11-05-2017, 12:56 AM | #1 |
More then meets the eye!
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ls3 valve springs
I'm going to change my valve springs, and I want to pressurize the cylinder with compressed air. to hold the valves up. How much air can I pressurize the cylinder with, without hurting the rings? after this I can do the Whipple install.
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2010 2SS/RS, M6, OBX 7/8" l/t headers, with high flow cats, MBRP full 3" exhaust, Whipple supercharger, 3.875 pulley, ID-1050X 1260CC injectors, JRE rough idle street blower cam kit, ZL1 fp, ZL1 fpcm, ZR1 3 bar map sensor, cold air intake, Richman 4.10 gears, BMR toe rods, trailing arms, f/r sway bars, f/r sway bar end links, BMR end link brackets, full BMR poly bushing including solid rear cradle bushings, BMR frame connectors and tunnel brace, f/r Hurst swaybar bushing brackets, Fluidamper, MGR shifter, and tune by Jannetty Racing.
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11-05-2017, 07:14 AM | #2 |
Dan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS IOM Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Georgia, USA not the other one
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Last time I did this - I just used 120lbs of air....
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Dan
2010 IOM SS YSI-B, Pat G Cam, Ported CTS-V Heads, ARH LTs MBRP 3" exhaust http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...&highlight=ysi |
11-05-2017, 07:22 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
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I think I used 90 psi last time I did valve springs. What tool do you have?
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Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
11-05-2017, 08:15 AM | #4 |
Drives: 02 Z06, 95 Trans Am, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southeast
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Nothing your air compressor could put out would ever hurt those rings.
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11-05-2017, 08:29 AM | #5 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,587
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Yes whatever you can put out, yet.....4:10 gears are pretty steep hopefully your nice to the things as I have heard over the years the higher you go the more prone to breakage and the only cases I heard of were 4:10- 4:11 as the teeth get so small and if your draggin that's a shock even with all the suspension mods I baby my axles until someday I can get some 1000 hp drag axles and or a zl1 rear... Good Luck I know its hard getting help in Hawaii...And a whipple...More likely to make too much boost for stock hypereutectic ....2300-2900? Your going to have to keep it turned down, and I don't see on your list of mods a cam..... so worrying about the springs? I would too with boost and want duals....
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11-05-2017, 08:29 AM | #6 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
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You'll find the sweet spot. Too little and the valve will open when compressing the spring. Too much and the motor will spin.
Once pressurized, tapping the retainer with a socket and heavy rubber hammer helps to free up the locks. They can tend to bond themselves to the retainer/valve. If the valve just keeps going down when using the spring removal tool. Tap on the retainer again with the socket and hammer. Some can be stubborn if on there a while. I have a BBC drag motor that after a season of racing, takes a small sledge/socket whack with about 140lbs in the cyl to break them free. If you tap the retainer top with a socket and hammer, and air pressure pops out...the locks are stuck. As soon as they free up, the hit will just bounce the spring without the air pop. Then crank down the spring remover. |
11-05-2017, 02:22 PM | #7 | |
More then meets the eye!
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My son has been helping me cause I have back problems, he into turbo Subaru’s, since he’s been helping me he seems interested on doing most of the work, he says it’s easier then working on his car. I told him “you weren’t here when I had to center the oil pump, then the timing cover” it wasn’t that bad, just takes time. I told him it’s just a lot of little details when putting thing back together.
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2010 2SS/RS, M6, OBX 7/8" l/t headers, with high flow cats, MBRP full 3" exhaust, Whipple supercharger, 3.875 pulley, ID-1050X 1260CC injectors, JRE rough idle street blower cam kit, ZL1 fp, ZL1 fpcm, ZR1 3 bar map sensor, cold air intake, Richman 4.10 gears, BMR toe rods, trailing arms, f/r sway bars, f/r sway bar end links, BMR end link brackets, full BMR poly bushing including solid rear cradle bushings, BMR frame connectors and tunnel brace, f/r Hurst swaybar bushing brackets, Fluidamper, MGR shifter, and tune by Jannetty Racing.
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11-06-2017, 11:14 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2002 M3, LS3, TR6060 Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 31
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I've done a few by just rotating the engine, so each piston is at TDC when you're working on it, that way there's 0 chance of the valves falling in.
No air needed, much easier and faster. Just stick a long straw in the spark plug hole until you feel the piston at the highest positions. |
11-10-2017, 03:18 AM | #9 | |
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11-14-2017, 10:31 PM | #10 | |
SoCal
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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11-14-2017, 11:08 PM | #11 |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
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Agreed, safest was to insure no dropped valves...
-Don
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11-15-2017, 05:29 PM | #12 | |
Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
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