Question about BMR arms

EMTNLSS · 08-31-2016, 01:36 AM

With all the BMR arms they have adjustable and non-adjustable. What is the benefit of each?

I understand the control arm because that's for camber.

For the trailing arms though what is the purpose of those being adjustable? Would I be fine with the non adjustable if it was mostly for daily and some spirited canyon driving and rarely a track day.

I also plan on lowering with springs.

Thanks!

bdar66 · 08-31-2016, 08:47 AM

i think its for when you put lowering springs on the car

BMR Tech · 08-31-2016, 09:48 AM

The idea of the adjustable components is to allow for added alignment adjustment for lowered cars. If you plan to keep the car stock height then the non-adjustable components will work for you. If you plan to lower it, then adjustable is the way to go. Either components will greatly reduce wheel hop and deflection. The non-adjustable poly pieces will deliver less NVH transference, but will not offer the alignment correction of the adjustable pieces. However the rod end pieces will deliver the optimal performance as they will have no deflection

EMTNLSS · 08-31-2016, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Tech

The idea of the adjustable components is to allow for added alignment adjustment for lowered cars. If you plan to keep the car stock height then the non-adjustable components will work for you. If you plan to lower it, then adjustable is the way to go. Either components will greatly reduce wheel hop and deflection. The non-adjustable poly pieces will deliver less NVH transference, but will not offer the alignment correction of the adjustable pieces. However the rod end pieces will deliver the optimal performance as they will have no deflection

Alright thanks for the reply! I'll plan on getting the adjustable ones then since I plan on lowering it with springs and maybe coilovers in the future.

BMR Tech · 08-31-2016, 02:10 PM

No problem! Give me a call and I will get you all fixed up!

JaxChris · 09-01-2016, 12:14 AM

If you plan to go with coilovers and drop a lot of height, you'll definitely want the adjustable arms and rods.

The single adjustable are designed to provide more adjustment range. The double adjustable are an extension of the singles, but with the added benefit that you don't need to touch a single bolt to change your angles. Just loosen both nuts and turn the center. Tighten nuts to lock it in.

The trailing arms are the biggest help in reducing wheel hop. I went fixed on mine with the springs because I wanted the least NVH increase possible and didn't plan to go lower than 1", which is within the range of the factory eccentric bolts.

EMTNLSS · 09-01-2016, 07:38 PM

Ok so what arms would you recommend getting first. Trailing arms? or would some like the lockout kit be better?

JaxChris · 09-01-2016, 08:30 PM

You have the A8, so can you do both in your budget? It will save you big time in labor to do them at the same time. The trailing arms alone really fix the wheel hop, but then you can spin the tires and the cradle bushings will allow a lot of yaw angle deflection. No hop, but you will get a little fish tail going.

As I pointed out to another member in their thread, the A8 has far more torque multiplication in 1st gear than the M6 and therefore we will have wheel hop stock, when they do not. We really need to get both before throwing the better wheels and tires on the car so we can put it all down to the pavement.

EMTNLSS · 09-01-2016, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaxChris

You have the A8, so can you do both in your budget? It will save you big time in labor to do them at the same time. The trailing arms alone really fix the wheel hop, but then you can spin the tires and the cradle bushings will allow a lot of yaw angle deflection. No hop, but you will get a little fish tail going.

As I pointed out to another member in their thread, the A8 has far more torque multiplication in 1st gear than the M6 and therefore we will have wheel hop stock, when they do not. We really need to get both before throwing the better wheels and tires on the car so we can put it all down to the pavement.

Alright thanks for the help! I'm looking to get springs first. Probably the AFE ones since I like the stance of those. Then i'll look into getting the trailing arms and cradle lockout kit.

JaxChris · 09-01-2016, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTNLSS

Alright thanks for the help! I'm looking to get springs first. Probably the AFE ones since I like the stance of those. Then i'll look into getting the trailing arms and cradle lockout kit.

