[cengell]

Originally Posted by MrChevyDC3

Let it sit unplugged for a hot 30, rechecked my connections, retucked the box. Followed start up process to the T, let it idle at OEM for a few, didn't Blip the throttle. Took it around the block...

OEM felt like OEM...

Stopped, changed to CF 3, didn't really notice a difference. Kinda felt as if the car rowed through the gears quicker? Could've just been me, being eager to feel a diff.

Stopped, changed to CF5, Felt a diff now. Still nothing commendable, but felt comfortable and peppy. I could blip the throttle and the car would jump, like my old Nova w/ 468 BB.

By then I was back home, feeling good about life again. Ready to go out and try CF 7 or 9, and then to the sporting modes. Hoping that I see NO limp codes or anything...

Really good to hear! Not sure if you have the V6 or V8 but the LU9 Just for fun but on my V6 I will never use it, but I am liking SP5 maybe SP4?

Christopher

[MrChevyDC3]

Wish I could return with an awesome story of burnouts and neck snapping holeshots, but I have had buzzards luck.

Put it in CF8 to go to Lowe's, ran fine, had me very eager to try the sport modes. I had fun for about 4 miles, and threw a code in Lowes parking lot, had to limp to a safe parking space. Ran in and bought a 10mm ratchet set or whatever, unhooked the cable and went back in for my paint to be mixed and to get my other supplies. Came back out, reconnected, started the car, dropped the top and said forget it I'm gonna cruise home soft and slow, disconnect it and read up on it some more. Made it about 1 mile down the road and went into limp mode

Mind you, the top is down, which made it more difficult to get to the batt terminal in the trunk.
Now I'm fuming.

Coast into a G station, pop trunk, start disconnecting neg term- encountered resistance- and SNAP, the fvckin nut/terminal screw sheard completely in two.
un. frickin. believable.


I was kickin myself in the azz hearing my wife in the background tellin me to stop messin with this car.

What do I do now? I can't start the car due to neg term loose, weird terminal connecter sheared in half, top down, 5 miles from home...

[donniedarko]

I just installed throttle controller.
Goods are as billed. My goodness what a difference.
Ludicrous is just that. I like Comfrot 9, or SP 1 for LA city driving.

The ECO 1 for valet drivers is a quasi valet mode too.

If anyone has a recommendation on how to do a more tidy install, or taping of the line Id appreciate any comments. The lightning plug is pretty trick.

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Thanks, everyone.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Mike, as you know, I'm a satisfied user of your modified 95mm LT5 throttle body, and now I'd like to ask a technical question about the Soler throttle controller.

It seems to me that the unit is powered from the pedal assembly itself, and according to the competition (no secret, it's Banks), this may pose a safety issue on cars that have too little power reserve on that circuit, causing a MIL and loss of pedal functionality, see the screenshot below. For this reason their product uses the OBD-II port to draw power from.

Does the Camaro have a similar exposure to this problem, say, via a razor thin safety margin on the connection your throttle controller is drawing power from? If yes, is your throttle controller safe, ie does it leave enough reserve on the circuit?

Thank you for your response in advance.

This important input was not yet answered.

I am also a customer of Mike, however, since buying the Controller and TB from him ~ 2 years ago, was not able to install it. Held up for a couple of personal reasons.

Anyway, now I was just about to go ahead and finally install it and came across this old post, which I believe should be answered.
Thanks for looking into this for the community and users/customers of the controller

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Mike, as you know, I'm a satisfied user of your modified 95mm LT5 throttle body, and now I'd like to ask a technical question about the Soler throttle controller.

It seems to me that the unit is powered from the pedal assembly itself, and according to the competition (no secret, it's Banks), this may pose a safety issue on cars that have too little power reserve on that circuit, causing a MIL and loss of pedal functionality, see the screenshot below. For this reason their product uses the OBD-II port to draw power from.

