[DonM]

I did some searching and found the wiring diagram(s) for the right and left taillights/turn signals/brake light, etc

The previous owner of my '17 put Spyder sequential headlights on the car. I watched a video of Phastak installing these lights and the did not cause the hyper flash.

The 'other guy' also put aftermarket taillights - with sequential amber turn signals. Since I saw the headlights didn't cause the hyper flash, I ASSUMED it was that the taillights didn't have a resistor. So I watched a video from Headlight Revolutions about how to wire a resistor into the tails to stop the hyper flashing.

Looks simple enough, but when I pulled my taillight, there's about 8 wires in the harness. There also IS a resistor, but it's wired way different than the video shows.

So I found the schematics, but they made it all the more confusing ... two ground wires and the turn signal also has two wires - one for the light and one for feedback??

According to the video, you are supposed to jump the power wire to the ground wire with the resistor, but with all those wires, my brain is fried.

The hyper flash is irritating as all hell, and I don't want to "Learn to live with it."

[cellsafemode]

are you sure the front turn signals aren't out or perhaps converted to LED and used a crappy load resistor (or cheap 'canbus' light) that has burned up and no longer functioning ?

The way our cars detect bad lights is they have a little circuit board that compares the current or resistance to a pre-fixed known (not programmable) and if it differs, it triggers hyperflashing. So you have to simulate the original lighting's load in the circuits (this unfortunately means one of the benefits of led's (lower power usage) will not be realized.

So you should have in front mounted led turn signals, a load resistor Something high power with a heatsink and this would be in parallel to the turn signal light. So you'd wire it between that bulb's positive and negative leads. Then heat paste it (thermally conductive glue) to the body of the car somewhere.

for the rear, two things might be found. 1. A high ohm (low wattage) resistor across the positive and negative circuit for the brake lights. Brake lights dont need the load resistor but the car bleeds power while they should be off and will look like they're on all the time without this little resistor to bleed that voltage a bit so the led's dont activate when they're not supposed to. The turn signals need the load resistors similar to the front. These will be bigger resistors and be between the positive and negative of just the turn signal fixture inputs.

Sometimes people just let these things hang. But if you have them overheat, they can start having a higher resistance value and lose their ability to serve as load resistors. So you'd have to replace the resistor. I always glue mine to the body of the car to function as a heat sink for them.

TLDR:
these special lights you have did not hyperflash before so it would stand to reason that you dont need to add anything (if the lights are all working otherwise). Rather, you would be checking and likely replacing the already existing resistors.


I would verify your front turn signal lights are not led bulbs. Especially the "canbus" kind that include the resistor within the led light itself. These will heat up excessively and potentially damage the resistor or leds over time and can eventually cause the car to trigger hyperflashing.

[cellsafemode]

if you want, you can check the resistors with a multimeter before totally replacing. Load resistors need to sink a decent amount of wattage to simulate incandescent bulbs. So if you measure resistance much higher than 10 ohms or so, that's your reason. Check both the lower resistance one (if they differ) is the good one and the other needs to be replaced with a similar value.

If you find that your front blinkers are led ..and likely some "canbus" kind to avoid having to wire in a load resistor external...then i'd just assume those are bad first.

first thing i'd do is replace the front led bulbs (assuming they are led) with plain cheap incandescent bulbs and see if the hyperflashing disappears. Then, if so, buy new led ones. I stay away from the "canbus" bulbs because while they are easier to install, they consolidate the heat too much in too small a place to dissipate for the electronics in the bulb. So their lifespan is shorter.

on the rear lights, assuming this hyperflashing behavior is new, I would not suggest that you need to add anything new to this circuit. Instead you are hunting down either the existing load resistors and replacing them (in the case of canbus front lights, you may not have any visual indication they are bad until replacing them with regular bulbs to see if the issue goes away)

[DonM]

The front signals are working and are LED, what I'm going on is based on the video done by Phastek that those aren't the cause.

When I first got the car, the DRLs under the headlights didn't work, just the vertical LEDs on the lower part of each side of the bumper. I DID get those to work (at the cost of the driver's side vertical light) so now I have1 light out in front, but it looks SO MUCH better with the other DRLs on. I'm so done right now, I'm going to an auto wiring specialist shop to have them take a look. They should have the tools & experience to diagnose what's going on.

[DonM]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

first thing i'd do is replace the front led bulbs (assuming they are led) with plain cheap incandescent bulbs and see if the hyperflashing disappears. Then, if so, buy new led ones. I stay away from the "canbus" bulbs because while they are easier to install, they consolidate the heat too much in too small a place to dissipate for the electronics in the bulb. So their lifespan is shorter.

on the rear lights, assuming this hyperflashing behavior is new, I would not suggest that you need to add anything new to this circuit. Instead you are hunting down either the existing load resistors and replacing them (in the case of canbus front lights, you may not have any visual indication they are bad until replacing them with regular bulbs to see if the issue goes away)

Not an option to replace w/incandescent bulbs and since both headlights and taillights were installed before I bought the car, I have no idea how long it's been going on.