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Old 10-15-2020, 08:21 PM   #1
gcrusco
 
Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE, 2014 ZL1
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Aftermarket Oil Cooler? Where?

2018 ZLE seeing oil temps of 290 and Coolant Temps of 230 on average during a Circuit of the Americas HPDE. I am seeing a drop of 10+ MPH on back straight as well, im assuming either do heat soak or the car pulling timing..?

Anyone using bigger or better oil coolers? and where are you putting them?

Last edited by gcrusco; 10-15-2020 at 08:23 PM. Reason: fix
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:25 PM   #2
Vtor_ZL1
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2019 has different underbody panels to promote enhanced air flow.. give those a try ?
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1 View Post
2019 has different underbody panels to promote enhanced air flow.. give those a try ?
You have a link by chance showing these part #s or thread talking about it?
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Old 10-15-2020, 09:45 PM   #4
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I believe they are covered here:


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518997


and


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517146


I recall they came up in the forum before.. if I find it again, I'll post it.


Here thread w 2018 part Number..



https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...light=84084634


I recall seeing 2019 pics from PDI and they had more channels molded into them.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:33 PM   #5
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Only new airflow part is for power steering as far as I know, I added that to my ZLE. Your coolant should not be doing that, oil either, unless maybe you’re driving in 100+ temps. Even then, coolant should be ok.

Cooling on track is one of the real strengths of the ZL1, world class. Are you driving in traffic, close to others blocking airflow to your grill?

Stock oil cooler should not and I think cannot be removed, it’s cooled by coolant circuit. You could run heater during sessions, that helps, but shouldnt need it.

Do you have a tune? If so that’s the problem.
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Old 10-15-2020, 11:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFV1LE View Post
Only new airflow part is for power steering as far as I know, I added that to my ZLE. Your coolant should not be doing that, oil either, unless maybe you’re driving in 100+ temps. Even then, coolant should be ok.

Cooling on track is one of the real strengths of the ZL1, world class. Are you driving in traffic, close to others blocking airflow to your grill?

Stock oil cooler should not and I think cannot be removed, it’s cooled by coolant circuit. You could run heater during sessions, that helps, but shouldnt need it.

Do you have a tune? If so that’s the problem.

Car has lower pulley and headers, triple heat exchangers from Weapon X. COTA track day was 97 degrees. By 5th session car was 20Mph down in back straight. Set a new PR first session. 4 seconds down by 5th session
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Old 10-15-2020, 11:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFV1LE View Post
Only new airflow part is for power steering as far as I know, I added that to my ZLE. Your coolant should not be doing that, oil either, unless maybe you’re driving in 100+ temps. Even then, coolant should be ok.

Cooling on track is one of the real strengths of the ZL1, world class. Are you driving in traffic, close to others blocking airflow to your grill?

Stock oil cooler should not and I think cannot be removed, it’s cooled by coolant circuit. You could run heater during sessions, that helps, but shouldnt need it.

Do you have a tune? If so that’s the problem.
These are pretty average temps at COTA for similar ZLEs with similar mods.. oil 280+ at least. just looking for a way to bring them down to maintain consistent times through the day
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Old 10-16-2020, 07:38 AM   #8
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heat soak is making the IAT2 (post supercharger) temp skyrocket and the ECM is pulling timing like crazy...it is over 10 mph between the best air vs the hottest air at VIR.
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcrusco View Post
Car has lower pulley and headers, triple heat exchangers from Weapon X. COTA track day was 97 degrees. By 5th session car was 20Mph down in back straight. Set a new PR first session. 4 seconds down by 5th session
I'll preface with I don't have any experience with this driving situation so I have not had to deal with the issues. What I will add is just what I've read about similar issues by Members of the Community that have had experience.

All of those mods' contribute to your issues. The car was validated under STOCK condition. You've altered the supercharger system, the cooling system, the ECM-tune, etc. with all of those mods'. By creating extra power, you've added more heat within the powertrain system and that heat bleeds into a lot of the rest of the car. Those heat exchangers, according to other Members (and I put it that way because they've found aftermarket heat exchangers, including radiators, to be detrimental - NOT brand specific either) don't do anything to help around a road course because they limit air flow and hold heat longer than the OEM set-up.

I wouldn't suggest that I know how to set a car up for anyone else, but it is my opinion that if you want OEM reliability and OEM optimization, you have to keep OEM parts and systems OEM. You've changed that with your mods'. It's your car, and I don't pretend to tell anyone else what they should do with their money, but there are Members still trying to figure this puzzle out, and your set-up is not effective in that regard, on a road course. If you want to beat on the car as Team Camaro demonstrates, then you have to run it the way they ENGINEERED it. That's the key - the car, as a system, is engineered. It is optimized. Unfortunately - your car is not, which is why you face the issues you do.

