MR HYDE IS COMING TO LIFE

[Dr Jkel]

Originally Posted by PQ

Holy shit.

Sounds like my Camaro.




Sorry dude. Bad joke.

That really sux.

So what's the next move?

Well after talking with some legal advisors I now have to get at least two estimates for the cost to finish and fix what is wrong from some other shops. Then send him a certified letter requesting that money and if he fails to do that, then the court system will get involved.

There is so much more that lies beneath the surface on this that I can't really say right now but does not look good for him.

The good part, if any, is that I have invoices where I was charged for certain things like paint work and pictures that show this is not completed. Chips in the paint, missing bolts in the motor, dip stick flopping in the wind, A/C was not charged...common everyday things that most lay people ( Jury) will understand.

As much as I love this truck...it really is a simple vehicle and not some exotic. It's a Chevy truck for Pete's sake.

You know the funny thing is if the paint was a show quality paint job, I could deal with the mechanical issues....kinda would bring back good memories of wrenching on it with my uncle years ago, even though I paid to have it done.

BUT with the paint issues it has it is not even worthy to show right now, even if the motor didn't run, tranny didn't shift, wiring all jacked up it would still look good in the garage or at a show while I worked on the mech issues, but I can't even fo that.

I am pretty good at maintaining a vehice and polishing it up but I cant polish paint back on a vehicle...I haven't mastered that yet...and shouldn't have to.

[The Stig]

Hmm maybe see if Dylan needs a "test" car?

[Scrappy Doo]

Sorry to hear about the problems. Hope that guy has the money to pay you back.

[Dr Jkel]

A little update on ole Mr. Hyde.

I had a mechanic, Certified GM ASE Master Mechanic, come and go over the truck last night. He spent about 3 hours crawling under, over and around the vehicle so that I could kinda get someone elses opinion on this truck. He identified about 85 things that were either incorrect, incorrectly installed, loose, leaking or just plain wrong. He is going to write up an estimate of repairs to fix these issues.

I also have a couple of paint shop owners coming over in the next few days to give me an estimate on fixing the paint and body alignment issues. Then I can go forward.

I did fix a couple of things that I had to fix to be able to move it when needed, so I along with my friend Matt, who is a great menchanic, we got the linkage adjusted so that it will shift properly and I will be able to move it in and out of gear.

From the mechanics estimate it will take about 80 hours to fix all the items identified......The good thing, if there is one, is that most of the items I will be able to do myself with a little help, but unfortunately I will not be able to fix all the issues myself but at least it is a start.

I have a goal of being able to safely drive my vehicle in about a week, not that everything will be fixed but I need to be able to get it on the road, get the motor hot and ensure all the systems are working properly.

My ultimate goal is to have it finished by the time spring gets here and the show car circuit gets into full swing.

Tonight we are going to go over all the trucks electrical system and I will get the ole blue painters tape and start identifying areas and thing I see so that painters will have an easy time getting an idea of what I am seeing, plus it will make it easier to remember.

So that is what I have so far......The Process begins.

[garcmol]

That's a heartbreaker. I hope the rest of this build isn't as painful. At least with paint they should be able to blend. Other than were the ghost flames are. But the painter you were talking about sounds really good.

[PQ]

It's almost like you sent your truck to Savini.

[Dr Jkel]

Originally Posted by garcmol

That's a heartbreaker. I hope the rest of this build isn't as painful. At least with paint they should be able to blend. Other than were the ghost flames are. But the painter you were talking about sounds really good.

I am not sure what a painter can do as I am really inexperienced as far as blending and such. The ghost flames are on the hood, parts of the front fender, cowl and doors so I am not real sure about that.

Hopefully the doors can be adjusted and the touch up blended since the places needed are not where the flames are.

The only piece that will need a total repaint is the cowl since the chip is about the size of a quarter.

I know they are able to blend alot of things because it is done all the time on insurance jobs when people have wrecks. I did notice some solvent pop on the rear fenders last night so don't know how they fix that.

But my HOPE is that this painter will be able to look at it, fix the imperfections by blending and maybe just re-clear the entire thing and buff it back down to a high gloss shine.

I have seen in the detail threads and talked with Camaro Ryan, Junkman, and Dylan about these paint chip fix systems like Lanka....so my hopes are that since it can be done that way that a real painter can repair this in such a way that I do not need a total repaint.

I guess time will tell.

[garcmol]

Originally Posted by Dr Jkel

I am not sure what a painter can do as I am really inexperienced as far as blending and such. The ghost flames are on the hood, parts of the front fender, cowl and doors so I am not real sure about that.

Hopefully the doors can be adjusted and the touch up blended since the places needed are not where the flames are.

The only piece that will need a total repaint is the cowl since the chip is about the size of a quarter.

I know they are able to blend alot of things because it is done all the time on insurance jobs when people have wrecks. I did notice some solvent pop on the rear fenders last night so don't know how they fix that.

But my HOPE is that this painter will be able to look at it, fix the imperfections by blending and maybe just re-clear the entire thing and buff it back down to a high gloss shine.

I have seen in the detail threads and talked with Camaro Ryan, Junkman, and Dylan about these paint chip fix systems like Lanka....so my hopes are that since it can be done that way that a real painter can repair this in such a way that I do not need a total repaint.

I guess time will tell.

That solvent pop could have been just a dirty finger touched the body before they shot the paint. The paint won't bond with the surface and it won't matter how many coats they put on after, it will lift.

