super or turbo

[RichieFlorida]

Off the shelf a paxton Novi 2000 can handle 18 psi. I have 24,000 miles on a current set-up running 15lbs on 93 octane. 920rwhp. I use the 10 rib belt that you can purchase at NAPA. The pulleys are custom made by a friend of mine Doug Levin from DLM. Here is a nice TT set-up on my friend Johns car. All work performed at Heffners.

[Mr. Wyndham]

Very Nice:eek:...though...if that's the supercharger...where's the belt? Under all those pipes that I don't know what they do?

And those are aftermarket body re-enforcements, too aren't they?

Ohhh, I'm such a beginner at this stuff...

[TFord]

hey dragon thats a picture of his friends car with a TT setup.

[Mindz]

Originally Posted by Dragoneye

I'm right with you on the 3 years thing, more like 5 for me though. But It's amazing how simple some of this stuff is once you get to understanding it!

missiles, huh. strap a few to the sides of the Camaro...lol, then you'll beat EVERYTHING on the 1/4 mile

For a cheap alternative, check these guys out.

[MerF]

Originally Posted by TFord

well I was trying to keep it short...but MerF I do totally disagree with you on what I got quoted. detonation even on a naturally aspirated vehicle wears down the cylinder wall. I had to pull out the TECH MANUAL on ya!

Woot! I love technical discussions. The tech description was sorta a combination of what we both were saying, just more jumbled up. I didnt' say you were completely wrong, just needed to clear things up.

Now as for...

Consequences of Knocking
Engine knocking has disastrous consequences for the engine, since it leads to the catastrophical wear of the combustion chamber walls, through particle wear for moderate knocking, to welding for serious knocking. This is due to the contact between those walls and high temperature gases resulting from the unwanted explosion. The processes also lead to a 'knocking' noise for the engine, that give its name to the phenomenon.

...I'd just like to point out that you were quoted saying the CYLINDER WALLS, and I corrected that by saying...

The cylinders won't even feel the effects of pinging. The damage is done on the head, piston, and rotating assembly.

The bolded quote from the manual said "combustion chamber", not "cylinder" (see red above). The cylinder is the entire area that the piston travels up and down. The combustion chamber is the very top of the "engine"....where the piston is compressing the mixture to prepare for ignition...and the only parts there are the piston, the head, and a small area of the cylinder.

[MerF]

Originally Posted by Dragoneye

I just saw this statement...what do you mean by "engine tuning"? i assume it's not just bolt 'n drive, huh?

Ahh. Well, the way fule injection works, is that the computer is monitoring the amount of air that comes into the engine, most commonly via a sensor known as the MAF (Mass Air-Flow)...sometimes cars use MAP instead, but it's the same in principal. The computer is already programmed from the factory with equations and algorithms that compute the amount of fuel applied to each cycle of the fuel injectors by modifying the flow rate, pressure (sometimes), duty cycle (how long it sprays), etc of each injector.

The computer monitors that air sensor, PLUS the throttle level (via a sensor knows as the TPS..throttle-position sensor), PLUS the feedback from the circuit of O2 sensors (monitoring how much fuel was left in the burnt exhaust), PLUS engine temperature, PLUS knock sensor....there's more I'm sure that I'm leaving out...anyway, it takes ALL OF THIS information and adjusts the air/fuel mixture accordingly. The GM Factory programmed your run-of-the-mill LS2 (for example) to run N/A (naturally aspirated...no boost). So if you start FORCING more air into the mixture, without telling the computer about it, then you have a serious danger of not adding enough fuel to compensate for the extra air...and you will very quickly have yourself in a LEAN condition. This is why you really want a competent tuner to re-program your car's ECU (or aftermarket system) when making a major change like adding forced induction (turbo/super).

Contrary to what I thought before I started playing with turbos...having more AIR in the mix is more dangerous than more FUEL. The FUEL actually cools the mixture down, an engine running rich (overabundance of fuel in the mix) will be sluggish and boggy. The more fuel you remove (or air you add) the hotter the explosion will be, and more heat/explosions means more power. The trick is to get the mixture as LEAN as possible without damaging things...when you start pre-detonation/pinging you know you've gone past the point of making the most power safely and need to add more fuel back into the mix.

Sorry, I write novels...I just love this shit.

[TFord]

Originally Posted by MerF

Sorry, I write novels...I just love this shit.

ditto MerF

[TFord]

hey I found a vid of turbo'd camaro, theres more but I dont promote street racing, but check this out

http://youtube.com/watch?v=HhTNMAVCL...elated&search=

[Mr. Wyndham]

So, can most mechanics tune the car in this way, or are there specialists I would have to find.

And,

I've been looking around at different supercharger sites (which I don't know who's the best), but what's the difference between a Supercharger "kit", and just a supercharger.

[twigg107]

Most mechanics think they can tune but end up blowing motors, There are several shops around the usa that do tuning. I know a little about tuning but I would never trust myself to do it even on my own car!!!

I seen your from new york and this shop is in East Hartford, CT but considered one of the best tuners around. lets just say I'd trust them if I was close too them!!

http://www.xxtuning.com/

[Mindz]

I think I'm gonna go with a single turbo as I won't be doing much stoplight racing.

It'd be nice to have the top down cruising when I run into a porsche (my stepdad) on the freeway or something. He's got a c4 Cab 2001 Coral Blue. (non turbo but still fast)

"Look at this unrefined stoplight beast. Let's see him keep up from a roll..."

*porsche downshifts to 3 and proceeds to take off*

"HAHAHA I love my expensive por.....wha'ts that whistling?"

*I start pulling off waving to the rear view mirror*

[The_Stache]

Dragon

A kit comes with more than just the charger (ie comes with inter cooler, piping, belts, gaskets, tuner stuff to change the burn on the eeprom, ect) and depends on the "completeness" of the kit. You can get some basic kits that come with just the charger and belt system all the way up to kit A that comes with everything you need to go from the garage to the strip.

A charger itself is just that, just the charger and nothing more and requires you to build your own "setup" from other parts purchased separately.

Generally you want to reference and find out exactly what comes with what your purchasing and ensure that you have all your bases covered (oh and its the same process with turbo's and turbo kits).

[MerF]

Originally Posted by Mindz

I think I'm gonna go with a single turbo as I won't be doing much stoplight racing.

It'd be nice to have the top down cruising when I run into a porsche (my stepdad) on the freeway or something. He's got a c4 Cab 2001 Coral Blue. (non turbo but still fast)

"Look at this unrefined stoplight beast. Let's see him keep up from a roll..."

*porsche downshifts to 3 and proceeds to take off*

"HAHAHA I love my expensive por.....wha'ts that whistling?"

*I start pulling off waving to the rear view mirror*

I lived for those moments in the Supra.

[Mr. Wyndham]

All right. Now, Forced Induction doesn't seem as worth it now...

I do have two last questions, then I think everything I want to know is covered.

If you buy a Super/turbo (whatever) charger kits made specifically for your car, does it include instructions or guides of any kind, usually?

And secondly, What's the best Supercharger Manufacturer, and how do I go about buying one of these things, i.e. A website, or something....


Thanks!