Heater Blend Door Hack

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Nghtshd88

Probably go this route.

Good info

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Dogmeat

What I'm still pondering is....WTF is a "KANOB"?? I've always known it to be spelled "KNOB"......

A KANOB is a mustang part

[BLU DUCE]

Originally Posted by camguynj

A KANOB is a mustang part

Yah it's the item sitting behind the steering wheel. Part Number #0

[mikeman]

If you have never disconnected the actuator, I don't see how it would get uncalibrated. The way the blend door is breaking looks to me like a failure in the plastic material of the blend door.

Also, the design of how the actuater is attach to the door could be placing too much stress on that end. It seems to be just a bad design IMO. I mean, how much torque could that little actuator be applying to the blend door?

I wonder if there is a TSB on this issue.

[CamaroBarb]

From what I've read there is a feedback circuit in the actuators that over time wears then the circuit gets dirty from the wear and it doesn't give proper feedback. But i'm just guessing from what little info I can find out on the knet.

I think the actuators can put out quite a bit of force, enough to eventually break the door off. Its like eatting a kelephant one bite ata time.

[uvraise]

Anyone ever replace theirs, only to have it break a second time?

[prod]

Most cars cycle the HVAC doors regularly, it is supposed to keep them from seizing up.
Often they use foam or rubber seals that will stick if not moved for an extended period.
In fact on my dodge caravan, there was a software update after customers complained of sticking blend doors that increased the cycling. You can hear the different doors opening and closing for about 30 seconds after you get in.

[xstuntman]

Anybody that's cut into the plastic housing, what type of bonding agent did you use to glue the plastic back together?

Years ago I had to cut into my '85 Suburbans housing to replace a leaking heater core and since then i've been replacing the black gorilla tape about every two years.

[Camaro2ss2010]

Originally Posted by xstuntman

Anybody that's cut into the plastic housing, what type of bonding agent did you use to glue the plastic back together?

Years ago I had to cut into my '85 Suburbans housing to replace a leaking heater core and since then i've been replacing the black gorilla tape about every two years.

You can do it with a soldering iron. With practice you can make it smooth.

[Nghtshd88]

Originally Posted by Camaro2ss2010

You can do it with a soldering iron. With practice you can make it smooth.

I used a soldering iron. Seemed easier than cutting but leaves too big of a gap. Also it melts the start and finish points to the other piece so it is hard to remove.

Used silicone and that black gorilla tape to put it back.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by prod

Most cars cycle the HVAC doors regularly, it is supposed to keep them from seizing up.
Often they use foam or rubber seals that will stick if not moved for an extended period.
In fact on my dodge caravan, there was a software update after customers complained of sticking blend doors that increased the cycling. You can hear the different doors opening and closing for about 30 seconds after you get in.

Makes sense. As the blend door fittings in 5th gens are just plastic on plastic I’d really like to know if GM instructions call for them to be lubed when replacing a blend door? If not that implies the fitting stubs aren’t lubed at the factory which maybe the significant factor for door failures if the actuator torque tolerance mechanism starts to fail.

[mikeman]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Makes sense. As the blend door fittings in 5th gens are just plastic on plastic I’d really like to know if GM instructions call for them to be lubed when replacing a blend door? If not that implies the fitting stubs aren’t lubed at the factory which maybe the significant factor for door failures if the actuator torque tolerance mechanism starts to fail.

The fitting stubs are probably some type of slippery nylon plastic and they usually don't need any grease or lube. Thinking about it more, any kind of lube could cake up/dry up and make it more resistant to turning which would be a bad thing in an application like this.

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by mikeman

If you zoom in, you can see the GM part number. They're both the same. I don't know, would GM make a change and keep the same part number?

I never said they were not the same part, they're not facing the same
direction for a comparison. That was in response to the, are the newer
ones made a little better.

The PART# will be the same, the revision is an updated part.
One says CAV2 the right part says CAV2 J. There is a "C" to the right
of the part# on the right side part.

Again, he did a comparison, but an incomplete one. He faced one to the
right, and one to the left. So, we can all sit here and make guesses when
we can't see both sides, both facing the same way for a comparison.

Originally Posted by mikeman

The fitting stubs are probably some type of slippery nylon plastic and they usually don't need any grease or lube. Thinking about it more, any kind of lube could cake up/dry up and make it more resistant to turning which would be a bad thing in an application like this.

That's what silicone lube is for. No debris or dust catching. There is a dry
silicone too, like a powder.

[Gordo-D]

And this is progress. :(