2014 Heat extractor on a 2010 hood

[Angrybird 12]

Originally Posted by Angrybird 12

I bought one intending to put it on the hood of my Colorado, after getting it and doing some measurments i feel the clearance would be too close to the top of the motor.
So I am offering the extractor with mounting nuts and washers for $100 plus shipping. If you are within 100 miles of Johnson City Tn I would be willing to deliver it for just the $100.
Message me if you are interested.

Still available..

[Eddiefuzz]

Originally Posted by ChrisThornes

parts arrived i have one question i purchased the right toilet bolts the oblong head ones 1/4x20 as in previous posts when i slip them in the spots on the vent they still turn freely? arent they supposed to not turn? what did you guys do exactly? thanks

I think someone used smaller Toilet Bolts, get the next bigger size. I'm the originator of the Toilet Bolts and mine do not rotate once snapped in place, also get stainless steel wing nuts for easy removal and replacement.

[KROLIS]

Originally Posted by olblue75

How would this look???

Look at the 2019

[Ffengine19]

Originally Posted by Jerry7297

Ok I am not the first person to do this but I thought I would give a little detail on how I did this. I would like to acknowledge the thread below. This is the only reason I found the part and went a head and did this. This was really not that hard but the first cuts are nerve racking. Just think about the beating you put on your engines when your haulin ass around town this is the equivalent just to your exterior lol.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337230

I would also like to thank member "thkfast" I asked him to give me measurements off his 2014 and he did very quickly and I don't even know him. I just saw that he had the heat extractor on his hood.


Tools needed:

Air compressor
Air cut off tool
Air saw (I used the $13 dollar one from Harbor freight)
At least one brand new air saw blade pack
Grinder
Drill
1/4” drill bit
Ratchet / socket
Tape Measure
Razor Knife
File
Torch
Sponge paint brush
Sharpie (marker)
Silver Sharpie (Optional)
Vise (Optional)

Materials needed:

1- GM 2014 Heat extractor (GM Part # 22828242)
Optional- GM- Water Deflector (GM Part # 23180572)
Painters tape
Drop cloths
Masking paper
Paint (I used Cold Galvanizing Paint)
6- M6-1.00 Nylon Lock nuts (I picked these up at Lowes they do not come with the extractor)
2- sticks of flat aluminum 3/4"X 4' (Got these at Lowes but they have at Home Depot also )
1- 2X4 (Optional)


To Do list:
1. Use one of the sides the box the extractor came in and trace the extractor to make a template.
2. Measure from the Under side of the vents to outside of the extractor. I used - .5" measure yours to double check.
3. Cut out the outside and inside of the template. Test fit the template until it fits with little play on the bottom of the extractor. (see the 1st and 2nd pic below) MORE INFO on template on this link - Post #199 & #200 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=346744&page=8
4. Measure from the windshield side of the hood down 16 -3/8” in a couple of different places and make a mark with a pencil or use painters tape to make a guide line. This is the beginning of the extractor mark. Not the hole mark.
5. Put the Template on the marks and from the edge of the hood to the top corners of the extractor measure 24-1/4” this will get you lined up very close. Also pay close attention to the front side to make sure the center line of the hood with the center of the extractor template. The side measurements are not exact you may get a little different measurements just use good judgement and center it up. Also note the measurement will be different in different areas of the extractor as it gets skimmer towards the front of the extractor.
6. Once you get the template on the mark and centered on the hood Tape the template down to the hood. and use a marker to mark the inside mark of the template. Then remove the template. (MAKE SURE ITS THE INSIDE NOT THE OUTSIDE OF THE TEMPLATE OR YOUR HOLE WILL BE TOO BIG)
7. Then tape up the hood on the inside and outside of the mark you made. Closest to the mark double tape it as you will be using the saw on that area and you don’t want to scratch your paint.
8. Then use the masking paper and tape to cover the rest of your hood.
9. Open your hood remove your engine cover use drop cloths to cover the engine fenders and the front fascia.
10. Put the 2X4 under the front of the hood use as a spacer just in case. I wanted to make sure I was a not close to any engine parts…
11. Remove your Hood liner.
12. Drill 2 holes in the top 2 corners. Use your air saw to cut out your template line. If you feel like the blade is getting dull replace it. I used about 5 blades to be sure. Some parts you are cutting through sheet metal and braces on the underneath side of the hood. Use your Air cut off tool if you want to make it through the parts with braces. I used it a lot on the front side cause you do cut into the bracing in the front of the hole and it is a little difficult with the saw. Test fit the extractor and use the grinder until the extractor sits in the hole flush and doesn’t rub on any sides.
13. Use your file and file down all burrs and edges.
14. Optional (hood is aluminum and will not rust but could corrode)- Use your choice of paint and the paint brush and paint all cut edges to make sure they do not rust. I chose the galvanizing paint.
15. Remove all painters tape and drop clothes.
16. Let the paint dry then reinstall your hood liner and close your hood. Make a mark on your hood liner through the hole you cut in your hood. A silver sharpie would work great on this. I didn’t have one on hand so I just used a black one and I was able to see the mark just fine. Then remove the hood liner again and cut out the mark. As long as you have a new blade in your razor knife this is easy.
17. Place the extractor in the hole and lift the hood. Hold your flat Aluminum up and mark it so that it goes about 2-3 inches past your hole at the front set of bolts on the extractor. Use your marker and mark the center line marks of the bolts.
18. Cut the flat aluminum the the length you marked and drill the holes out with a 1/4” drill bit.
19. Cut 2 small pieces of the Flat aluminum about 3". Drill a 1/4" hole in one side.
20. Get 2 of the M6-1.00 nuts and bolt on the aluminum pieces you just cut / drilled. Put the long piece on first then add the short ones going strait towards the front of the hood. This will hold the extractor in place for the rest of the measurements. (the short pieces going to the front hold down the front of the extractor and they are needed. I didn't put them on at first and it was tight enough in the front of the extractor. )
21. I took the 2 pieces of flat aluminum that were left and put about a 1/4 inch in a vise and heated up the aluminum and bent a 90 degree in it. Then remove it from the vise and heat it some more and use a hammer and hit it till its more like a 45 degree. Please note this step is optional you do not have to do this I just thought it was a good idea.
22. Hold the other 2 pieces up the the other extractor bolts and hook the 45 degree if you did that on the hood support beam and mark where to cut the other side. I went a little past the other side of the hoods identical support beam and mark where to cut, also mark the center of the 2 extractor bolts.
23. Cut and drill the other 2 flat pieces of aluminum, get 4 more nuts and install the pieces.
24. Reinstall the Hood liner.
25. Take the time to read through the thread, there is good info on how to use the stock rain tray. It is even removable as GM intended for track use. All this was perfected by the members on here.
26. Stand back and gaze at your hard work and drool….

