High Performance Oil Comparison Test

[vroomapunk]

So, I am installing a cam in my car and have read about a couple of oil pump failures, which Im not all that worried about because I am putting a melling in.

But I have seen a lot of different opinions on oil. This thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324731, sparked a debate mostly about Mobil 1 being awful, and gibbs, amsoil, red line, etc being great. As well as zinc content, etc.

So, I looked around Amsoil's website, and found a 3rd party independent study comparing nearly every brand mentioned in that thread and the results are crazy. Mobil 1 was recommended by a few people, and experts that I know, but didnt do all that well in the test.

So I thought I would post the pdf link, and the tests so others could see. Its obviously recommended to use a premium oil when installing a cam, so this is good info for all the cammed guys out there.

PDF: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

So I emailed Amsoil technical services and asked the following questions:


"I will be installing a roller cam in my 2012 6.2L Ls3 SS camaro and Im trying to figure out which oil to use. Your website indicates Z-Rod is for older engines, are there any downsides to the zinc , etc. The car will be daily driven about 13k miles per year (85% highway), with very few, probably 3-5 track days a year.

I have read about stuck oil check valve issues, and I am trying to avoid this. Which oil should I use?"


He replied with this:

"Chris;

There are a couple of things to consider in your selection. The Z-Rod oil contains a high level of ZDDP (Zinc). This provides excellent anti wear, but can clog the catalytic converter over time. In addition to the anti wear additive benefit, the Z-Rod is better able to protect the engine in cases where the car is infrequently driven or only for relatively short trips (under about 20 miles), when driven.

Byron Selbrede
Technical Services

AMSOIL INC.
ADDRESS: 1 AMSOIL Center, Superior, WI 54880
E-MAIL:bselbrede@amsoil.com
PHONE:715-392-7101
FAX:715-392-3097"


And this:

"Chris;

Based on your information, I think I would use the 5W30 Signature Series Oil most of the year and maybe change to the Z-Rod for the races. The stuck oil check valve is caused by using inferior quality oil that produces sludge and deposits. The AMSOIL will avoid this problem.

Byron Selbrede
Technical Services

AMSOIL INC.
ADDRESS: 1 AMSOIL Center, Superior, WI 54880
E-MAIL:bselbrede@amsoil.com
PHONE:715-392-7101
FAX:715-392-3097"

Im bored at work so I decided to post these:

[Avenging Orange]

Personally, I just use a good dino oil after a cam swap. I mean, Amsoil and Red Line are excellent oils, but with the roller cam, zinc isnt that big if an issue. Its been said synthetics are not good for cam break in.....

[376LS3]

I use conventional Valvoline VR1. Its not in stores anymore so you have to order it, which is the down part. Sure, zinc is said to clog cats. But in my opinion, Id rather replace $200 cats, then a $10,000 engine. With the aggressive ramps rates of today's cams, they're just as abrasive as flat tappet cams. Zinc helps with that.

[BigBlue2010]

This should be a sticky at the top of this page. Hint, hint.

[wakespeak]

You need an oil with a high HTHS, meaning the film stays in place under high performance conditions. An oil with an HTHS around 3.5 or higher. There are 30 grades that perform at that level, but hard to find. Basically the European spec'd oils such as Mobil 1 ESP or Pennzoil Ultra Euro have HTHS > 3.6 and are 5w-30. They are both designed for engines that sustain 100mph. The zinc additives only kick in when the oil film breaks down. The downside to the Euro oils is that our fuel is dirtier and the Euro oils are less tolerant of that, so don't go past 5K. They also have low zinc levels (because not needed).

I have used Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel truck in our Land Rover Discovery with excellent results. It has an old style flat tappet cam. That oil has about the same zinc levels as an SL oil. That is a 5w-40 oil however. It is rated for gasoline engine use (SL rated I think).

Another option is Mobil 1 0w-40, which barely is a 40, and performs very well. HTHS of 3.8 and the 0w cold flow should be easier on the oil pump. BTW the cats have passed smog test at 115k miles.

Personally I am reviewing the Dexos 2 recommendations, which should apply to the Camaro in Europe. I don't know if any internal changes are done to the Euro spec 6.2, but I highly doubt it.

[Way Too Fast Motorsports]

Amsoil Signature Series all the way!

[RubyCamaro]

Someone please translate results: What is best for weekend warriors/sometimes drag racers?for newbies.

[rberns]

Ruby,

When we replace the cam with something more aggressive we want oil that has a high level of zinc additive such as Amsoil zrod, Joe Gibbs etc. However if your stock Amsoil Signature series is a great oil too. Since I don't race my car I can't provide any feedback for that topic.

[JCunningham]

ruby being you have a v6 i assume your not cammed. just run any good full synthetic 5w-30. Amsoil signature is over kill So id just use that. I use Amsoil in everything.

[Mouse6.2]

I just installed the Signature Series 0w-30 in my SS. The UOA for the AMSOIL OE that was in it came back in great shape as well.

[GONIF]

Good info ,but they left out the Mobil1 0-40 European formula that has higher ZZDP . It is the best Mobile 1 for wear . And a real bargain . Walmart $22.56 for 5 quart jug .

[klaatu barada nikto]

Originally Posted by GONIF

Good info ,but they left out the Mobil1 0-40 European formula that has higher ZZDP . It is the best Mobile 1 for wear . And a real bargain . Walmart $22.56 for 5 quart jug .

I agree 100%. All i use.

[sho928]

I use the 0-40 European M1 oil as well.

All 5 of my cars are overhead cam thus wear is no issue (much lower contact pressures).

I am toying with the idea of getting this 427 crate motor to put in a 2010 Camaro

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU

Due to the aggressive cam and resulting super high contact pressures I would only use Red Line 10-60W. IMO opinion that is what is needed to get much past 50,000 miles before the cam lobes are worn through the thin induction hardened cam lobe surface.

In designing the LS7 GM wanted to use forged pistons, but since using the Dexos 5-30 was a corporate requirement, the designers could not make it work.
Even though they used titanium rods the forged piston's greater weight caused the oil film strength to be exceed and spun bearings with the Dexos 5-30.

The solution was to have Mahle design a special light weight hyperutectic piston.

IMO GM should have just specified a 15-50 M1 and used forged pistons, that is the oil all LT1's must use if taken to track