[IneedAZ]

If you are cammed and use HPtuners can u post a screen shot of your rolling idle table. The other thing I wanted to know is what your have your Dynamic Airflow enable/disable rpm set at.

Thanks

[Baddawg53]

Cammed 2017 SS, M6 so I don't know what the difference would be.

[IneedAZ]

thanks for the pics...I take it by the pics you are MAF only. Looking at your Rolling Idle pic, are you commanding 800rpm when standing still?

[Baddawg53]

Yes, it's just MAF. Due to idle issues I've been debating enabling the speed density and tuning that. And yes again, the idle set point is 800 RPM. Had to adjust the virtual torque tables to actually get it to idle there. It was low, like 675-700, and it was pulling a lot of timing.

I've had this code keep popping up every now and then, think it was P0506, idle rpm too low, even after I got it to idle right where its set at.

[IneedAZ]

I just started tuning my VVe tables. Real PIA...lot of work..I decided not to do the full range. Stock has the SD enable/disable 4k/3800 rpm and i lowered it by half.

Reason i asked about the rolling rpm was i had an issue where as i came to a stop the rpm dipped then came back up. I think i have that ok now.

My big issue now is trying to find out why my Wideband says im 20 to30% lean at idle. My VVe log says im rich and my MAF says im good. Makes no sense!!
When i get home today i want to do a WB calibration and then check the numbers again. I tried loading old tunes in that were spot on at idle showing 1.0 lambda and even those tunes show me lean now. That is why i am thinking its the sensor. Also read that if i have a exhaust leak on that bank it will make me show lean at idle. I did have a small leak at the collector that i though i fixed that i will revisit to see if its back. I do hear a ticking that could be the leak again.

[Baddawg53]

I had/have the same idle dip issue. When I tuned the virtual torque table it helped that some also, not perfect but better. The issue is about 90% gone I'd say. I've read quite a few people have similar issues when putting a cam in these cars. There was a video on goat rope garage that covered it and it made a lot of sense.

[cmitchell17]

My dynamic airflow enable/disable is 100% stock and so is my rolling idle speed and multiplier, except that its changed from the stock 575 rpm values in the warmed up range to 625 since I raised my stock idle speed.

The exhaust leak could defiantly have something to do with it, but I am coming to the conclusion we just have to live with these stupid drivability issues, I don't think we have what we need in HP Tuners and access to the right tables in the software to fix these things.

I have the same issue and have tried so much to try to fix it. Its like anytime there is a blip of the throttle and its enough to disengage idle mode and rev up a little (maybe around 1000rpms) when you let off the accelerator and when it goes back it to idle mode it dips down too low, like 450rpms or so for half a second or so before it corrects back.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

My dynamic airflow enable/disable is 100% stock and so is my rolling idle speed and multiplier, except that its changed from the stock 575 rpm values in the warmed up range to 625 since I raised my stock idle speed.

The exhaust leak could defiantly have something to do with it, but I am coming to the conclusion we just have to live with these stupid drivability issues, I don't think we have what we need in HP Tuners and access to the right tables in the software to fix these things.

I have the same issue and have tried so much to try to fix it. Its like anytime there is a blip of the throttle and its enough to disengage idle mode and rev up a little (maybe around 1000rpms) when you let off the accelerator and when it goes back it to idle mode it dips down too low, like 450rpms or so for half a second or so before it corrects back.

How long did it take u to dial in the VVe?

[Baddawg53]

My idle problems are only moving, sitting still it returns to idle perfectly. The issue is pretty much gone, and my low speed driveability is greatly improved, the virtual torque table really made a huge difference.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

How long did it take u to dial in the VVe?

I would say about 2 weeks probably, the hardest part is that it just seems like you're going in circles sometimes and you can never get proper convergence. Then I sat there for another month reflashing over and over again trying to make it better without getting anywhere.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

the hardest part is that it just seems like you're going in circles sometimes and you can never get proper convergence. Then I sat there for another month reflashing over and over again trying to make it better without getting anywhere.

yep, between trying to keep it smooth and not having the calc coeff button cause chaos is stressful and time consuming.

[IneedAZ]

Another issue i am dealing with recently is the 800 to 1000 rpm range at idle is telling me i am 15-25% rich, but wideband is telling me i am 20 to 25% lean. I tried last night cal the WB sensor, which helped a little..few %. Next step is to raise the car and pull the sensor make sure no crap on it and double check the exhaust leak i had at the collector. Not sure why i am having exhaust leaks at the collectors on both sides. It is ARH going to an ARH exhaust. I tried putting Permatex hi temp exhaust sealer on it then the clamp, but still hear some leaks and maybe its fooling the sensor to show lean. I just bought some JB Weld exhaust bandage good to 1800 degrees i may try. I know it will be a pain if i ever have to take the exhaust apart, but hopefully i wont have to any time soon.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

Another issue i am dealing with recently is the 800 to 1000 rpm range at idle is telling me i am 15-25% rich, but wideband is telling me i am 20 to 25% lean. I tried last night cal the WB sensor, which helped a little..few %. Next step is to raise the car and pull the sensor make sure no crap on it and double check the exhaust leak i had at the collector. Not sure why i am having exhaust leaks at the collectors on both sides. It is ARH going to an ARH exhaust. I tried putting Permatex hi temp exhaust sealer on it then the clamp, but still hear some leaks and maybe its fooling the sensor to show lean. I just bought some JB Weld exhaust bandage good to 1800 degrees i may try. I know it will be a pain if i ever have to take the exhaust apart, but hopefully i wont have to any time soon.

Are you getting codes? I would always get a post catalyst fuel trim limit high code on my kooks with green cats, but I still think its just due to it not sealing, which you would think if you paid $2500+ for headers they could at least seal up correctly. I guess not haha

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

Another issue i am dealing with recently is the 800 to 1000 rpm range at idle is telling me i am 15-25% rich, but wideband is telling me i am 20 to 25% lean. I tried last night cal the WB sensor, which helped a little..few %. Next step is to raise the car and pull the sensor make sure no crap on it and double check the exhaust leak i had at the collector. Not sure why i am having exhaust leaks at the collectors on both sides. It is ARH going to an ARH exhaust. I tried putting Permatex hi temp exhaust sealer on it then the clamp, but still hear some leaks and maybe its fooling the sensor to show lean. I just bought some JB Weld exhaust bandage good to 1800 degrees i may try. I know it will be a pain if i ever have to take the exhaust apart, but hopefully i wont have to any time soon.

Stop using your wideband to check closed loop fueling (like idle, part throttle, etc) and just use the cars narrowband O2 sensors. Use the wideband for WOT tuning. Just my 2 cents.