Introducing Adam's CS3 - Clean, Shine & Protects!

[Adam's Polishes]

http://www.adamspolishes.com/




Adam’s CS3 is more durable than conventional waxes or sealants and contributes to protection from harmful UV rays and the elements. This relentlessly hydrophobic formulation produces a highly self-cleaning surface and is safe and effective on all substrates including paint, glass, wheels, plastic, rubber molding, and chrome – whether already coated or not!
Adam’s CS3 is uniquely formulated using a proprietary blend of cleaning surfactants, lubricating polymers, chelates, natural emulsifiers, and silica film-formers to engineer a detailer that has to be tried to be believed – no additional water required!
Instructions:
Inspect paint for larger dirt particles or grit. Do not use Adam’s CS3 on extremely dirty finishes.
Spray product liberally onto the area to be cleaned, starting from the top and work down.
Using our bright blue waffle-weave Waterless Wash Towel, or a plush towel of your choice, lightly wipe the towel across the surface.
Rotate the towel to a fresh side and repeat, working in straight lines. Worktop to bottom, leaving the lower sections last.
Use additional towels as necessary once all clean sides have been expended or saturated.

[93TAWicked1]

Umm what the hell, I just bought Sealant and H2 gloss and guard. You almost have too much to choose from. What is the best source to get help on using your products. I tried calling and chose number one and it just sat on hold for awhile?

Love the 2 step metal polish. Did wonders for my CCW's!

[BRZN]

Sealant; Glass Sealant or Paint Sealant? and H2O Guard & Gloss are all awesome products.

The new CS3, think of this as a Waterless Wash, spray use type product with some SiO2 (Ceramic) infused into it with a boost in the other non-water additives. So, you'd be adding a bit of Ceramic protection to the paint as you're cleaning off light dust or water spots (caught in the rain type).

The H2O Guard & Gloss you'd just purchased is a water activated, man made synthetic sealant (not a Ceramic) and will add both incredible amounts of gloss and protection while you dry your vehicle.

On Adam's web store scroll across the selections at the top of the home page to sort the products by category, that's the best way to not get overwhelmed by the total amount of products we offer.

https://adamspolishes.com/

Sorry you were stuck on hold, the companies not all that large, with only a few customer service reps to answer calls at any one time. When new products are released like the new CS3, the phones never seem to stop ringing and it does make it hard to get through.

Adam does have videos on his web store for most products at the bottom of each products page, also available on YouTube.

I have to agree with you, the Metal Polishes #1 & #2 do an exceptional job keeping my CCW's lookin' pretty fresh too.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1

Umm what the hell, I just bought Sealant and H2 gloss and guard. You almost have too much to choose from. What is the best source to get help on using your products. I tried calling and chose number one and it just sat on hold for awhile?

Love the 2 step metal polish. Did wonders for my CCW's!

This is unusual not to get through, must have had a ton of calls.

The 2 protection products you purchased will work very well together.
Start by washing your car to remove all the non-bonded contaminates.

If you have an old sealant/wax on the surface, strip it off. You can do this by using a dedicated strip wash, or just add about 4 oz. of an all purpose cleaner to your wash bucket.

Don't do this in the direct sunlight, or allow it to dry on the surface. You will know the surface is free of any old sealant/wax by the way the water reacts after rinsing. It will not bead or sheet, but will lay flat on the surface.

After the you have completely washed/rinsed/dried your car, check for bonded contaminates using the baggie test.



If contaminates are present, remove them with clay/ or a clay alternative (I like the SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel). Use only fine grade, as medium will cause marring in the clear coat. Use light pressure with clay, and no pressure with the alternative, you only want to remove the bonded contaminates, not grind them into the clearcoat.

After all the painted surface is contaminate free, wipe it down with a dedicated paint prep, or a solution of 15% Isopropyl Alcohol/85% Distilled Water. This will remove any leftover clay lube residue (Ultima waterless wash plus or Optimum no rinse are best values for clay lube), be sure to wear nitrile gloves when doing this step so you don't transfer any oils from your hands to the paint.

Apply your Adams paint sealant (keep those gloves on, as you don't want oils from your hands getting on your applicator or towels). Thinner is better, as any excess you wipe away is just wasted product. Using a machine polisher is the best way to get the thinnest possible application. Unlike many polymer sealants on the market, if you do apply it too heavy in a spot or two, it removes very easily. Very little pressure is needed to apply or remove it. Don't use it on black trim or glass. If you do happen to get some on black trim, a regular pink pencil eraser will remove it after it has dried, just don't use it on the paint.

The next time you wash the car afterwards, apply the Guard & Gloss. Leave the car wet after rinsing and apply it a section at a time.
I like to use two towels in the water bucket, swapping out each time I do a panel. This avoids build up of product, and ensures an even application. Use it on the entire exterior of the car, except the tires.
If you happen to see a spot where it wasn't activated, or streaked, just wipe it gently with one of the wet towels.

Reapply the Guard & Gloss once every two months.