Be careful. Mixing brands in a post like that might get a vendor on here to ask you to call them and they'll cut you a break to do a package deal. =)

Good luck with your projects and remember to not be a stranger around here. Ask questions and show off your results. =)

08-31-2016, 01:36 AM	#1
EMTNLSS Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue 2SS Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Layton, UT Posts: 498	Question about BMR arms With all the BMR arms they have adjustable and non-adjustable. What is the benefit of each? I understand the control arm because that's for camber. For the trailing arms though what is the purpose of those being adjustable? Would I be fine with the non adjustable if it was mostly for daily and some spirited canyon driving and rarely a track day. I also plan on lowering with springs. Thanks! __________________ 2SS Hyper Blue Metallic \| A8 \| Jet Black Interior \| NPP Exhaust Current Mods: Catch Can \| aFe Lowering Springs \| GM 2nd Gen Splitter \| Hotchkis Sway Bars \| MRR FS02 Wheels \| Flowmaster Exhaust \| Dark Tail Lights \| Diode Dynamics Sidemarkers \| Roto Fab \| Solar TB \| PRAY Ported IM \| BMR \| PRAY Tune Upcoming Mods:

09-01-2016, 07:38 PM	#7
EMTNLSS Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue 2SS Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Layton, UT Posts: 498	Ok so what arms would you recommend getting first. Trailing arms? or would some like the lockout kit be better? __________________ 2SS Hyper Blue Metallic \| A8 \| Jet Black Interior \| NPP Exhaust Current Mods: Catch Can \| aFe Lowering Springs \| GM 2nd Gen Splitter \| Hotchkis Sway Bars \| MRR FS02 Wheels \| Flowmaster Exhaust \| Dark Tail Lights \| Diode Dynamics Sidemarkers \| Roto Fab \| Solar TB \| PRAY Ported IM \| BMR \| PRAY Tune Upcoming Mods: Last edited by EMTNLSS; 09-01-2016 at 07:50 PM.

08-31-2016, 08:47 AM	#2
bdar66 Drives: 2016 camaro lt2 rs Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: buffalo ny Posts: 137	i think its for when you put lowering springs on the car

08-31-2016, 09:48 AM	#3
BMR Tech Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 256	The idea of the adjustable components is to allow for added alignment adjustment for lowered cars. If you plan to keep the car stock height then the non-adjustable components will work for you. If you plan to lower it, then adjustable is the way to go. Either components will greatly reduce wheel hop and deflection. The non-adjustable poly pieces will deliver less NVH transference, but will not offer the alignment correction of the adjustable pieces. However the rod end pieces will deliver the optimal performance as they will have no deflection

08-31-2016, 02:10 PM	#5
BMR Tech Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 256	No problem! Give me a call and I will get you all fixed up!

09-01-2016, 12:14 AM	#6
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	If you plan to go with coilovers and drop a lot of height, you'll definitely want the adjustable arms and rods. The single adjustable are designed to provide more adjustment range. The double adjustable are an extension of the singles, but with the added benefit that you don't need to touch a single bolt to change your angles. Just loosen both nuts and turn the center. Tighten nuts to lock it in. The trailing arms are the biggest help in reducing wheel hop. I went fixed on mine with the springs because I wanted the least NVH increase possible and didn't plan to go lower than 1", which is within the range of the factory eccentric bolts.

09-01-2016, 08:30 PM	#8
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	You have the A8, so can you do both in your budget? It will save you big time in labor to do them at the same time. The trailing arms alone really fix the wheel hop, but then you can spin the tires and the cradle bushings will allow a lot of yaw angle deflection. No hop, but you will get a little fish tail going. As I pointed out to another member in their thread, the A8 has far more torque multiplication in 1st gear than the M6 and therefore we will have wheel hop stock, when they do not. We really need to get both before throwing the better wheels and tires on the car so we can put it all down to the pavement.

User Name		Remember Me?
Password