DD. No need to change it unless your doing more than one race or a long race. hes saying that because the zinc might clog your cats in a 100,000 miles. You need Zinc for a cammed Camaro Zrod 10w30 or LS30 is the way to go.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:31 AM   #24
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Im surprised your lab thinks 2.91 is a SIGNIFICANTLY low TBN. Blackstone uses 1.0 as their threshold for used up oil.
This is true, minerals aside the TBN is what your looking for when the oil is used up, that and zinc levels or anti wear additives. With the 2.91 iron and 9500 miles I would change it, but going that long again is perfectly fine if your using the same oil. Iron levels are probably from the cam, change the oil and retest at 3000 for minerals.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:04 AM   #25
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Changed my oil yesterday, decided to give Z-Rod a shot. Sent off the second sample for the 5w 30 Amsoil Signature series to compare to my first signature series sample to see if all the negative signs were due to just being really used oil.

When I change out the Z-Rod, ill send a sample of that to see what it comes back as, just curious. Also, i dont know if its the Z-Rod, or just because its clean oil, but it seemed to quiet the valve train down a little. Ill let you know if it stays this quiet a few thousand miles later or what.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:23 AM   #26
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:03 PM   #27
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Well, of course after saying it quieted down after changing the oil, I get a continuous dull squeak on the way to work this morning. Havent had time to investigate but it doesnt really sound good. Praying its just a pulley or belt, cause I wouldnt have time to take it apart (and stop driving it) for 2 more weeks.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:39 PM   #28
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Well, of course after saying it quieted down after changing the oil, I get a continuous dull squeak on the way to work this morning. Havent had time to investigate but it doesnt really sound good. Praying its just a pulley or belt, cause I wouldnt have time to take it apart (and stop driving it) for 2 more weeks.
How long before you get the oil sample results?

Man talk about bad timing!
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