P0336 code - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

flyinglow57 · 10-21-2019, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G8One2

Going through the sensor, that would be an acceptable reading. I would suspect something wrong with the trigger wheel, only because I've seen the same fault with trigger wheels on camshafts that are broke. But I would be doing exactly what your doing, checking the circuits first to make sure it's 100% not that.

How does the trigger wheel have anything to do with this though. The sensor is on my work bench. The connector is what i was probing for the 5v on the reference. And 3” off the ecu is where im getting 2.5v. Nothing is connected to the engine or sensor

G8One2 · 10-21-2019, 08:06 PM

Because a damaged trigger wheel will not output the hall effect signal the ECM is expecting to see, because of this, the ECM cant properly adjust or advanced ignition timing. But if something is wrong with the circuit, it could have the same effect. You should see 5v on the REF circuit only with nothing else connected. If your only getting 2.5v on the ref wire, i would unplug the ECM connector and look at the pins. Sorry, i sort of speed read through the thread, didnt quite understand what it was you were saying. I was putting in my 2 cents on past experiences.

flyinglow57 · 10-21-2019, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G8One2

Because a damaged trigger wheel will not output the hall effect signal the ECM is expecting to see, because of this, the ECM cant properly adjust or advanced ignition timing. But if something is wrong with the circuit, it could have the same effect. You should see 5v on the REF circuit only with nothing else connected. If your only getting 2.5v on the ref wire, i would unplug the ECM connector and look at the pins. Sorry, i sort of speed read through the thread, didnt quite understand what it was you were saying. I was putting in my 2 cents on past experiences.

The pins are perfect it was never apart before today.

G8One2 · 10-21-2019, 08:44 PM

Well the voltage should only be less than 5v when it's connected and the circuit is complete, as if you were back probing it. When the 5v isnt coming back through the signal return wire, the ecm should push out a full 5v in the ref. Since it's not, I would think the ECM thinks its there somehow. I would start checking for a short to ground or short to power in the signal return or the signal wire. Pinched wires.

flyinglow57 · 10-21-2019, 08:48 PM

Ok. I rehooked wires up. I have a jumper wire from 3” off he sensor connection to 3” from ecu. I got 2.5 volts as the engine cranks then 0 then 2.5 just as it passes the reluctor wheel but still cant get the code to clear.

You still think i should jump the reference and ground?

G8One2 · 10-21-2019, 09:01 PM

Idk man, sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to be doing as far as the sensor and wiring. But I've been wrong before. Wouldn't be the first time.

zlathim · 10-22-2019, 11:16 AM

I doubt this will help you since you are getting good voltage values at the connector, but on the off chance it can help I'm gonna post up.

I had a very similar problem after removing and reinstalling my transmission. I fought with it for days until I decided to remove the passenger side header to get a better look at the wiring. This is what I found:

The wire loom was pinched between the bell housing and the engine block. After I got the loom "un-pinched" and removed the plastic loom, I found this:

I repaired the wires and I haven't had any trouble since then.

flyinglow57 · 10-22-2019, 06:16 PM

I removed the whole connector and ran new wires up to the top of the valve cover. This removed the chance of a burnt wire to the crank. Basically exactly as above. Then i took it for a drive. And still had a bad miss all through the rpm range. I logged the short term fuel trim. Pass side was +/- 2. The drivers side was +25+. My friend said i had to have a air leak.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and no change in idle. I decided to pull it off. And i pulled the plugs to look at the plug ends. Intake seemed good put it back on. And then i found a MAJOR problem. 2 plugs totally broken and a major crack in one. 3 bad plugs on one side. Changed them with plugs i just pulled from my wifes tahoe. And it runs perfect. Still has the p0336 code but i hear that mY take a while to clear

Cliffs:

Thank you to all that helped. I believe i pinched a crank sensor signal wire but replaced all 3 and i must have crushed the plugs with my header putting it in last time

10-21-2019, 08:48 PM	#19
flyinglow57 Drives: rumble bee,2SS 6sp Join Date: May 2009 Location: pittsburgh, PA Posts: 539	Ok. I rehooked wires up. I have a jumper wire from 3” off he sensor connection to 3” from ecu. I got 2.5 volts as the engine cranks then 0 then 2.5 just as it passes the reluctor wheel but still cant get the code to clear. You still think i should jump the reference and ground? __________________ blk 2ss 6spd with sunroof. intake,tsp cam,full exhaust,pcmforless tune,trailing arms,toe rods. hopeing for 11.9 because my g/f said she will take the cam and the suspension back if not.

10-22-2019, 11:16 AM	#21
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I doubt this will help you since you are getting good voltage values at the connector, but on the off chance it can help I'm gonna post up. I had a very similar problem after removing and reinstalling my transmission. I fought with it for days until I decided to remove the passenger side header to get a better look at the wiring. This is what I found: The wire loom was pinched between the bell housing and the engine block. After I got the loom "un-pinched" and removed the plastic loom, I found this: I repaired the wires and I haven't had any trouble since then. __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

10-22-2019, 06:16 PM	#22
flyinglow57 Drives: rumble bee,2SS 6sp Join Date: May 2009 Location: pittsburgh, PA Posts: 539	I removed the whole connector and ran new wires up to the top of the valve cover. This removed the chance of a burnt wire to the crank. Basically exactly as above. Then i took it for a drive. And still had a bad miss all through the rpm range. I logged the short term fuel trim. Pass side was +/- 2. The drivers side was +25+. My friend said i had to have a air leak. I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and no change in idle. I decided to pull it off. And i pulled the plugs to look at the plug ends. Intake seemed good put it back on. And then i found a MAJOR problem. 2 plugs totally broken and a major crack in one. 3 bad plugs on one side. Changed them with plugs i just pulled from my wifes tahoe. And it runs perfect. Still has the p0336 code but i hear that mY take a while to clear Cliffs: Thank you to all that helped. I believe i pinched a crank sensor signal wire but replaced all 3 and i must have crushed the plugs with my header putting it in last time Attached Images __________________ blk 2ss 6spd with sunroof. intake,tsp cam,full exhaust,pcmforless tune,trailing arms,toe rods. hopeing for 11.9 because my g/f said she will take the cam and the suspension back if not.

10-21-2019, 08:06 PM	#16
G8One2 Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 492	Because a damaged trigger wheel will not output the hall effect signal the ECM is expecting to see, because of this, the ECM cant properly adjust or advanced ignition timing. But if something is wrong with the circuit, it could have the same effect. You should see 5v on the REF circuit only with nothing else connected. If your only getting 2.5v on the ref wire, i would unplug the ECM connector and look at the pins. Sorry, i sort of speed read through the thread, didnt quite understand what it was you were saying. I was putting in my 2 cents on past experiences.

10-21-2019, 08:44 PM	#18
G8One2 Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 492	Well the voltage should only be less than 5v when it's connected and the circuit is complete, as if you were back probing it. When the 5v isnt coming back through the signal return wire, the ecm should push out a full 5v in the ref. Since it's not, I would think the ECM thinks its there somehow. I would start checking for a short to ground or short to power in the signal return or the signal wire. Pinched wires.

10-21-2019, 09:01 PM	#20
G8One2 Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 492	Idk man, sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to be doing as far as the sensor and wiring. But I've been wrong before. Wouldn't be the first time.