Does the Camaro have a similar exposure to this problem, say, via a razor thin safety margin on the connection your throttle controller is drawing power from? If yes, is your throttle controller safe, ie does it leave enough reserve on the circuit?

Thank you for your response in advance.

Great question, sorry I missed it.

Yes, it doesn't take much current at all for the ECM to call it a "short circuit", the threshold shown on the picture for Dodge is very similar to that of the latest Chevy's.

Now, let's put it in perspective (relative terms); how much is too much?

One could call 25mA razor-thin but the pedal sensors work at under 5mA, we are talking about 100's% so the razor-thin 25mA gives us a huge space to work on for we need much less than that to run either of our TC's.

If you make a device that will consume anything near or greater than that, you have to go power it somewhere else. I think this is why and it's been portrayed as an advantage.

The same is true for anything else, I'm sure you cannot draw any amount of current you want from the OBD2 port either, or similarly, one cannot do that at home either without tripping a breaker at some threshold amperage.

There's a limit for everything. You work under the limit and you are safe.

Also, some OBD2 devices are known for draining batteries, and that could be used as a scarecrow against any of those, but if a given company knows what they are doing there's no reason for them to drain your battery.

Thanks,

[Eldi Z]

Thanks Mike for answering the question.
So we are completely safe with a 5 x safety margin if I it understood correctly? (25mA reserve Vs. 5mA actual current draw from the Soler TC?)

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Thanks Mike for answering the question.
So we are completely safe with a 5 x safety margin if I it understood correctly? (25mA reserve Vs. 5mA actual current draw from the Soler TC?)

Correct, we are well under the max current threshold for the pedal assembly.

[arpad_m]

Thank you very much, Mike, your response and especially putting the question into perspective is appreciated.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC

Correct, we are well under the max current threshold for the pedal assembly.

Changing the TB size requires a tune to gain max performance. The tuner changes the tables in HPtuners and the stock tables/values are no longer valid. Every tuner tunes a bit different, how does your unit adjust to all these different tunes? I can see your unit working for your desired gains if they where on just stock vehicles and the tables/values remained the same but I don't see it working on a different tunes. (Tables/changed #) Correct me if I am wrong and I am just trying to understand your unit.

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Changing the TB size requires a tune to gain max performance. The tuner changes the tables in HPtuners and the stock tables/values are no longer valid. Every tuner tunes a bit different, how does your unit adjust to all these different tunes? I can see your unit working for your desired gains if they where on just stock vehicles and the tables/values remained the same but I don't see it working on a different tunes. (Tables/changed #) Correct me if I am wrong and I am just trying to understand your unit.

Our unit changes the pedal output, the tune tables then change our output. Our TC is variable, the Tune is fixed.

Total Change = Tune Factor x TC factor

So the total change is now variable too. I.e. if the tune is too much, you can scale down it with the TC, if it was too low you can scale it up with the TC.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC

Our unit changes the pedal output, the tune tables then change our output. Our TC is variable, the Tune is fixed.

Total Change = Tune Factor x TC factor

So the total change is now variable too. I.e. if the tune is too much, you can scale down it with the TC, if it was too low you can scale it up with the TC.

Do you have any test results? 60 feet times would be one example to see the unit in action.


With the increase of pedal output you would see your 60 feet/1/8/1/4 times improve with your unit, any test runs? Videos?

[Nitefall17]

Just remember, when they tune the car you have to disconnect the TC.
The TC will make it show a high pedal voltage value, putting car in limp mode.
When the tuning is done, put TC back in and all good.

[Nitefall17]

BlackbeastSS2

Get the new DLX TC and you will not stop grinning.
The TC just just clean up your throttle response and tailor to how you want the car to react. On the new DLX the setting SP5 is a one to one like having a throttle cable.
That makes it worth the money. I have never did test or videos of my 60 foots,but I would guess its good for 4 or 5 tenths. Its like highend guns with trigger jobs,the lighter and shorter the reset the quicker you can shoot.