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Old 10-13-2022, 04:26 PM   #1
SSVictor
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS
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P0716 P0700 need help

Was sitting at a red light and I felt a small jerk and and the car wouldn’t shift even when I tried to manually shift it was just stuck on S. It was requiring a lot of power to move from a stop and it went away after I turned it off and back on, but the engine light is still there and i can feel it driving a little rough in the low rpms. I got these codes. It has headers, cam, and converter.


P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
Secondary DTCs
P0700 : Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
P0010: Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P3401: Cylinder 1 Deactivation Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P2272: HO2S Signal Stuck Lean Bank 2 Sensor 2

Last edited by SSVictor; 10-13-2022 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 10-15-2022, 07:51 PM   #2
1JEWLDSSRS


 
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Well guess what? My Camaro JUST did this almost exact thing the other day. I was leaving a park and was in manual mode second gear and got on it and lit up the tires and hit the rev limiter and it shifted to 3rd gear like it was supposed to, rolled up to the stop sign and stopped, car seemed fine, went to shift into manual first gear, as I always use my paddle shifters around town and it would not shift, I noticed it was in S mode, "sport", which I didn't put it there, should have been still in M2, and the "S" was blinking, put it in "D" and the D was blinking, I thought what the hell?? Went to throttle up and get going and the car just revved up a lot and then started to move, but it was't moving very well, I have a 4500 stall converter. I noticed that the trans was not shifting either, along with the converter wasn't even locking up at all and it was getting very hot, 215 degrees. Was doing about 35 mph and was turning 3800 rpms, not good. So at the next light I called my Chevy tech friend that works on my Camaro and told him what was going on and how the car was acting and he told me that the "speed sensor" in the trans is probably on it's way out, and quite possible have a bad "pressure sensor" selenoid acting up. He told me sometimes you can "reset" the TCM by pulling over and shut the car down for a few minutes, I did that and all is back to normal, care drove home just fine after that with no other issues. So the next day I pulled the code, and it was the same P0716 that you got, the P700 code is the TCM setting the "CEL LIGHT". As for the other codes, I got the exact same ones!! Go figure that one, ha!! So we have a new "speed sensor" selenoid on order along with a rebuild kit for the "pressure sensor module" to fix the problem. He also told me that with my mileage 126k on my trans that it is NOT unusual for that to happen. Here is the rebuild kit for the 6l80 trans "pressure selenoid" switches. The dealerships and some shops deem this TEHCM unit in the trans as an "unservicable" part and want to replace it for 600 bucks, is what he told me, whereas you can rebuild them. I have a great, honest tech. Good luck sir!!

https://www.amazon.com/124740-TL30-P...94772691&psc=1
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Last edited by 1JEWLDSSRS; 10-17-2022 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 10-15-2022, 10:17 PM   #3
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I had the flashing 'S' and inability to shift happen to me once, but under different circumstances from you guys.

I loaded up the stock convertor and launched from a red light and pegged against the rev limiter. The trans never shifted to 2nd, then it felt like I hit a fuel cut, but it wasn't a fuel cut. It almost felt like the trans...disengaged? I noticed that the S was flashing and it wouldn't shift normally until I power cycled the car. I assumed that maybe I somehow was low on trans fluid and maybe sloshed the pan when I took off, sucking up air - but when I checked the trans fluid it was fine.

I don't remember if I got codes since this was over a year ago. Pretty sure that any L99 car that has VVT deleted will always have the P0010 code since it's looking for a cam phaser, but should be tuned to ignore it. As for P3401, that's a weird one for us to have - AFM related?. P2272 shouldn't matter for our cars once we tune reporting off on the rear sensors, but still weird that you are getting a 'signal stuck' error.

Do you guys still have rear sensors connected and tucked away or did you remove them entirely? I removed mine.
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Old 10-17-2022, 08:56 AM   #4
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Hey there. Yea I still have the rears, just turned off. And on the shifting, or NOT shifting, he told me that these 6l80's when they detect an issue with the speed sensor and it sets a CEL that the TCM will default the trans to 3rd gear, hence is why I couldn't go over 35 mph and 3800 rpm as the converter wouldn't lockup, and I noticed it wasn't shifting. So when I recycled the car and it was back to normal, I checked it out, 3rd gear manual mode at 35 mph the converter was locked and rpms were at 2800, which is around where it should be. And yea I was thinking the same thing about the fluid, maybe when I hit the bump with the rear tires, and the limiter at the same time, it sloshed the fluid and sucked some air, he said that's possible, that I could ride it out and see how she runs. But me being cautious about my Camaro and any issues, decided to replace the parts, for good insurance that it never happens again, so I don't get stuck somewhere and can't drive her, and have to have her towed. Just me.
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Old 10-17-2022, 01:20 PM   #5
Koelzmod
 