Repeat the application of the Paint Sealant again in 4-6 months, depending on the conditions your car is driven in.

These are two good products you have, if you need any additional help I'll be glad to do so. I've applied this combo to about a dozen different cars.

[93TAWicked1]

Perfect! That helps alot! I'm just finished the clay bar and 2 step merenza polishes. I didn't think about the wipe down with alcohol to get rid of residue!

Has anyone tried the ceramic back to black stuff. Its pricey but VRT isn't really doing the trick on my windshield trim. Maybe the product in this thread would do it?

You two have beautiful cars! Funny pick you posted BRNZ, The car I'm working on is the 06 DSOM Z06 I just picked up, on a QUickjack with CCWs I still can't decide which I like better the DSOM or the IOM on my SS!

[BRZN]

Adam's Black Ceramic Trim Restorer is some pretty incredible stuff. It far out does the Black Trim Restorer we'd been selling in the past, the one without the Ceramic infused into it. Both have some blue dye in them, which seems to turn the black slightly purplish as it cures. A quick wipe down 24 hours later with Ceramic Paint Coating or the Ceramic Spray Coating turns the trim completely black.

I applied it to the front bumper and plastic running boards of our Ford F550 last fall and they're still nice and black!

[93TAWicked1]

That sounds perfect, I'll have to order it. Need more microfiber and will add this to the order! Thanks for the review!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1

That sounds perfect, I'll have to order it. Need more microfiber and will add this to the order! Thanks for the review!

You can get the same microfiber towels at the Rag Company for a lot less $$.

If you want the very best microfiber towels on the market, look into Microfiber Madness (they are expensive).

[93TAWicked1]

Thank you for the info in this thread! Really appreciate it! So getting ready to order the black and the 12 pack of double soft (52 bucks right now!)

I need something to seal the ccws and was looking at the ceramic wheel. On a polished wheel should I go with just the reg ceramic? Not as think and I can use on other things? The UV thing useful tool or gimmick. At $250 order I just want to make sure I'm buying the good stuff!

The wheels were really rough coming from alaska and over 10 years old. Here is where I'm at after getting to 800 grit. Still have a few to go!

[93TAWicked1]

Car after slot of polishing

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1

Thank you for the info in this thread! Really appreciate it! So getting ready to order the black and the 12 pack of double soft (52 bucks right now!)

I need something to seal the ccws and was looking at the ceramic wheel. On a polished wheel should I go with just the reg ceramic? Not as think and I can use on other things? The UV thing useful tool or gimmick. At $250 order I just want to make sure I'm buying the good stuff!

The wheels were really rough coming from alaska and over 10 years old. Here is where I'm at after getting to 800 grit. Still have a few to go!

Our UV Wheel Coating would be the most durable.
Our UV light works great with all of our UV coating, after applying the coating you can use the UV light to see if any spots were missed.
The second best is Like Dave used our Ceramic Spray, a great product that you can apply on your paint, trim, glass & wheels.
Hope this helps!

https://adamspolishes.com/collection...-wheel-coating

https://adamspolishes.com/collection...-spray-coating

[93TAWicked1]

Thank you for the response! I get the wheel ceramic is most durable. Looking to make sure it has a good balance of protection vs keeping the high luster polish your metal polish provides. For powdercoated wheels it would be a no brainer. Between price and hardness ceramics donesn't seem to a a easy thing to "try".

[BRZN]

My CCW's were purchased used and were hammered.

I worked from 220 grit paper through to 3000

then began the process of polishing all the sanding marks out. I went from rouge on cotton wheels to finishing by hand with Adam's #2 Metal Polish using Nuvite Flannel Towels. I had 40 hours in one front wheel before I decided to take them to a professional to polish them.

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/275...els-continues/

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/235...aluminum-rims/

My suggestions for you;
Pop the center caps out, they push in from the front.
Remove the wheel weights
Clean the wheels with lacquer thinner to get all the tar, and wheel weight adhesive off. Pick up a set of Plastic Razor Blades, and a Plastic Holder for the blades, your hands and fingers will thank you. They can be found at Autogeek.net
Pay attention to the areas that are showing the brown specks of brake dust. The brake dust is somewhat acidic and will continue to show and pit unless completely removed.
Use a single edged metal razor blade to make sure the back of the centers of the wheels are clean and smooth where they meet your rotor faces
When sanding defects, use long sanding motions. If you concentrate too much on one small spot there will be depressions where you removed too much of the soft material.
Good luck!

Once polished to your satisfaction protect them with either Adam's Ceramic Wheel Coating, or his Ceramic Spray Coating. The UV light works great on painted surfaces, but is useless on highly polished materials. The reflection of polished aluminum overwhelms the UV Tracer making it impossible to see.

I wipe the wheels down, once cool, after every drive. I blow the brake dust off with compressed air then wipe them down with Adam's Waterless Wash and an individual Waterless Wash Towel for each wheel.

[Adam's Polishes]

Thanks Dave!