About to pull the trigger on an SS4

[shaggy2002]

I bought the GPI SS4 No flycut cam package on black friday. I also plan on getting the Johnson Lifters to go with it and the CHE Trunion kit. With that being said it looks like a Damper is smart to get based on this thread.

What else should I get to prevent failures? My motor has 75k miles on it and has been drag raced heavily for two years.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Shouldn't be too difficult. You'll need the right wheel/tire combo and suspension to get there though. Supporting mods are important. I'm definitely not the quickest out there in Bowling Green, but am definitely one of the loudest, lol.

Suspension is next after the cam then wheels and tires. lol what exhaust are you running?

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Yes; I run the Fluidampr its directions say one Gate belt number and then a different measurement of length...go with the measurement of length..LOL its not the only aftermarket one to get the directions wrong on the belt size though!!!!!LOL Might be the power bond does too..LOL
The idle wont hurt the amps as your idle should go higher being cammed; a stick even more so as the fluidampr only under drives the alternator or stock pulley configuration they do not underdrive the a/c... I believe I got mine Fluidampr through Summit...……… use it for the harmful vibrations them or ATI...….. not just some chunk of steel with rubber..... to stop vibrations that does little...… even though your internally balanced...keeping it righteous and not wearing out cam bearings etc...helps with radical cams etc...… and the stock balancer is not its just a pulley...….. seen them break on here along with some of the cheaper SLP UD pulleys.....

I’ll make sure to remember that when I order it

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

I bought the GPI SS4 No flycut cam package on black friday. I also plan on getting the Johnson Lifters to go with it and the CHE Trunion kit. With that being said it looks like a Damper is smart to get based on this thread.

What else should I get to prevent failures? My motor has 75k miles on it and has been drag raced heavily for two years.

christianchevell gave me the rundown on like page 1 (post #10) of everything you might need. That Black Friday deal was way to good to pass up, I was supposed to buy the headers first lol but I couldn’t let that deal pass. Yea I did a lot of searching and these guys have given all the info you need to make a decision on the balancer.

[shaggy2002]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Suspension is next after the cam then wheels and tires. lol what exhaust are you running?



I’ll make sure to remember that when I order it



christianchevell gave me the rundown on like page 1 (post #10) of everything you might need. That Black Friday deal was way to good to pass up, I was supposed to buy the headers first lol but I couldn’t let that deal pass. Yea I did a lot of searching and these guys have given all the info you need to make a decision on the balancer.

Same, I didn’t want to pass that deal up. Now to save up the money for install and tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Suspension is next after the cam then wheels and tires. lol what exhaust are you running. .

Open headers.

I have 1 7/8 long tube headers from TSP. Thats all. I have ran open headers for about a year and a half now. There have been 2 or 3 times when I connected them back up and ran straight pipe but i just hate the sound of straightpipes anymore. Its not loud enough and just doesn't sound right. Its not even a daily driver anymore though, not since the cam.

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

I bought the GPI SS4 No flycut cam package on black friday. I also plan on getting the Johnson Lifters to go with it and the CHE Trunion kit. With that being said it looks like a Damper is smart to get based on this thread.

What else should I get to prevent failures? My motor has 75k miles on it and has been drag raced heavily for two years.

You'll definitely want a good catch can to protect your intake. Some people go with Moroso, some Elite, some Mighty Mouse. Ted Janetty has the Moroso on his site, janettyracing.com. Also, if you're automatic, then a good transmission cooler. I got an ADM cooler and my trans never gets above 180. And a line lock will technically save your rear brakes from wear during your burnouts, but now we're kinda splitting hairs. Some may suggest the Melling high volume oil pump... those are just a few suggestions along with the damper.

[shaggy2002]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

You'll definitely want a good catch can to protect your intake. Some people go with Moroso, some Elite, some Mighty Mouse. Ted Janetty has the Moroso on his site, janettyracing.com. Also, if you're automatic, then a good transmission cooler. I got an ADM cooler and my trans never gets above 180. And a line lock will technically save your rear brakes from wear during your burnouts, but now we're kinda splitting hairs. Some may suggest the Melling high volume oil pump... those are just a few suggestions along with the damper.

Yes, I need a catch can. They are confusing since there are so many options on which one i actually need.

I am a 1LE car that converted to a 4L80E and they put a trans cooler on my car when i got the trans and I haven't seen temps go above 180. I have a line lock as well. Looks like I need to ask my shop about the Damper and Melling High volume oil pump. Thanks for the help! I know there are no ways to prevent any damage, but I want to add/replace anything I can to attempt to prevent a failure. I realize nothing is fail proof though.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

Yes, I need a catch can. They are confusing since there are so many options on which one i actually need.

I am a 1LE car that converted to a 4L80E and they put a trans cooler on my car when i got the trans and I haven't seen temps go above 180. I have a line lock as well. Looks like I need to ask my shop about the Damper and Melling High volume oil pump. Thanks for the help! I know there are no ways to prevent any damage, but I want to add/replace anything I can to attempt to prevent a failure. I realize nothing is fail proof though.

