02-17-2012, 08:23 PM | #71 |
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I had a feeling that was the case. I also talked to an ASE cert friend of mine at work and he said the same thing.... Whenever I wake up ill be attempting to get this going. I can only find one jack stand But I should be able to do it....
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02-17-2012, 08:29 PM | #72 |
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Drives: 2013 Sonic RS MT Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saint Augustine FL
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Click image to see build thread. PQ - "the love of cars. It's a boys first step toward manhood and a mans last hold on boyhood." Fbodfather - "We do not want to use the Z28 moniker on a car that does not deserve this hallowed name." The_Blur - "Let's not confuse competitors with equals." |
02-18-2012, 09:28 AM | #73 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Auto Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fl
Posts: 1,164
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A couple of years ago I installed a full kooks long tube and 3" pipe system and soon found the sectional system would not remain in position very long before it would settle and make contact with the tunnel brace. Subsequently I added a Hotchkis chassis max with the spacer kit that corrected the problem for a while. Eventually the 3" pipes settled enough to again start making contact with tunnel brace section of the chassis max. I concluded the only way the sectional exhaust sections would remain in the desired postion would be to tack weld the sections. I wanted the exhaust system to remain sectional and able to be removed in pieces so I did the following. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit the size of the tunnel brace. I cut strips of 2" header wrap that I wrapped around the plywood and affixed by stapling the underside. I installed the header wrapped plywood shim on the top side of the tunnel brace and affixed it with tie wrap. It does the job nicely and allows me to keep the exhaust system removeable in sections. If you don't care that the exhaust pipes remain sectional, then just raise the pipes up about an inch above the tunnel brace and tack weld them in position.
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02-18-2012, 10:05 AM | #74 |
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Ok here's an update... I got everything on its all bolted up and ready to go.
Sorry for the quality on some... It was taken with my phone... Any questions?
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02-18-2012, 10:38 AM | #75 | |
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Quote:
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02-18-2012, 01:15 PM | #76 |
Drives: 1981 Z28 // 2010 1SS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
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Good info from both of you guys.
Technically the plywood is a non-compliant fix because it is a combustible within a few inches of a surface temp above 160F. According to the gas code here in Canada . I wouldn't be too concerned though. Especially since its wrapped! Good idea. Sinister, thanks for doing that. Does your infrared gauge detect the max surface temperature of the exhaust or potentially just a layer of air around it? I've never used one. I'm just surprised the temps are so low. I still imagine red lining the engine will cause a large spike in the temps there that could melt the tape. I guess the worst thing that can happen at this point is you check the tape after driving the car for awhile and find that its partially melted. Not likely going to start a fire. That tape probably doesn't burn anyway. |
02-18-2012, 01:42 PM | #77 | |
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Quote:
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02-18-2012, 02:54 PM | #78 |
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I wonder if I could just use the F1 tape and the header wrap on the brace itself??? use the tape to hold the wrap???
Mine isn't rattling any more but...
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Click image to see build thread. PQ - "the love of cars. It's a boys first step toward manhood and a mans last hold on boyhood." Fbodfather - "We do not want to use the Z28 moniker on a car that does not deserve this hallowed name." The_Blur - "Let's not confuse competitors with equals." |
02-18-2012, 02:57 PM | #79 |
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You could... I'm sure every little bit helps.... Certainly wont hurt....
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02-24-2012, 08:28 PM | #80 |
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Drives: 2012 Camaro SS 45th Anniversary Edi Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rochester, New York
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good post
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