07-24-2023, 03:32 PM | #43 | |
Drives: 2022 Camaro 2SS A10 Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: FL
Posts: 524
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But I understand the other side of this debate as well... lots of BS and mis information on FB as well!
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2022 Camaro 2SS/ Whipple 3.0 / 2"Headers/ PRC LTX Heads/ Forged Internals/LT4 fueling/ DSX Aux/
DSX Flex Fuel/ Meth Injection/ Katech 112 TB/ RotoFab Big Gulp/ Corsa NPP/ Various exterior mods Last edited by adamjwilson; 07-24-2023 at 03:43 PM. |
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07-24-2023, 10:44 PM | #44 |
Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: clark, mo
Posts: 8,862
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I think we used to have more drag racers post on here years back. Everyone wanted to mod their car and head to the track, I just don't see that now plus we used to have more chime in on the posts, seem like there are less of us now. I'm sure some have sold their cars, gone to FB or Instagram as L78 said. Used to have lots posting every week about drag times but since no one keeps track anymore maybe they just don't post if they are going. Pretty boring sometime that's for sure, especially in the winter months.
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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07-25-2023, 06:32 AM | #45 | |
Drives: BLUE CAMARO ZL1 1LE M6 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ON THE DYNO WATERBURY CT.
Posts: 15,230
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No one is Condemning anything, Just an observation of reality. This used to be One Huge group, now Fragmented. I scroll FB regularly but I also scroll here and Here is still better. Ted.
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www.jannettyracing.com
Celebrating 37 years Performance parts, Installation, Fabrication, Dyno tuning, Remote custom tuning, and alignments. 203-753-7223 Waterbury CT. 06705 email tedj@jannettyracing.com |
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07-25-2023, 06:33 AM | #46 |
Drives: 2022 Camaro zl1 Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Tx
Posts: 55
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07-25-2023, 08:24 AM | #47 | |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,839
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2016 NFG 1SS A8
Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA |
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07-25-2023, 11:54 AM | #48 | |
Drives: 2017 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 408
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I would agree that if you are just starting to mod, you are better off starting here. The fact that Google returns search results from the forums is also nice.
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2017 ZL1 - PB 8.05 @ 172 MPH @ 3730 lbs @ 70 DA (work in progress)
Built by Vengeance Racing, tuned by Elite Tuned |
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07-28-2023, 07:17 AM | #49 |
Drives: 19’ ZL1 A10 / 16’ C7Z M7 Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 260
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Facebook isn’t the problem. It’s the type of people on Facebook that creates the problem. Laziness, ignorance and arrogance with car posts. The forum is like a library where you can search the info but if you use your brain you can still post an inquiry. FaceBook is mostly the place to act cool and post bs. Dragy group is a prime example.
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07-29-2023, 07:34 AM | #50 | |
Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: clark, mo
Posts: 8,862
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Quote:
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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07-29-2023, 08:18 AM | #51 | |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,839
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Quote:
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2016 NFG 1SS A8
Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA |
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08-12-2023, 12:45 PM | #52 | |
Drives: 2020 SS Camaro A10 Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 120
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08-13-2023, 04:53 PM | #53 | |
Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,325
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Quote:
In Texas where E85 was local, I was completely happy with a 9 to 11 PSI setup, in Hawaii I'm on 92 and I have pulleyed down to 6 PSI and my DI build is way overkill and I've dumbed it down to (big bore, LT4 injectors and cam lobe). I may try octane booster, there are guys in Hawaii that swear by the stuff and since I'm already paying 5.25 a gallon what is $20 more for the booster. I only fill gas once a month. I tossed around the meth, but there have been a couple meth failures in my local cloud, some self induced (the systems are complicated), some system complication, some maintenance and some / most component failure. So it comes down to this, is the extra 100 HP that I could get with meth going to compromise my ability to get 10 years or 100K miles? I think it does, say to my mind it is an added 20% failure rate over that duration, add in 10% additional failure of the long block itself due to higher HP levels, I'd pass. I would note that is a personal preference and I just don't see the performance vs dependability working out (price irrelevant). I do view a dual injection setup as doable but think the added complexity would add 10% to a 10 year failure rate (probably better have a shop do it). To the OP, I personally think that it is not possible to build a street LT1 that can take upto 1500 HP. I give you an example, does your engine have an aftermarket forged or billet crank? That would answer the question is the engine "good for" even 800 engine HP over the long run. Me personally if I had to do it all again I'd would have definitely have gone for an aftermarket crank. GM did a bunch of crank and bearing modes from 455 HP to 650 HP, I find it ironic that people are claiming the LT1 crank is good enough for 800 HP engine, much less "1500" HP.. it ain't. Same goes for the lifters, I had a LS7 lifter failure on an .660 lift cam, I'm sure I'm not the only one, I fought the LS1 valvetrain failure wars in the 90s and should have learned then... but no modern oils and technology, OK well mine failed. I have a Cam Motion mild lift cam now sub .600 lift and Jonston lifers and Manley valves. Engine makes about the same HP, it just cost a whole lot more money. I'm pretty sure you have a standard intake valves and LS7 lifters to boot. So if reliability is your goal, I'd be looking into real lifters, change out your valve springs and make sure you have the stage II if not the race intercooler (you don't list it), and yes I'd go for a D1x but keep the same boost as I think the D1x just feels better and seems to run cooler (I had a P1sc before). So that would be a .25 or larger pulley. Long story short, if you don't have E85, you need to get it cool and that should be the race intercooler (edit looks like the current setup is an air /water unit), the more efficient D1x that you need to turn SLOWER unless you have E85 pump. DI does not suck, it is great, but it is costly, done correctly it is 100% reliable and you may try octane booster if you want to up the boost a little. Note I never had the basic HO intercooler, I was in Texas so stage II or race would be the only two I'd consider, in Hawaii stage II is actually OK, but I probably will upgrade to the race one just for the "look".
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
Last edited by oldman; 08-13-2023 at 05:28 PM. |
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