I only add that to be constructive. I'm not trying to sound like I'm attacking you in any way. This is the reality at this time though. There are others trying to find the solutions you are looking for, too, so I'd encourage you to keep checking in. Cooling system companies/manufacturers don't even have proper solutions yet, according to some Members. There's a magic the OEMs possess that we just don't yet have access to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
heat soak is making the IAT2 (post supercharger) temp skyrocket and the ECM is pulling timing like crazy...it is over 10 mph between the best air vs the hottest air at VIR.
It is also my understanding that the ECM, in differing years, also bounce spark control influence from IAT2s to MATs. I thought I read that later ECMs use MATs for spark influence.

Just for clarification
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Old 10-16-2020, 12:03 PM   #10
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I have a Callaway Supercharged SS and have had many heat issues on the track even when running the Mishimoto oil cooler. https://www.mishimoto.com/2016-chevr...ooler-kit.html
I am currently looking into the Improved Racing factory oil cooler/warmer delete kit. http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ter-p-930.html
The thought/science is that separating the oil and water cooling systems from one another will allow both to run cooler.

Another point that doesn't seem to be an issue because GM engineered the engine to use the factory cooler just fine, is that plate heat exchangers (factory cooler/warmer) have a very high pressure drop. Eliminating the factory plate exchanger should increase oil pressure which could be beneficial on track.
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:02 AM   #11
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Have you tried 100% distilled water? That will drop temps, but I don’t know by how much- have to test.

I wonder if the lower pulley is the issue. How much boost are you seeing on the first hot lap? Are you logging IAT2? I’d like to see peak straight speed on the first hot lap for your setup vs a car with full exhaust, porter blower, and a larger tb (but not pulley)..... and temps throughout the session with the no pulley setup.

If it’s a track only car, you could try removing the ac condenser. If you do, please report back with results. Same for distilled water.
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcrusco View Post
These are pretty average temps at COTA for similar ZLEs with similar mods.. oil 280+ at least. just looking for a way to bring them down to maintain consistent times through the day
I would keep it simple and look into an upgraded custom race radiator and a secondary Setrab oil cooler. Bigger/better radiators can make a difference, I did both on my 550 WHP Evo X and it would hold power lap after lap even on hot days at Auto Club Speedway Roval, hitting 160 at the end of the front straight through the end of session. This is with motor revving to 8700 RPM and a relatively large GTX 3576 turbo running 28 PSI boost. Oil would go to ~270 but coolant stayed in check.

I don't know where the Setrab can go or how to route it, maybe behind OEM coolers in fender in front of front wheels--not in front of the OEMs. A very wide low oil cooler along the bottom of front grill might work too, and not block radiator in any material way... like this one from Setrab: 52-12968-01 586COMV-5-2P.

With a big radiator, you have to do a lot of research and find someone truly good or you end up with higher temps--I'd call Pratt and Miller for a reco.

Last edited by SFV1LE; 10-17-2020 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 10-17-2020, 02:19 PM   #13
gcrusco
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
heat soak is making the IAT2 (post supercharger) temp skyrocket and the ECM is pulling timing like crazy...it is over 10 mph between the best air vs the hottest air at VIR.
Thats what I am thinking. Im trying to find a way to see if the car is pulling timing somehow due to high temps..?
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Old 10-17-2020, 02:23 PM   #14
gcrusco
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
I'll preface with I don't have any experience with this driving situation so I have not had to deal with the issues. What I will add is just what I've read about similar issues by Members of the Community that have had experience.

All of those mods' contribute to your issues. The car was validated under STOCK condition. You've altered the supercharger system, the cooling system, the ECM-tune, etc. with all of those mods'. By creating extra power, you've added more heat within the powertrain system and that heat bleeds into a lot of the rest of the car. Those heat exchangers, according to other Members (and I put it that way because they've found aftermarket heat exchangers, including radiators, to be detrimental - NOT brand specific either) don't do anything to help around a road course because they limit air flow and hold heat longer than the OEM set-up.

I wouldn't suggest that I know how to set a car up for anyone else, but it is my opinion that if you want OEM reliability and OEM optimization, you have to keep OEM parts and systems OEM. You've changed that with your mods'. It's your car, and I don't pretend to tell anyone else what they should do with their money, but there are Members still trying to figure this puzzle out, and your set-up is not effective in that regard, on a road course. If you want to beat on the car as Team Camaro demonstrates, then you have to run it the way they ENGINEERED it. That's the key - the car, as a system, is engineered. It is optimized. Unfortunately - your car is not, which is why you face the issues you do.

I only add that to be constructive. I'm not trying to sound like I'm attacking you in any way. This is the reality at this time though. There are others trying to find the solutions you are looking for, too, so I'd encourage you to keep checking in. Cooling system companies/manufacturers don't even have proper solutions yet, according to some Members. There's a magic the OEMs possess that we just don't yet have access to.



It is also my understanding that the ECM, in differing years, also bounce spark control influence from IAT2s to MATs. I thought I read that later ECMs use MATs for spark influence.

Just for clarification

100% agree, I know the modifications for power are not helping the heat situation, and I am starting to hear about the weapon X not aiding from a road course perspective. I may keep the side weapon X coolers and go back to stock center heat exchanger..

Will a bigger better radiator fit in the cart? This is another option.
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