Yep, cause and effect. Drive it hard, and its inevitable. Anyway, heres a link to a really informative thread on catch cans!

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131646

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Open headers.

I have 1 7/8 long tube headers from TSP. Thats all. I have ran open headers for about a year and a half now. There have been 2 or 3 times when I connected them back up and ran straight pipe but i just hate the sound of straightpipes anymore. Its not loud enough and just doesn't sound right. Its not even a daily driver anymore though, not since thesince the cam

I’m gonna start with the long tubes through the npp and see if I like it and go from there.

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

Same, I didn’t want to pass that deal up. Now to save up the money for install and tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to do the install myself so I’m just saving for headers and a tune.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

I’m gonna start with the long tubes through the npp and see if I like it and go from there.

Good idea. I think I am going to go with the Mike Norris catch can

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Good idea. I think I am going to go with the Mike Norris catch can

Elite Engineering is the one I been looking at I like the way they have it set up to empty.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Elite Engineering is the one I been looking at I like the way they have it set up to empty.

Yeah it seems pretty convenient for emptying. I just like the way the internals are set up on the Mike Norris catch can, and how they performed during the tests. I like the idea of going with tried and true winners that you see our fellow Camaro owners here using with success.. for instance acammer uses the Elite catch can. But I think I am sold on the Mike Norris for this one!

What do you have in mind for suspension?

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Yeah it seems pretty convenient for emptying. I just like the way the internals are set up on the Mike Norris catch can, and how they performed during the tests. I like the idea of going with tried and true winners that you see our fellow Camaro owners here using with success.. for instance acammer uses the Elite catch can. But I think I am sold on the Mike Norris for this one!

What do you have in mind for suspension?

I was just reading the thread you linked on catch cans I’m gonna read through it before I buy one.
BMR toe rods 100 bucks on cspracing.com I’m thinking I should order those now I haven’t them that cheap anywhere else. Bmr trailing arms and the poly bushings. The Pegasus solid sub frame bushings and the 9mm offset diff bushings I cant remember the brand I think they are made out of ??derlin??
Am I missing anything to cure wheel hop and broken axles?

[Chris49066SS]

Thats exactly what I have. Except the diff bushings. I haven't done those. And yes, Delrin is the compound, but the brand is BMR. BMR does both delrin and polyurethane for their bushings. I can tell you that I don't have any wheel hop, so you shouldn't either. As for broken axles, you can snap an axle in several ways. Theres wheel hop that can do it, and then there is the possibility of snapping one when dead hooking on a launch that is harder than what said axle can handle. Now, these are relative to the torque you are sending to the wheels. More torque=more strain on the drivetrain when hooking on hard launches. Unfortunately it varies from car to car as to drivetrains breaking. Some can have problems at 500rwhp, some can handle 650rwhp. After that point, you're usually pushing OEM limits, but at that point, you must know that by then anyway. I'd rather snap an axle, blow a rear end up, or twist a driveshaft before I straight up blew my tranny though...

Here is what you'll need to do your outer TA bushings btw

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Thats exactly what I have. Except the diff bushings. I haven't done those. And yes, Delrin is the compound, but the brand is BMR. BMR does both delrin and polyurethane for their bushings. I can tell you that I don't have any wheel hop, so you shouldn't either. As for broken axles, you can snap an axle in several ways. Theres wheel hop that can do it, and then there is the possibility of snapping one when dead hooking on a launch that is harder than what said axle can handle. Now, these are relative to the torque you are sending to the wheels. More torque=more strain on the drivetrain when hooking on hard launches. Unfortunately it varies from car to car as to drivetrains breaking. Some can have problems at 500rwhp, some can handle 650rwhp. After that point, you're usually pushing OEM limits, but at that point, you must know that by then anyway. I'd rather snap an axle, blow a rear end up, or twist a driveshaft before I straight up blew my tranny though...

Here is what you'll need to do your outer TA bushings btw

I haven’t even thought about the drive shaft and looking at axles scares me$$$.Ok good trying fact check searches. So how do you use that tool and what did you make out of a two jaw puller and a socket adapter?

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

I haven’t even thought about the drive shaft and looking at axles scares me$$$.Ok good trying fact check searches. So how do you use that tool and what did you make out of a two jaw puller and a socket adapter?

You can get the puller from Autozone, either renting it out if they have it; buying one costs $30 (and I haven't had any use for it since). It was actually a 3 jaw puller, but I took one of the jaws off and made it a 2 jaw puller.

I made a post on it a while back, I am going to look for it. I didn't go full potatoes DIY like I did for the cradle bushings, but it did have some explanation. Its easy enough, you use a knife to cut off the rubber that would otherwise obstruct you from getting your puller onto the knuckle. (This is the most annoying part of the process) Then you put your puller onto the knuckle, and a 3" extension will help you out to clear the lower control arm. The adapter was what I needed to make a proper press, due to the nut spinning when its under pressure and travelling up the bolt.