[weslp00]

Guys, need some help please.
Trying to install a set of Goodridge SS lines on my ‘18 SS.
Not got very far as I have an issue.
So I started on the rear and disconnected a rear hard line and rubber calliper line. Pulled the clip and removed the rubber calliper line.
Then I try to start the Goodridge fitting on the hard line tube nut and all goes well but the tube nut gets tighter before the hard line flare bottoms out in the fitting!
Not saying it won’t go further but are you supposed to wrench on these things to finish the install? The oem rubber line comes apart easy.
Threads are M10 x 1 as far as I’m aware so no mis matches there.
I just don’t wanna mess up the hard line tube nut as I have heard they are a bitch to renew.
Any ideas where I’m going wrong bow:

[Baddawg53]

Sounds like it might be starting to cross thread. When I installed mine I had to leave the clip out so I could get the right angle and screw it in by hand. You should not need a wrench until it's about seated, I'd check the threads and make sure it's aligned .

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

Sounds like it might be starting to cross thread. When I installed mine I had to leave the clip out so I could get the right angle and screw it in by hand. You should not need a wrench until it's about seated, I'd check the threads and make sure it's aligned .

Thanks for the reply Baddawg.
I hear you about finding the angle without the clip and starting by hand.
The issue is that the tube nut goes in ok by hand but goes tight before the brake tube flare hits the seat. Am I nearly there? Maybe one more turn?
I checked if I messed up by re installing the OE rubber line and it goes back fine.
I believe the tube nut threads are M10 x 1. But I am doubting that as I tried to run a standard M10 x 1 nut up it and it wouldnt engage.
Still confused.

[Katech_Zach]

So ironically enough, I have goodridge lines on my zl1 (ordered 3 years ago), fit with 0 issues, went right on.

As of late, we have ordered 2 pairs of goodridge lines, and they have an issue where the threads bottom out before the flared taper actually seats, so there must have been a bad batch of them at some point with manufacturing defects.

I'd give them a call

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

So ironically enough, I have goodridge lines on my zl1 (ordered 3 years ago), fit with 0 issues, went right on.

As of late, we have ordered 2 pairs of goodridge lines, and they have an issue where the threads bottom out before the flared taper actually seats, so there must have been a bad batch of them at some point with manufacturing defects.

I'd give them a call

Thanks for that Katech.
Today I managed to get an inverted flare to -3 adapter on the tube nut and it wasn’t easy but went on with a wrench just fine. So those Goodridge crimped lines could be an issue!
I will check the thread depth..

[cdb95z28]

It's not a Goodridge issue. I bought Speigler lines and had trouble with both rear flare nuts. Unless the GR and Speiglers are manufactured by the same facility. I got one to go ok with just a little bit of resistance. I confirmed the threads were ok on that one but the other one had that feeling of impending cross threading. I removed the OE flare nut and installed a new one and all was good. 2022 SS 1LE

[kropscamaro16]

no issues with mine but i had a shop install them lol i dont trust myself

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It's not a Goodridge issue. I bought Speigler lines and had trouble with both rear flare nuts. Unless the GR and Speiglers are manufactured by the same facility. I got one to go ok with just a little bit of resistance. I confirmed the threads were ok on that one but the other one had that feeling of impending cross threading. I removed the OE flare nut and installed a new one and all was good. 2022 SS 1LE

Ye I hear you on that man..it’s like impending doom! Am I cross threading this or what! But all of a sudden it bottoms out.
Hey but I haven’t finished …..gotta do the fronts yet..ouch.
Could it be a case of the factory over torquing those brake line nuts just a lil bit and distorting the threads? And not a fault of the after market stuff!
What sort of a bitch is it to change the tube nut on the flare?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by weslp00

Ye I hear you on that man..it’s like impending doom! Am I cross threading this or what! But all of a sudden it bottoms out.
Hey but I haven’t finished …..gotta do the fronts yet..ouch.
Could it be a case of the factory over torquing those brake line nuts just a lil bit and distorting the threads? And not a fault of the after market stuff!
What sort of a bitch is it to change the tube nut on the flare?

Haha, yeah, worst feeling in the world. Mine was tight right off the bat so I didn't go further to mess things up. I've been wrenching on cars and in industry for many decades so I didn't sweat it with changing the flare nut. Not much room to make the new flare but it was doable. I bought a new GM flare nut right from the dealer and went on the Spiegler with zero issue.

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Haha, yeah, worst feeling in the world. Mine was tight right off the bat so I didn't go further to mess things up. I've been wrenching on cars and in industry for many decades so I didn't sweat it with changing the flare nut. Not much room to make the new flare but it was doable. I bought a new GM flare nut right from the dealer and went on the Spiegler with zero issue.

Well I’m gonna try and use the rest of the pre crimpted Goodridge stuff on the front. Any issues I will try for another vendor. Don’t fancy wrecking those tube nuts
Weird how you get to feel that moment on a bad threat when it’s gonna get stuck with no return.. ouch!
Will let you know when and if it all goes good!

[easttxss]

I had this same thing happen on the extended rear brake line from the lift kit on my old Jeep Wagoneer. The seller said the solution was a small copper washer that fit into the flare fitting. I never got the washer and never installed the line, it's still in my tool box where I put it 20 yrs ago.

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by easttxss

I had this same thing happen on the extended rear brake line from the lift kit on my old Jeep Wagoneer. The seller said the solution was a small copper washer that fit into the flare fitting. I never got the washer and never installed the line, it's still in my tool box where I put it 20 yrs ago.

Hey thats a good idea.. and way to avoid the problem. Just leave it all in the box and forget about it!
No way!.. Im gonna finish up at the weekend and see what happens

[easttxss]

Originally Posted by weslp00

Hey thats a good idea.. and way to avoid the problem. Just leave it all in the box and forget about it!
No way!.. Im gonna finish up at the weekend and see what happens

My point was that Goodridge's solution was to install a small copper washer inside the flare, but I could not comment on the effectiveness of it because I didn't do it. It just gives you another avenue to pursue.

[weslp00]

Originally Posted by easttxss

My point was that Goodridge's solution was to install a small copper washer inside the flare, but I could not comment on the effectiveness of it because I didn't do it. It just gives you another avenue to pursue.

Thanks for the heads up easttxss.. I am all ears with advice. I will bear that in mind about the cone washer. That does make sense as a repair for a flare seat.
See how I get on when I finish tomorrow..hopefully weather permitting!