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Old 06-24-2015, 09:28 AM   #15
BaylorCamaro
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Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
There are a lot of factors, ambient temp, track layout, driving style, etc,
Good point, the track I was on was small and technical with only two (small) straights and I was basically keeping the car in one gear the entire time and would run it to red line on the straights. I suspect if I short shifted instead of going to red line that would help the heating issue some.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:21 AM   #16
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Why would paddle shifting not overheat the car when auto mode will? Its all the same components. Is it something in the tune with the paddle shifting? Also would a lower 160 temp thermostat help? I know this has always been argued but I put one on my C6 and it really did lower the avg temp, and this was in Texas heat.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:28 AM   #17
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A couple things I've recently found for you auto trans guys with overheat issues. The Z06 trans cooler will fit behind the Stingray fascia with no mods to the bodywork, according to GM statements about possible Z06 Performance Parts upgrades for Stingrays (theze upgrades also include brakes, suspension and more). Also, the Z06 fender-top ducts flow 35% more air than the Stingray pieces all by themselves. These upgrades might help some of you out.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by purpleRac3r View Post
The Z06 trans cooler will fit behind the Stingray fascia with no mods to the bodywork, according to GM statements about possible Z06 Performance Parts upgrades for Stingrays (theze upgrades also include brakes, suspension and more). Also, the Z06 fender-top ducts flow 35% more air than the Stingray pieces all by themselves. These upgrades might help some of you out.
The top ducts do seem to be more "scoopy" (not a word, I know) forcing more air in. I would love to put those on my car. It was my understanding that the z06 trans cooler is larger (and so is the z06 fascia) and so it won't fit in a non-z06.
I'm taking the car to the dealer so we'll see what he says.
I'm hoping that it's just a faulty sensor or that the fluid is burnt/ineffective and changing the fluids will make everything better. I've tracked the car several times without incident, but now literally 18 minutes is all I have in a session and then like clock work it'll go into limp mode.

As far as paddle shifting, all I can tell you is that at the Ron Fellows Driving School they made all the autos paddle shift because they said that if you didn't it would overheat the engine. I don't have any proof of that. I do know that, at least the way I drive, the auto shifts way more than I do.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:04 PM   #19
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Its true the Z06 cooler is physically larger, but it sits at an angle behind the fascia, and will fit behind a Stingray fascia with no body mods - at least according to some info posted by GM. I haven't seen anyone make the switch, so don't know for 100% sure. I hope the dealer finds the issue - I'd be really annoyed if I had that kind of headache. Thankfully, my M7 doesn't overheat.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:34 PM   #20
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Ok, so I could only go about 15-18 minutes of hard driving on the track before going into transmission limp mode.

I took it to the dealer who said that there were no codes saying that something was wrong, so he had nothing to fix. I told him to flush the transmission, hoping new fluids would improve the durability.
It worked a little. I could go about 20 minutes before overheating. Still not enough to make a full session despite avoiding the redline like the plaque.

Finally, I break down and figure that since GM could care less about this obvious, well-documented problem, I might as well fix it myself. I got an aftermarket cooler (larger than the Z06), installed that, and moved the OEM cooler to over the leafspring, running 2 coolers. I swapped out the pan for a larger capacity pan increasing the transmission fluid capacity by about a gallon. I went ahead and upgraded the radiator too, so that absolutely nothing would overheat.

Today, I ran a couple of full sessions in ambient temperature of 97 degrees (103 per the stingray ambient thermometer) and the max transmission temperature was only about 225.
One caveat: it was a track I had never ran before, so I was definitely going much slower, and shifting a lot less. I definitely wasn't pushing the car and never redlined it. Usually my mpg is about 7 or 8, but today it was 10.5, so clearly I wasn't driving her very hard. But, no limp mode at all.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:36 PM   #21
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Ok, so I could only go about 15-18 minutes of hard driving on the track before going into transmission limp mode.

I took it to the dealer who said that there were no codes saying that something was wrong, so he had nothing to fix. I told him to flush the transmission, hoping new fluids would improve the durability.
It worked a little. I could go about 20 minutes before overheating. Still not enough to make a full session despite avoiding the redline like the plaque.

