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Old 04-13-2014, 10:02 PM   #1
3rdgen3
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Dyno'd my 2012 LS3 on a DynoDynamics Dyno - Anyone else use one?

Hey everyone.

A local performance shop had a cheap dyno day this past weekend so I thought I'd through the car on it for shits and giggles. Before the dynoing started, the shop owner explained to all of us that the DynoDynamics dyno is also known as the "Heartbreak" dyno and reads 18% lower then your typical Dynojet.

I spent about 2 hours searching on Camaro5 for LS3 dyno results with bolt-ons on this specific type of dyno and it was hard to find much using this type of dyno.

My mods:

-CAI w/ custom air scoop
-1 7/8's Long tubes w/ off-road connection pipes
-Stock cat-back w/ muffler deletes
-Diablosport 91 octane canned tune

The car made 377rwhp on this DynoDynamics dyno without a fan blowing on the front so the airscoop obviously wasnt being utilized.

Using the 18% loss/theory VS a DynoJet that the shop explained to me it works out to 444rwhp, which HAS to be wrong.

Can anyone give some insight on this? 377rwhp seems low. Anyone else have dynodynamic numbers for an LS3 car with the same/similar mods?

Dyno Video:

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Old 04-13-2014, 10:19 PM   #2
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I don't have any specific information for you but the DynoDynamics Dynos are one of the lowest reading dynos out there. I did have a 2000 Tahoe dyno'd on one and the readings were low. However I was there mainly for a custom tune.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:38 PM   #3
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LTH w/straight pipes, CAI and tune should get you around 400-420rhp.

manuals generally have a 15% drive train loss from crank hp not wheel hp.

Stock, an LS3 engine should have 360-370rhp.

Those numbers are very low, so I would look into a few things:

1. Do you have a "weak" or "strong" MAF sensor. If it is a weak one, then you are getting no gains from the CAI.

2. How many tunes has the shop done? Was it done right?

3. How was the shop temp when they did your pulls?
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskacamaro View Post
LTH w/straight pipes, CAI and tune should get you around 400-420rhp.

manuals generally have a 15% drive train loss from crank hp not wheel hp.

Stock, an LS3 engine should have 360-370rhp.

Those numbers are very low, so I would look into a few things:

1. Do you have a "weak" or "strong" MAF sensor. If it is a weak one, then you are getting no gains from the CAI.

2. How many tunes has the shop done? Was it done right?

3. How was the shop temp when they did your pulls?
Im very aware of the drive train loss from crank HP to wheel HP. That was not in question. What is in question is the difference in RWHP on a DynoDynamics dyno versus a Dynojet dyno. The dyno operator at the shop told me that his own personal vehicle reads 40rwhp less on this very own DynoDynamics dyno compared to another shops DynoJet right down the street. Same car, same day, just 2x different dynos.

Ive also researched this subject myself and all over the internet/different forums the general consensus seems to be that Dynodynamics dynos are the lowest reading dyno there is. Some people say they read 12% lower, others say 16% and an even larger number are saying 18%, including the shop that dynoed my car.

To answer your questions though..

1) I have a "STRONG" MAF since it's stamped with K17. I've also cleaned it thoroughly with MAF cleaner.

2) I have no idea how many tunes they've done. I didn't get them to tune my car, I only put my car on there dyno to see what kinda ball-park numbers my car would put down as-is. I'm using the stock 91 octane canned tune that Diablosport offers in there HandHeld tuner. I know a dyno tune by a real tuner is the best, but before I do that, I wanted to get a baseline which is why i threw the car on the dyno.

3) The shop temp was cool I'd say. It was about 45-50*F outside temp when my car was on the dyno and the shop door was open. The car was NOT hot or heat soaking before the run either, as it sat outside for about 3 hours before getting it on the dyno.


377rwhp DOES seem low, which is why I came here, asking all of you with experience with these cars that have dyno'd them on the same DynoDynamics dyno. However, if you factor in the 18% loss of this type of dyno compared to a dynojet, it would inflate the numbers from 377 to 444...both numbers seem off to me, hence the questions im asking now.