Sorry very late but we’re you able to fit the 2014 hood extractor on the 2010 hood? I have a 2011 and everyone keeps telling me it wouldn’t fit flush or right

[BowTieOnly]

Originally Posted by Angrybird 12

Still available..

I am interested if it is still available. Please contact me at jordanlew6 at gmail

[KROLIS]

Originally Posted by Ffengine19

Sorry very late but we’re you able to fit the 2014 hood extractor on the 2010 hood? I have a 2011 and everyone keeps telling me it wouldn’t fit flush or right

The 1 from ACS on my 2013. No problems

[KROLIS]

https://youtu.be/aYrYuCMRemw

[faSSteddie]

I think it has been asked before...but I did not see it quickly in the 60 plus pages here...has anyone used a Heat extractor/ hood vent with a Magnuson supercharger....either a factory one or the shallower SLP one??
thanks,
faSSteddie

[GMteSSted]

Originally Posted by faSSteddie

I think it has been asked before...but I did not see it quickly in the 6 plus pages here...has anyone used a Heat extractor/ hood vent with a Magnuson supercharger....either a factory one or the shallower SLP one??
thanks,
faSSteddie

I have the SLP with a Maggie. Clearance for the extractor is good, but you can't use the rain train, it will not clear. I made a train out out of sheet aluminum that it shaped to stay tight against the extractor so it will clear.

[0stones0]

Have some pertinent questions as a “new” 2010 ss owner so, please bear with me, as I understand this thread goes back years. First off, I really like the write up on doing the extractor mod and it doesn’t scare me in the least to cut the hood. The fabricator in me wants to jump at the project, trust me.
But, I have to wonder on why we need to extract the heat from under the hood, when it apparently is meant to be hot (well, the engine that is). I mean, the hood is insulated, the engine cover is insulated, the cover of sorts that’s over the intake appears insulated. I understand they want the engine to be hot for efficiency, but, it seems strange that they wouldn’t be concerned about the rest of the engine bay having the “heat soak” condition. So, I’m basically torn on whether or not I need to but, more importantly, whether I should do the mod. Guess I’d like to get a few opinions, if it’s not too much trouble.
Thanks

[olblue75]

Depends on if you on tracking the car or not while you need some heat it helps relieve heat soak especially in stop and go traffic. You can literally see the heat pouring from the vent when stopped.

[KROLIS]

Did mine because I liked the look.

[0stones0]

Think I’ll go with the just the extractor without the drip tray. Want maximum heat removal and admittedly a fair weather driver anyways. The 3m tape sounds like a nice clean install. My biggest concern is does the 3m tape hold up to the heat? A little more cyphering and will pull the trigger on ordering the extractor.

[0stones0]

And she’s done.
Little clean up on the hardware and good to go.
Decided to use the rain tray, as well. Thought it made for a nice clean under the hood look.