[Fernz]

Replacement Brake pads .What is your choice and why Ceramic , Metallic, or Semi ?
2016 Camaro V6

[Spaceme1117]

Originally Posted by Fernz

Replacement Brake pads .What is your choice and why Ceramic , Metallic, or Semi ?
2016 Camaro V6

For everyday driving, ceramic. Low dust and excellent stopping power.

[Fernz]

Any specific brand you recommend or should I just stick to oem?

[whynotlikemike]

Originally Posted by Fernz

Any specific brand you recommend or should I just stick to oem?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZBR44...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

I just grabbed the PowerStop Z23 Evolution front and Rear drilled and slotted kit that comes with ceramic pads. I must say I really
Enjoy the smoothness of the braking power and also the very low almost no dust of the pads vs the OEM high squeal and dust. I am also currently during break in (less than 50 miles) but overall stopping power feels equal if not slightly better and less bitey more smooth.

[UnknownJinX]

For DDing, I concur the ceramic choice. It does everything better than semi-metallic except for braking performance and maybe price. A good set of ceramic pads can still give you all the stopping power you want on the street, and not to mention, tires also play a big role in stopping distance. Tires get overlooked a lot when people talk about braking distance.

In performance driving, then semi-metallic or even full metallic are better just for that extra bit of performance.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

For everyday driving, ceramic. Low dust and excellent stopping power.

Not all ceramics are equal. I'd avoid any of the inexpensive ceramics you're likely to find at your local PepAdvanceZone kinds of stores.


Norm

[Fernz]

What are your thoughts on R1 Concepts https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_ca...+Optimum_OEp++ good or nah?

[FarmerFran]

Originally Posted by Fernz

Replacement Brake pads .What is your choice and why Ceramic , Metallic, or Semi ?
2016 Camaro V6

As I have learned and as I am feel like I remember Probst saying, if you change the pads - relearn the car! The factory pads are super grippy and anything less, well, is less. Not saying they do not work and work well, just saying.

EDIT and being in CA I assume you are in traffic and need to make panic stops (do not BS me) so just saying again - learn the new pads

[DarkKnyte]

You may find this reading relevant:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/disc...des-explained/

Brake pad fiction is actually standardized, if not advertised. In my experience, OEM pads are typically EE, and sometimes ED -- i.e. junk.

It is impossible to find out what pads are rated until you physically look at them. It's not advertised anywhere, and the best resource has been other people that compiled data.

I purchased Powerstop Z36 Cabon Fiber/Ceramic pads front and rear. The fronts are rated FF, and I was pretty happy about that, but the rear's never showed up and went out of stock. So I ordered a set of EBC Ultimax 2 pads, and the wrong pads were packed into the box -- additionally amazon ran out of stock on that too. I reached out to EBC, and after a phone call, plus sending some pictures, they overnighted me a set of EBC Orange pads for my Jeep. Those are rated FG.

They definitely stop better than OEM, and have basically no fade. I use them for towing and they work awesome. The EBC orange pads do throw out some dust, however, the power stops are very clean.

As to FarmerFran's advice, I feel like it's more about having new rotors than the OEM pads being 'grippier' especially since they are typically rated lower. Nobody (around here) seems to turn rotors anymore, but if you don't want to buy new rotors with your pads, you can break the glaze with a good flapwheel and some patience.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by DarkKnyte

You may find this reading relevant:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/disc...des-explained/

Brake pad fiction is actually standardized, if not advertised. In my experience, OEM pads are typically EE, and sometimes ED -- i.e. junk.

That's for OE and OE replacement in order to meet edge code friction ranges. One letter is for low temperatures, the other at some hot temperature to give a crude idea about temperature sensitivity.

SAE J866 Friction Designations (Brake Pad Edge Codes)
Friction Coefficient Code
Up to 0.15 C
Over 0.15 to 0.25 D
Over 0.25 to 0.35 E
Over 0.35 to 0.45 F
Over 0.45 to 0.55 G
Over 0.65 H


Actual values of mu (friction coefficient) and in some cases curves of mu vs temperature are available from pad mfrs such as Hawk, Carbotech, G-loc, Ferodo, and Raybestos.

Hawk's non-5.0 version of HPS comes in at about 0.38 . . .barely into the 'F' category. And it's claimed to have better stopping power than OE (I'm assuming some overall average of OE here). Disappointing bite in my experience.




Norm

[dpevans]

Not sure if you have changed pads yet but if you do a few pointers on the back. Unhook the negative on the battery, before you squeeze the back caliper pull the ebrake motor assembly off and then take a 5mm allen and stick it in the hole and you can release the pressure on the pads. I couldn't get the caliper off without releasing some of the pressure from the ebrake. I also figured out when you put them back on make sure the hole slot lines up on the inner pad as most do and then with the 5mm allen tighten up the ebrake just snug enough so the pin stays in the slot before you put the motor back on. the fronts are a pain, the backing plates on the pads wanted to stick to calipers and I really had to work to get them off. It's like they use adhesive at the factory.

[ctrlz]

Powerstop z26 ceramics. Got mine from amazon.
I found the stock semi-metallics were chewing up my rotors.

[BluinSC]

Im running the Street HP5 5.0 from Hawk for the last year. No real issues. Can be a little noisy if you haven't driven in a while, but otherwise fine.