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Old 07-01-2015, 10:08 PM   #85
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Personally, I believe the Z/28 is a nightmare scenario for a Lithium battery. Put a temp gauge next to the battery on a hot day at the track. It's an oven back there when you combine the effects of the exhaust, CC brakes, and the absence of insulation. I can't see any Lithium battery surviving back there for long. Just my $.02
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:44 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizzle View Post
I was ready to pull the trigger on the 21lbs deka battery, the 15 was horrible on my previous car, however somebody here said 300bucks for a Lion battery. Thats not bad to save additional 10lbs and cure the underateer more.

By the way are younstill on the enkeis? How are they holding up and did you do many track days on them?
$300 for a Lion battery? If that's true, the price has really fallen!

Understeer is the result of a (generally) heavier front end of a car wanting to plow off the road on a corner; taking weight out of the back will actually make that worse. Put the money on wider front wheels and/or a good strong rear sway bar set to a stiffer setting than stock.

Yes I'm still on the Enkei's and they are holding up fine. Did a couple of track days with them before I had to move.
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:51 PM   #87
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This will be my 4th Braille battery. The other 3 were the ML20c, but for the z28 I chose the ML30c. I have had good luck with the Braille products. I only use the Braille 2 Amp charger pictured. The battery weighs 9.3 lbs.

I also included a picture of an ML20c mounted in one of my cars.
I'll add a picture of the ML30c once its mounted.
Attached Images
    

Last edited by Z28pex; 07-30-2015 at 02:07 PM. Reason: add mor info
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:16 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brt3 View Post
Personally, I believe the Z/28 is a nightmare scenario for a Lithium battery. Put a temp gauge next to the battery on a hot day at the track. It's an oven back there when you combine the effects of the exhaust, CC brakes, and the absence of insulation. I can't see any Lithium battery surviving back there for long. Just my $.02

I'm going to run a temp gauage at my next track day.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:45 AM   #89
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Now that we know the curb weight of the gt350, anyone have any idea on what weight reduction "mods" it would take to approach gt350 weight as well as gt350r weight?
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:48 PM   #90
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OVER 200 LBS. WEIGHT SAVING HOLIDAY PROMO

more ideas.

1. These are only 6.5 each. Weight saving of over 80 lbs.

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2. Braille battery that will save 39 lbs.

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3. Forgeline:

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[/COLOR][/B][/SIZE]

Last edited by Moreno1; 01-17-2016 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 11-26-2015, 03:48 PM   #91
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Another choice, the folks I've used, is Lithionics: http://www.lithionicsbattery.com/auto.html

I spec the wireless (key-fob) "Never-Die" option as well.

"Our NEVER-DIE™ system, internal to the battery case, places an unused vehicle battery into 'sleep mode', with a reserve energy preserved sufficient to provide 2 to 3 restarts after the battery is reactivated. We offer various remote-controlled user interfaces to 'wake' the battery up."

So I save 30 lbs (the LiON battery weighs approx 10-11 lbs) and never have to worry about my lap timer or data recording system sucking the battery dry because I forgot to turn it off.
I browsed their web site for a battery, but they all have this warning: "*Battery must be charged with Lithionics Battery approved charger once a month.". They have this warning even for their models with the battery protection management. : (
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:18 PM   #92
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Here is a new design from Forgeline.

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Last edited by Moreno1; 01-17-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:28 PM   #93
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That is an incredible wheel.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:22 PM   #94
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7. Mantic 9000: This package is 22 lbs. lighter then the factory clutch.

[/COLOR]
This is the same clutch we are using on our personal project G5.R.

I snagged these pictures from Docs build thread. This is my favorite build thread on this entire forum. I hope he doesn't mind I'm using them.

My recommendation for all you guys looking to shed weight is to read Docs build thread. Here is the link. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45165

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You can read part of his review below.

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Old 11-29-2015, 06:27 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X25 View Post
I browsed their web site for a battery, but they all have this warning: "*Battery must be charged with Lithionics Battery approved charger once a month.". They have this warning even for their models with the battery protection management. : (

Z28pex, has had a Braille on a car for 8 months without starting it and the car started right up. Maybe he can jump in and give some feed back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2015Z28 View Post
That is an incredible wheel.
On a Z/28 I think they would look incredible because they have somewhat of a flair of a similar design.
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:57 PM   #96
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I am on my 4th Braille Micro-lite Lithium battery and I really like the products. I only use the Braille charger pictured a couple of post up. I don't think that particular model is available anymore as it is several years old. But, they have newer charger models available. The Braille batteries that I have owned have performed flawlessly. Not only do they save weight but they hold a charge for a long time. I do recommend a cutoff switch or negative terminal removal if you are storing the car or you are not daily driving the car. You are never suppose to jump the batteries and I have never needed too. If the voltage for some reason gets around 9 volts Braille wants it back to service the battery. I have never had this issue but I have been warned to not jump or try charging if the battery gets below a certain voltage level, but return for service. They are not the cheapest battery on the market, but I will not buy anything else. I'll site an example, I stored my full race porsche 914 in a warehouse, and after about 5 months I stopped and checked on it. I turned the cutoff switches to the on position and the car fired right up and I only idled the car a few minutes then shut it off and opened the switches. The car then sat for another full year until I finally found a buyer. I had moved and was living in another state at the time and I talked to the storage facility. I said, "do not jump the car if it will not crank, measure the voltage and give me a call". They called and said, " it measures 13.2 volts". The car fired right up and the car is now sold. I have never kept the charger connected to any of my cars, but I always keep the cutoff switch disconnected or the negative terminal disconnected. This works for me and someone wanted my feedback so there it is. They are light, easy to remove and handle, no corrosive liquid inside, and for me they have worked great.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:01 PM   #97
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You don't need anything expensive if you are going to use a cut off switch. It becomes important when you don't use such a switch that the battery protects itself against deep cycle. Otherwise you could use any cheap lithium ion battery and since these batteries don't lose much charge even in long term (around 10%/year vs. 14%/month for regular lead acid batteries?), it would work.

I hate using cut off switches, though, since you have to reset everything on the car, and that's not my type of use for the car. I'm sure the use of kill switch was fine for your race car.The capacities of these batteries are usually much lower, and they eventually run out unless you're daily driving your car or keep it on charge very frequently.
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Old 11-29-2015, 11:54 PM   #98
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Nathan, please be sure and get me the seat and valve cover information. I have decided to paint the crash bars, so I will contact Craig next week and get that moving along.
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