Cam recommendations please

[Randy V.B.]

It’s a possibility that it could be a different issue other then the tune for the cam. The data logging didn’t show anything. The car only has 18000 miles on it. I put new plugs and msd wires as suggested by someone. Also two sets of O2 sensors because that that was suggested that was the problem by the original tuner. This has been an extremely expensive simple cam change lol.
Cam specs are 229/224. 629/615 112 lsa.


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[acammer]

Originally Posted by Randy V.B.

It’s a possibility that it could be a different issue other then the tune for the cam. The data logging didn’t show anything. The car only has 18000 miles on it. I put new plugs and msd wires as suggested by someone. Also two sets of O2 sensors because that that was suggested that was the problem by the original tuner. This has been an extremely expensive simple cam change lol.
Cam specs are 229/224. 629/615 112 lsa.


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I think you mean a 229/244 on a 112. That would be about 12.5 degrees of overlap at .050". That's significant, but certainly nothing wild and should be very well behaved when tuned properly.

I think you're tuners are jerking you around, and you need to get connected with somebody, ideally in person, that knows what they are doing.

[Randy V.B.]

Ya I’m not sure what is going on. That’s the worst of where I live there is no one for hundreds of miles that does the tuning thing. I think I’m going to have to learn it myself. That’s why I done all the mechanical part myself because I don’t trust anybody to do the job properly. The car works perfect otherwise and made good power on the dyno. It made 460 on a Mustang dyno and doesn’t miss a beat when run hard. Just the small issue of drivability.


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[acammer]

Originally Posted by Randy V.B.

Ya I’m not sure what is going on. That’s the worst of where I live there is no one for hundreds of miles that does the tuning thing. I think I’m going to have to learn it myself. That’s why I done all the mechanical part myself because I don’t trust anybody to do the job properly. The car works perfect otherwise and made good power on the dyno. It made 460 on a Mustang dyno and doesn’t miss a beat when run hard. Just the small issue of drivability.


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I really enjoy doing my own tuning. It's a bit intimidating to get into, but there is a lot of good information out on the web. I have a few guesses as to where you'd want to start. Get the injection timing good, make sure that low load/low rpm spark advance is reasonable and smooth, and the M6 spark smoothing is off. Those were all major influences in taking my drive-ability (with a whole bunch more overlap than your cam) from reasonably but not great to very, very good. HPTuners is the way to go.

[acutron42]

Sorry to hear that your resources are limited but this is a great place to be. It is quiet @ work today & I have time to poke around. Here is one example of what you will find on the HP tuners forum. There is a ton of info on this issue.

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...lp-for-Bucking

[FasNuf]

Hey Randy, I'm sure it's probably not what you want to hear, but go get yourself HP Tuners MPVI2. I got the standard one with the AEM 30-0334 OBDII wideband and start learning to tune. It'll cost you about $300USD for MPVI2, $100USD for credits for your car and $200USD for the wideband, but you'll have ther ability to test out these guys theories and be able to flash it back to where you have it now if you dont like the results,. I did this after my local tuner did my tune and I realized it was not done very well at all. I wish I would've just started with it myself instead of going to the tuner because now the car doesn't even run his tune and it's better than before. It is a steep learning curve, but it's fun at the same time and will save you money down the line especially if you mod more.

[Randy V.B.]

Thanks so much for the suggestions. As much as I don’t want to I think I’m going to have to go that route. I was hoping it was just going to be a simple tune and everything be perfect, guess that’s wishful thinking lol


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[silversleeper]

I don't know, try this? Could be vacuum leak, dirty airflow sensor MSD wires, plug porcelein cracked or other random things but this is free DIY and might stop what bothers you. Edit: There were a few posts above me by the time I opened and edited the tune for a pic. I was also thinking to add some spark retard on light load decel in the complaint rpm range but didn't feel like taking the time (oops pun) to find that timing table.

[Randy V.B.]

I have smoked the engine looking for vacuum leaks and found nothing, that was one of the suggestions. Along with plugs and wires. And replaced the maf sensor. It was new with my z28 intake but I tried my original


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[silversleeper]

That's why they weren't high on the probability list. I didn't make that clear that I think it's in the minor tuning adjustment not new parts.
Also I don't think it needs a major re tune. What I posted might correct it, or what acammer mentioned about retarding light load decel timing is my second guess. Third is the light load enrichment fuel but that's not the first things I'd look at. First I'd effectively turn off the decel fuel cutoff crap which might totally resolve your issue. Don't even need to use a wideband and data log to try that. Yes you need to be able to write and flash your tune. SAVE any original and closest to what you want tunes before you experiment. By the way to change that value you type e.g. 90 in the block at the top and push =while the cursor is at the box you're wanting to change.

On my older HP tuners non-pro it's the buttonology anyhow.

[Randy V.B.]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

That's why they weren't high on the probability list. I didn't make that clear that I think it's in the minor tuning adjustment not new parts.
Also I don't think it needs a major re tune. What I posted might correct it, or what acammer mentioned about retarding light load decel timing is my second guess. Third is the light load enrichment fuel but that's not the first things I'd look at. First I'd effectively turn off the decel fuel cutoff crap which might totally resolve your issue. Don't even need to use a wideband and data log to try that. Yes you need to be able to write and flash your tune. SAVE any original and closest to what you want tunes before you experiment. By the way to change that value you type e.g. 90 in the block at the top and push =while the cursor is at the box you're wanting to change.

On my older HP tuners non-pro it's the buttonology anyhow.

Thanks for the insight. What you have mentioned sounds exactly what would be needed to be looked at. On decel it seems almost like if your were tapping the gas with your toe and causing a slight nudge which with the slack in the drivetrain to bump. And the light load is where I’m getting the nudge. As soon as you get on it even a little it goes away but that’s hard to do going down a hill lol. Again thanks for the suggestions. I need to spend some money and get a HP tuners for myself and try it.


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[FasNuf]

Some call that "trailer hitching" because it feels like your pulling a trailer downhill and it's pushing back. Try Googling that and put HPTuners in the search too
Yea, maybe too much advance in that cell.

[Randy V.B.]

That’s exactly what it feels like right to a tee.


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[go_go_gadget88]

I'm really surprised that a major vendor/tuner here said the TSP stage 2 is "too big to tune properly". If nobody could tune it, I really doubt they would sell many.

I have the stage 3, so even bigger, and while it did take a couple stabs, my tuner got it sorted out quite a bit. Went from an aggravating amount of bucking in the 1800-2200 range, to just a little bit of surge from the cam profile in a narrow range. I still think there is a bit we can tweak still too.

BUT, this was also having the tuner in the car collecting live data as we drove, and making changes when I stopped once in a while. I'm sure this would be a lot harder with a remote tune...but I would not take the word of anyone telling you that's just too wild of a cam to tame as 100% fact.