more camber bolts

[Joe.G]

Here my Thread on alignment, We were able to get the specs until I added non Adjustable BMR LCA in the rear. I then had to get a BMR Kit for the rear and still were not able to get exactly what I wanted but close.


https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596730

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Well, I can't find my alignment specs they gave me at NTB. And yes I had it done at NTB. So before you tell me how bad the guys are there a woman actually done it, but she seemed very confident. She actually came out to explain to me why I needed those bolts. So I actually did a little before and after test of my own with my 2' level. Before I had the alignment done, I put the level on the tire and checked plum on both tires and it was way off on the driver's side because it actually had positive camber. Was you car on a level surface both times you checked with a level? That's a big variable that will throw off that type of measurement. Even a small change in where the car is sitting changes the measured camber. The car needs to be on a perfect flat plane to be confident of any kind of measurementThen after the alignment was done it was then negative. From what I can tell it's pretty spot on the same on both sides and from what I can remember from the NTB alignment print out was something like .25* out of spec on one wheel or something like that. One thing I did notice though is on the print out it said fe3 suspension and I believe I have the fe4 suspension. Don't really know if that's a problem or not but think it probably is. Because on my rpo label in the trunk I have a spot on there that says fe4 does that mean that I have fe4 suspension?

FE3/FE4/FE5/FE6/FEA is a moot point, it only matters to what the alignment is being spec'd to. If it is a "custom" alignment it matters even less. The relevant components are all dimensionally the same and will give the same desired result if the tech knows how to do the alignment.


My '14 1LE (FE6) was dropped on Z/28 DSSVs (FEA) and I had an aggressive track alignment. Stock, these cars can obtain about -2* up front, and if the strut to knuckle slots on the strut are further elongated, -2.5* is obtainable. If you increase the caster, that reduces the camber potential. I never had to use any other strut bolt other than OE to meet my moderate camber goals. When I wanted to push the envelope for the track I installed camber plates. But for the street, these are unnecessary. I would occasionally set my camber plates to OE position and even with additional caster, I got what I wanted.


Out back, when a moderate front street setup of -1.0* to -1.25* camber is used, shoot for about -.5 to -.75* at the rear. No sense pushing the rear camber too high for a street car. So with these goals, the OE arms and eccentric bolts will have zero trouble obtaining that. As I mentioned, honing in on the rear goals is a dance. And from the feedback here on the forums over the years, many shops have neither the patience or know how to do it. BMR will gladly sell you more parts in order to solve an issue that really isn't there. While I had DSE adjustable toe rods on my '14, this was done because it eliminated one of the eccentric bolts and it made adjusting toe way easier. At my still relatively moderate rear track specs, I was not in need of aftermarket parts to obtain my desired #s.


Shoot for zero toe up front, minimum .20* toe in (toe in #s are positive) at the rear. Do not go below the .20* otherwise the rear of the car may be unstable, especially with big power.

All this is with the assumption that nothing is bent or loose, but any skilled tech should be looking for such deficiencies.

Don't be satisfied when the alignment is "in the green", lol. Look at the actual #s. Side to side symmetry, especially with the toe, is the goal and any competent tech can obtain this in a reasonable time.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Joe.G

Here my Thread on alignment, We were able to get the specs until I added non Adjustable BMR LCA in the rear. I then had to get a BMR Kit for the rear and still were not able to get exactly what I wanted but close.


https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596730

Why would swapping to a non-adjustable arm be of benefit? It's not except to make a sale to BMR. Any non adjustable arm should be the same length as the OE arms. So with everything else equal, it will be a wash when it comes to alignment results. You say you added the BMR LCAs then the #s changed. Either the BMR LCA is a different length than OE (why??) or it's because the tech wasn't skilled. I'm thinking the latter.

[gtstorey]

Here is Justice Pete's last alignment sheet that he posted.
There are typo's in the stock setting columns.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...52&postcount=2

[cdb95z28]

One other factor that I would hope a shop has correct in all this is that where the car sits on the alignment rack, the tires should be sitting on "toe plates" These plates laterally slide against each other so when adjustments are made the tire and suspension is not bound up. If the tires are not sitting on toe plates, then adjusting the alignment is going to be difficult. The #s will move erratically making it hard to hone in on tight, solid specs. I mentioned the timing of the bushings. If this is not resolved, this can also cause erratic results, creating a nightmare for the tech. The devil's in the details.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Here is Justice Pete's last alignment sheet that he posted.
There are typo's in the stock setting columns.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...52&postcount=2

Yep, the FE4 and FE5 columns are all messed up.

This one is correct:



The FE4 and FE5 cross camber is terrible. Tighten that up to .2* max just like the other specs. Same goes for the cross toe but shoot for .05* max cross toe. I shoot for zero cross camber and toe. Ultimately you want the thrust to be zero. That goes a long way to making the car drive super nice.

[Joe.G]

Cdb, the non adjustable BMR LCA are made for a lowered car, I am lowered 1" but it wasn't enough for what the arms are meant for so I could not get the spec, there are others that had the same issue. I was able to get the spec with all the other Mods but the LCA.

[morepowerjoe]

Thanks for all the info you guys are awesome. NTB does use toe plates and when I checked the camber with my level, I checked it in my garage in the same spot. Thanks cdb95z28 for all that you've given me some things to think about for sure.