Finally, I break down and figure that since GM could care less about this obvious, well-documented problem, I might as well fix it myself. I got an aftermarket cooler (larger than the Z06), installed that, and moved the OEM cooler to over the leafspring, running 2 coolers. I swapped out the pan for a larger capacity pan increasing the transmission fluid capacity by about a gallon. I went ahead and upgraded the radiator too, so that absolutely nothing would overheat.

Today, I ran a couple of full sessions in ambient temperature of 97 degrees (103 per the stingray ambient thermometer) and the max transmission temperature was only about 225.
One caveat: it was a track I had never ran before, so I was definitely going much slower, and shifting a lot less. I definitely wasn't pushing the car and never redlined it. Usually my mpg is about 7 or 8, but today it was 10.5, so clearly I wasn't driving her very hard. But, no limp mode at all.
Your group of fixes sounds a lot like what LG Motorsports was recommending. For now I just have some heat wrap on the exhaust for the entire length of the transmission. I still have not scheduled a track day, I need new brake pads before I track mine again. Just hit 30,000 miles and stock pads are gone up front.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:05 PM   #22
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It should sound like LG, because that's exactly who did the work. I opted for their Stage III Transmission Cooling Kit https://www.lgmotorsports.com/corvet...d-cooling.html
and changed the radiator as well.
So far, so good.

30k on stock pads sounds pretty good. I had to change mine at about 6k. Let me know what you pads you choose next.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:14 PM   #23
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Soooo ... I've had my 2016 Z51 with A8 for a while now so I thought I'd go ahead and post up. I've had zero overheating problems so far. Shifts are the smoothest I've ever had in any auto trans car and are super fast at WOT. Crossing my fingers that things continue this way.
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Old 05-15-2016, 01:43 PM   #24
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Soooo ... I've had my 2016 Z51 with A8 for a while now so I thought I'd go ahead and post up. I've had zero overheating problems so far. Shifts are the smoothest I've ever had in any auto trans car and are super fast at WOT. Crossing my fingers that things continue this way.
The trans works great on public roads but if you take your car to a high performance driving event, particularly if it is at a race track with some long straights and then some really tight corners, you may find if you drive the car at its limits, the transmission will overheat before you complete your allotted time on the track. Lot of posts on on this topis here and a lot of good fixes are available now. I don't know of anyone having problems on public roads but the full throttle to full brake to full throttle on a race track, trans only lasts 15 to 20 minutes.
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
The trans works great on public roads but if you take your car to a high performance driving event, particularly if it is at a race track with some long straights and then some really tight corners, you may find if you drive the car at its limits, the transmission will overheat before you complete your allotted time on the track. Lot of posts on on this topis here and a lot of good fixes are available now. I don't know of anyone having problems on public roads but the full throttle to full brake to full throttle on a race track, trans only lasts 15 to 20 minutes.

I've had no problems on track.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:55 AM   #26
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Didn't they implement a 'fix' for the overheating A8 transmissions with the 2016 model year?
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:23 AM   #27
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I'm pretty sure it was resolved. Here's a portion of an e-mail from Tadge dated May 2015.
Although there are very few complaints from Z51 customers on cooling issues, we are looking at taking some of the learnings and hardware from the Z06 and making them available on the Stingray. For example, the front-mounted supplemental trans cooler developed for the Z06 automatic will be included in the Z51 package for automatic coupes starting in the 2016 model year.
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Old 07-21-2016, 09:40 AM   #28
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I just returned from a High Performance Driving Class in Nevada. They had Z51 & Z06 vehicles in both auto and manual, all '15's & 16's. Cars were stock except for radios and heavier oil and air temps were 106-107. Training was a rotation between classroom and track, approx. 40-50 min sessions each. During the 2 day class none of the autos overheated. The reason given by the instructors is that they recommend the cars be shifted at the peak HP curve, approx. 5500RPM, since you really do not gain anything over that shift point. We also ran a cool down lap at the end of each session at 40-50mph in 4th gear.
We also ran air conditioning at max.

Last edited by h422694; 07-21-2016 at 02:28 PM.
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