For those that dont know about this type of dyno, it's very similar to a Mustang dyno as it adds load/resistance.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:17 AM   #5
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I'm assuming that you never got your stock baseline? Even if you did it wadn't on this dyno I'm sure. That dyno sounds very stingy, but make sure to use it again after each mod and for tuning from this point forward. A good tune will get you into the 390's on that dyno, but I'd bet that a dynojet would have you in the 400's right now, as is.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:48 AM   #6
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Yes, dynodynamics read low by what I've read over the last decade or better.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:55 AM   #7
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OP the best way to satisfy your curiosity is to go find a Dynojet and get some numbers. Then at least you have numbers from a dyno type that is in the majority on this forum if you want to compare. Even then it's a crap shoot. My first stock dyno was 366 rwhp at 4K miles. Then my second was 378 rwhp at 12.5 K miles. Both on dynojets but at different shops but with similar weather conditions. My guess is that on a Dynojet your numbers would be 410-415 rwhp.

What I know for sure is that with my current set-up (cam w/boltons and through 3.91 gears) I'm at 476 rwhp and thus gained 98 rwhp over the last stock reading (same shop, same tuner, similar weather). As many will tell you a comparison for gains on your vehicle after adding mods is what a dyno reading does best.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:37 AM   #8
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Dyno Dynamics are not what you want to be on if you are searching for high numbers. On a dynojet stock I was 378. After LT's and CAI on the same dyno I was 412 before the tune. I had the car tuned and it was at 410 on a Dyno Dynamics dyno and 430 on the same Dynojet on a hotter day. Post cam I was 460 on the Dyno Dynamics dyno and 485 on the dynojet, again different day and temp. After the Maggie went on, I was 585 on the dyno dynamics, but 620 on a dynojet.

The shop sold their dyno dynamics dyno due to tech support issues with them (I think they are an austrailian company and had a problem taking care of customers in the US). The shop is now using a Mustang dyno and it ready very very close to the Dyno Dynamics dyno.

I wouldn't try to use a set % when compairing the differences in dyno's. Just for shits and giggles, my numbers were 6% different fairly consistantly, but there are way too many other factors that need to be figured in to why it reads what it does. One problem the shop here was having was the break wouldn't fully disengage and it made it read lower. Could have had a similar issue with your car.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:08 PM   #9
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"Powered by Cunningham MotorSports"

So at Cunningham did you use the Mustang dyno? I am going there on May 6th for my chasis dyno tune and was just wondering what to expect. My previous chasis dyno was out at Westech and using their SuperFlow dyno.

A few years ago I was also in that general area where the shop used a Dyno Dynamics dyno. I wonder if it was the same one?
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdgen3 View Post

For those that dont know about this type of dyno, it's very similar to a Mustang dyno as it adds load/resistance.
From my understanding, You answered your question right there. Typically a dyno jet has a ~2500lb roller that you car has to spin. No resistance (electronic brake) added to it. A mustang dyno you can add resistance to the 2500lb roller to to match the weight of the car for a more "true" dyno number. So for us we would have 3800-4200 pounds of resistance to be "true" but since you can vary the weight of the resistance you can get a near mind blowing number of results. Stick with one dyno. If it's high numbers you seek go to a dyno jet, or strap to a mustang dyno with zero resistance. Not sure how much the dyno dynamics vary in their resistance, but from the sound of it, it's either one heavy ass roller, or they set the resistance higher than what it needs to be.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:12 AM   #11
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I think it is from the diablo. Get ya tuner to go in and mess with it and it will come up to 400+ rwhp
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:22 AM   #12
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Post up a dyno sheet.

What was the Correction Factor or is this number uncorrected?

Lots of variables. Might actually be a good number if we can see the details.

I can tell ya our Dynojet 424xlc reads a little low but it's consistent as heck.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed View Post
Post up a dyno sheet.

What was the Correction Factor or is this number uncorrected?

Lots of variables. Might actually be a good number if we can see the details.

I can tell ya our Dynojet 424xlc reads a little low but it's consistent as heck.
Ivan
I dont have a Dyno sheet. You can see the screen from the dyno at the end of the video I posted in the original post.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

I never had a "before" dyno when the car was 100% stock, however its easy to see if the car falls in the same 'ballpark' area as most others with LT's and Intake around here.

Im going to re-dyno the car in the next little while on a better/more trusted dyno that I know is calibrated correctly.

The 377rwhp number i was told is corrected, but the dyno was no way calibrated correctly. It said my car made a peek torque of 210RWTQ. Yea right..
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