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Old 03-29-2018, 06:21 PM   #1
ULTRAZLS1


 
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ARP crank bolt too long when installing ATI 10% UD damper

Will not allow damper to seat all the way on properly. Just installed one today. I had correct part # as well. 234-2504 for gen V LT1.

Just a heads up to anyone in the future. I just used a stocker with the end shaved down a bit. It won’t fit through the opening in the hub as is. Needs to be grinded just a little.
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:25 PM   #2
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I know arp had to different length crank bolts for LS engines. One would bottom out on a Fbody crank. You sure it might not be for a different application like a Vette which may have a different offset for the balancer?
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:39 PM   #3
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I called arp and told them it was a 16 SS, told them the part #, they had me measure it. Said it would work/ was supposed to be that length. No go. I almost ordered a shorter 2503 part number which may have worked. But according to arp this is correct. So idk

It was good to use as a tool to get the hub started on the crank being longer that’s about it. Which I had the tool back in the day anyway but couldn’t find it. So I guess it helped for that

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There’s the difference.

Pick of the arp bolt alone is after about 15 seconds with a strong air gun turned all the way up. You can see by the color of the threads it was bottoming out.and also some small metal shavings at the end of the bolt.

A stocker grinded to fit through the ati damper hub will work just fine. It’s too large as is by about 1/8 inch. I know they are stretch to fit and new is recommended but I was in a pinch. I covered my original in loctite and torqued it to 240 ft lb. I can’t imagine it ever coming loose. Belt alignment looks great

Here’s a pic of what needs to be grinded.

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Old 03-29-2018, 08:05 PM   #4
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I had a small amount of oil come out of the snout yesterday, the keyed opening may also be off a smidge so check it after you drive it around for a bit. It wasn't there today but if I see any more, I'll replace the bolt with new and add some sealant first.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:41 PM   #5
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I took pictures of abrand new stock L99 crank bolt for a size reference. Lengths are end of bolt to inside of flat surface.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:48 PM   #6
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The arp is 5 1/8 long not including bolt head or washer. So it goes about 5 inches deep with the washer
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:48 PM   #7
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Thanks Bro! Ima try this wknd!
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:55 PM   #8
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NP

Just trying to save someone else the trouble in the future. I don’t see how this bolt would work with a stock damper either. The hub is actually a touch shorter compared to the ati

Do these companies just make this stuff and not even check if it works? I don’t get it. Or if the stingray is different this should be addressed as well wtf
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:48 AM   #9
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Funny. If you watch like RPM motorsports on youtube, you can see everyone going off at DFR for having an ATI pulley come off an lt4 crank and mauling it to shit. This could be the reason. I'm not a fan of DFR, but the wich hunt is real. When this could be the very reason why it came off. If someone installed the pulley and didn't realize the bolt was the wrong length easily could have backed out and caused the problem.

The real screwy thing is, most people wouldn't question what bolt length to use on a part from such a proven source like ATI. Even if it didn't seem like a perfect fit
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Old 03-30-2018, 11:45 AM   #10
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I been working on cars for years and seen it all. Getting wrong or incorrect or just plain faulty parts happens all the time.

I once got a cam from comp that the holes were tapped so far off in the base of the cam it nearly came through the base circle. It was fingernail thin or less. Would have failed and ruined my engine for sure. Fuel pumps that simply won’t run. Wheel bearings that go bad in two weeks. Nothing is sacred
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Old 03-30-2018, 12:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1 View Post
I been working on cars for years and seen it all. Getting wrong or incorrect or just plain faulty parts happens all the time.

I once got a cam from comp that the holes were tapped so far off in the base of the cam it nearly came through the base circle. It was fingernail thin or less. Would have failed and ruined my engine for sure. Fuel pumps that simply won’t run. Wheel bearings that go bad in two weeks. Nothing is sacred
In the import world I've never had a part from a good manufacturer like ATI have a bad problem like this... This is pretty serious if you don't catch. Not discounting what you've seen, just I'm definitely not used to seeing well known manufacturers **** up like this!
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:29 PM   #12
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Good to know. Do u notice any less vibrations/resonance?
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Old 03-30-2018, 08:53 PM   #13
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Was just looking for a few more hp and a 10.7 slip. It’s hard to say but I think the car feels a touch quicker. It’s 10% UD and also 3 lbs less weight for the crank to rotate.

Not worth the money to most. Should be worth a few hp. But at 450 bucks most wont bother
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:03 PM   #14
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We good to go now! Good looking man!!
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