[Black E]

Has anyone tested running less camber on the front on the GY3R’s?
I’m throwing these tires away with what looks like another 4-5 sessions of thread left because the inside cords. So I’m thinking of trying to run less negative camber upfront and see how that goes.
I’m at -2.8, so considering backing of to -2.3/-2.5

[kjchristopher]

What you’re describing is a toe issue, not camber. I run 2.6, zero toe and zero issues.

[Black E]

Originally Posted by kjchristopher

What you’re describing is a toe issue, not camber. I run 2.6, zero toe and zero issues.

I’m taking the car to check the Alingment again but we had set it to 0 toe all around.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Black E

I’m taking the car to check the Alingment again but we had set it to 0 toe all around.

Uh, 0 rear is a terrible idea.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Provoste

Uh, 0 rear is a terrible idea.

Not as bad as some nice toe out

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Provoste

Uh, 0 rear is a terrible idea.

What do you like.... .05 toe in rear works pretty well for me

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

What do you like.... .05 toe in rear works pretty well for me

I’ve found the ZLE is better with a bit more rear toe than the factory recommended track setup. A bit more rear toe helps it slide more progressively.

Most recent alignment for the ZLE was

Front:
-3.0 camber
0 toe

Rear
-1.9 rear camber
.24 total toe in (.12 per side)

[Tim202]

Originally Posted by Provoste

Uh, 0 rear is a terrible idea.

Ut oh, I run 0 rear toe. Why is this bad? I run mostly auto-x and just a couple track days, so I'll take any advice.

[Black E]

Well the recommended track settings calls for +- 0.1-0.05, so is not like 0 is WAY off.
But for the subject of front tire inner wear, 0 toe is most ideal, no?

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Tim202

Ut oh, I run 0 rear toe. Why is this bad? I run mostly auto-x and just a couple track days, so I'll take any advice.

Rear toe aids stability, especially on track. 0 rear toe will have the tendency to make the rear feel snappy and to not slide progressively. Our cars have a long wheelbase and are very rigid cars, so GM doesn't call for a ton of rear toe, but it is important to have some toe in on the rear axle.

[KeithO]

Black E -

While toe can cause this, don't throw out your original idea of less camber to reduce inner tread wear. If you aren't cornering hard on the street and you have normal tire pressures, of course you will have more load on the inner part of the tire with higher camber. ...think about it - if you could get -10 degrees camber it would be even more severe; your situation is just less at -2.8 degrees.

I woke up this morning planning to determine a decent compromise for alignment for the '17 1LE that I bought yesterday. I plan to daily drive it to work (+80 miles roundtrip) and run track days and possibly time trials. Will think more about alignment specs later today - plan to drop off the car tomorrow for the alignment.

Back in the "olden days" with my 1988 IROC Camaro, I used to change camber before and after track events and marked the suspension with the street and track settings. That was easy - jack up the front of the car, loosen the upper bolts, push the top of the suspension towards the correct paint marks, then retighten the bolts. Done. I haven't looked at this 6th gen to see if this is practical.

Anyway, going to zero or marginally positive toe and a reduced camber will definitely show a difference in wear on the street. But of course, it will also reduce front traction under cornering loads on the track...

Right now I am leaning towards 2.2 neg, camber and a tiny amount of toe out in the front as my starting point. But I need to circle back around to this later today when I get time.

Anyone know what the factory alignment specs are for street driving for these cars?

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Back in the "olden days" with my 1988 IROC Camaro, I used to change camber before and after track events and marked the suspension with the street and track settings. That was easy - jack up the front of the car, loosen the upper bolts, push the top of the suspension towards the correct paint marks, then retighten the bolts. Done. I haven't looked at this 6th gen to see if this is practical.

I think that if you change the camber, the toe will also change. Example, I changed the camber to more-negative on one front wheel of my car, and the initial check on an alignment machine then showed that it was now toed-out .04º, whereas on the street alignment done 2 years prior, that wheel had .09º of toe-in.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by KeithO

Black E -

While toe can cause this, don't throw out your original idea of less camber to reduce inner tread wear. If you aren't cornering hard on the street and you have normal tire pressures, of course you will have more load on the inner part of the tire with higher camber. ...think about it - if you could get -10 degrees camber it would be even more severe; your situation is just less at -2.8 degrees.

I woke up this morning planning to determine a decent compromise for alignment for the '17 1LE that I bought yesterday. I plan to daily drive it to work (+80 miles roundtrip) and run track days and possibly time trials. Will think more about alignment specs later today - plan to drop off the car tomorrow for the alignment.

Back in the "olden days" with my 1988 IROC Camaro, I used to change camber before and after track events and marked the suspension with the street and track settings. That was easy - jack up the front of the car, loosen the upper bolts, push the top of the suspension towards the correct paint marks, then retighten the bolts. Done. I haven't looked at this 6th gen to see if this is practical.

Anyway, going to zero or marginally positive toe and a reduced camber will definitely show a difference in wear on the street. But of course, it will also reduce front traction under cornering loads on the track...

Right now I am leaning towards 2.2 neg, camber and a tiny amount of toe out in the front as my starting point. But I need to circle back around to this later today when I get time.

Anyone know what the factory alignment specs are for street driving for these cars?

Factory camber will be around 1.2 all around but may also be all over the place...
I run maxed F at 2.6 and R at 1.6 with a very slight toe out F and toe in R. But by all accounts the car doesn't need any F toe out it seems.
I dont dd my car much, but drive to/from tracks 200-500 miles each way. Track wear is good right across.
2.2 F might be a good compromise, but you'll likely get some excessive outside shoulder wear while on track.
Given your dd distances it might be a good idea to get a second set of rims and harder tread tire for dd?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

I think that if you change the camber, the toe will also change. Example, I changed the camber to more-negative on one front wheel of my car, and the initial check on an alignment machine then showed that it was now toed-out .04º, whereas on the street alignment done 2 years prior, that wheel had .09º of toe-in.

Toe can walk all by itself, especially after 2 yrs of driving.
Btw 0.9 toe out on a single wheel is huge...