Drives: 2013 SS Camaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Well guess what? My Camaro JUST did this almost exact thing the other day. I was leaving a park and was in manual mode second gear and got on it and lit up the tires and hit the rev limiter and it shifted to 3rd gear like it was supposed to, rolled up to the stop sign and stopped, car seemed fine, went to shift into manual first gear, as I always use my paddle shifters around town and it would not shift, I noticed it was in S mode, "sport", which I didn't put it there, should have been still in M2, and the "S" was blinking, put it in "D" and the D was blinking, I thought what the hell?? Went to throttle up and get going and the car just revved up a lot and then started to move, but it was't moving very well, I have a 4500 stall converter. I noticed that the trans was not shifting either, along with the converter wasn't even locking up at all and it was getting very hot, 215 degrees. Was doing about 35 mph and was turning 3800 rpms, not good. So at the next light I called my Chevy tech friend that works on my Camaro and told him what was going on and how the car was acting and he told me that the "speed sensor" in the trans is probably on it's way out, and quite possible have a bad "pressure sensor" selenoid acting up. He told me sometimes you can "reset" the TCM by pulling over and shut the car down for a few minutes, I did that and all is back to normal, care drove home just fine after that with no other issues. So the next day I pulled the code, and it was the same P0716 that you got, the P700 code is the TCM setting the "CEL LIGHT". As for the other codes, I got the exact same ones!! Go figure that one, ha!! So we have a new "speed sensor" selenoid on order along with a rebuild kit for the "pressure sensor module" to fix the problem. He also told me that with my mileage 126k on my trans that it is NOT unusual for that to happen. Here is the rebuild kit for the 6l80 trans "pressure selenoid" switches. The dealerships and some shops deem this TEHCM unit in the trans as an "unservicable" part and want to replace it for 600 bucks, is what he told me, whereas you can rebuild them. I have a great, honest tech. Good luck sir!!

https://www.amazon.com/124740-TL30-P...94772691&psc=1
Do you have to do any programming to the TEHCM after you replace the seals and discs in the pressure sensor module?

Last edited by Koelzmod; 10-17-2022 at 01:24 PM. Reason: add words
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Old 10-17-2022, 01:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Do you have to do any programming to the TEHCM after you replace the seals and discs in the pressure sensor module?
By any chance do you know the part number for the speed sensor solenoid?
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Old 10-18-2022, 04:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koelzmod View Post
Do you have to do any programming to the TEHCM after you replace the seals and discs in the pressure sensor module?
No sir, only if you replace the entire TEHCM with a new one, from what I gather, and read on the Sonnax website. Then you would have to reprogram it to your tune, be it stock or modded.
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Old 10-18-2022, 04:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koelzmod View Post
By any chance do you know the part number for the speed sensor solenoid?
I talked with my tech, and both the input speed sensor and output speed sensor are in the same harness, so when you replace it, you get both. The P0716 code I got, and the OP, is for the INPUT speed sensor. Here is the GM part number, 24284707 if you want to order it from GM. Here is the pic of the one he ordered for me from TRANSTAR..

https://www.transtar1.com/products/e...-for-GM-6L80-6
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Old 01-15-2023, 01:00 PM   #9
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OK guys, since we haven't heard back from the OP on his issue, here is an update on mine after the repairs were done. First off I had no idea that I was experiencing any trans issues until that one WOT pull in 2nd gear and then the "limp mode", CEL and no shift until I shut the car down and let her set for a few minutes and started her back and all was fine after that. So I took her into the shop to have the repairs done and my tech had ordered the pressure switch diaphram/laminates rebuild kit from Sonnax, just in case we needed them, sometimes they are fine, sometimes they aren't. Good thing we ordered them as all 4 of mine were blown out when we got to them!! First pic is what they should look like, second pic is what mine looked like. Like I said, I never knew I had any shifting problems because they were STILL working, just not at 100%. Never got any switch codes because none of them failed, just the input speed sensor that malfunctioned.

Name:  laminate and seals.jpg
Views: 371
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Name:  TEHCM LAMINATES.jpg
Views: 360
Size:  163.4 KB

After we got it all back together I asked my tech if I would notice any difference in how she shifted, and he said, not sure since I said it was shifting normally as to what I thought. Well guess what, I guess all along and not sure for how long but I guess it wasn't shifting normally so I thought. I guess the pressure switches were bad for some time, and I didn't even know it. Well now the trans shifts more precisely, quicker, a bit firmer throughout all the gears and RPM ranges, from normal driving to the WOT pulls I do once in a while!! It's almost like I got a new trans with a new tune! So I did some reading on the Sonnax website about the 6l80 transmission TECHEM functions and it said, after replacing the bad laminates for the pressure switches you will notice a difference in the shifting patterns and smoothness. Seems as the "input speed sensor" receives data from the engine RPM's and sends it to the "output speed sensor" to the pressure module to preform its functions in a timely and precise manner to facilitate the shifting. No more erratic shifts up or down, or any more flares. I did experience some flares but they didn't happen all the time, so I didn't pay any attention to them. But now we are all good. Here is the reading info.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...m-applications

And for you guys that want to DIY the project, here is a short video to watch.



And some more info. Hope this all helps you guys and gals out!!

https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...f?v=1539892125
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Old 01-17-2023, 07:41 AM   #10
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Bump, good info for you guys who might be having any issues with your 6l80 transmission.
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