Blending will work with your base coat and will look great. Blending and ghost flames I'm not sure about.

Lanka, and those type systems are great for minor chips, and small scratches. They have clear coat mixed with the paint so you get a semi-finished product when used right. If you're showing the truck at some high end shows, stay away from your paint scratch quick fixes. But if you have a panel that the paint lifted, the painter will get it down to base, clean repaint and blend. Blend the base coat that is. I've never seen a painter shoot clear over just a spot that has been blended. Typically they shoot the entire panel then compound it to bring out the shine. I take that back, I saw one painter try that (First painter with my stripes) and the finished product looked like shit.

[Dr Jkel]

I am sure the painter that is coming pretty much knows his stuff. He was recommended by Ron from Vengeance so I feel pretty sure he know what he is doing, Ron has NEVER done me wrong and if Ron puts his stamp of approval on it then I am sure he will do ajamb up job on it.

The only thing that limits me at this point is my knowledge of paint procedures but I guess that is why you pay someone to do it, or in my case pay twice to have it done.

I fully expect not to receive a penny from the other shop even though I will pursue the legal action, if I do get some money then that will be great.

[Dr Jkel]

OK.....Mr Hyde update.

It looks like this is really going to turn into a build thread....a real build thread done by me, a friend and a painter....The three amigos as I like to look at it.

I have been getting some great advise and help from Norm and RJ and I really appreciate it alot.....I am going to pursue legal action in this matter so I will leave that part left unsaid at this point and concentrate on finishing my truck to the standard that I paid for.


At this point there are not alot of pictures that I can add because it is really hard to show pictures of loose bolts, missing bolts ( especially where they are located), clear fluids that leak don't really show up well and things like that.

Paint/body and mechanical/safety wise we have identified about 90 things at this point that have to be corrected or finished. It appears to me that the entire truck will need to be painted sincethe cab forward was painted with a 3 stage paint and the bed was painted with base coat/ clear coat process. The difference is slight but trying to touch up things won't probably work.


So with that said. I will list things that are done on a daily basis that are being fixed and I will post things that have been done so far in the next post....SO now everyone has a background and I would prefer to keep the legal stuff out of this thread, once it is all resolved I will post but as most legal matters thety just take time. Right now I can not really determine everything wrong because I keep finding more when I am fixing stuff. You will see what I mean in the coming posts.

[Dr Jkel]

Preliminary inspection indicated many safety issues and that is the main focus now.

1. Drivers side motor mount bolt is loose. Motor mount that bolts to the block is also loose. Tightened motor mount bolts. Decided to check passenger side while I was there.

2. Passenger side motor mount bolt is missing ( Center bolt that hold motor to the frame). Tried installing a new bolt but it won't thread into mount. Bolts loose that attach mount to block.

Removed motor mount and realized that a bolt had been cross threaded. Tapped and re-threaded mounting hole and re-installed mount tightenend and torqued.

NOTE- Having the motor held in by one loose bolt cause great concern for safety and the reamining bolts installed on the truck- must check all bolts to ensure they are tight.

While under the truck fixing the mount issues I noticed fluids on the garage floor such fluids as transmission, brake, power steering. I also noticed that the main hot wire from the battery is ran in a hole in the frame and does not have a rubber grommett in the hole- possible issue if wiring rubs frame since the hole is close to the size of the wire.

3. Checked and tightened loose bolts on the entire front end. While doing this noticed all wiring connections are not weather proof connectors and do not have die electric grease in connections. Several wires hanging down un-attached. Need to check all electrical connections.

4. Inspected source of all leaks. Power steering reservoir fitting is loose and was tightened. Power steering unit was extremely low on fluid.

Transmission fluid is coming from the tail shaft area. Tail shaft house is broken. Transmission is not a TCI Streetfighter transmission. Transmission has not been rebuilt like I was told in late September - looks like a junkyard tranny that has been painted- best I can tell it is a 1991 700R/4. Transmission will have to be removed and checked by a transmission shop. Noticed starter is not properly grounded.

Checked brake line connections and all unions are loose. ( Personal Preference point) Instead of using one solid line from proportionng valve to the rear brakes it has 3 seperate pieces of brake line - Gonna change this.

Note- While under truck noticed many wires unattached hanging at the back of the motor, transmission dust shield not installed. Noticed oil pan is crushed upwards- appears motor was jacked up using the oil pan as a lifting point. Oil pan being crushed will cause the oil pick up tube to not properly function thus cause the motor to be robbed of oil at upper rpms ranges and catrastrophic failure will occur with low oil. Also noticed missing hardware on rear end, bed mounting bolts missing.

At this point work stopped and a list was made of everything we could find, parts that were needed to complete the mechanical issues.

Went to Summitt Racing in Atlanta and bought parts.

[f5journal]

I've been following this thread and I am speechless. With all due respect, I sorta thought Dr. Jkl might be "hard/impossible to please". Boy was I wrong

[Dr Jkel]

Saturday November 26, 2011

Drained oil from engine to fix oil pan. Noticed water in the oil..Hmmmmmmmm

Drained radiator fluid and determined it only had 3/4 of a gallon of fluid.....billed for two gallons of antifreeze.

Drained brake fluid to fix line issues and leaks. Before brake fluid was drained checked all wheels for proper brake function. Noticed drivers side wheel is loose and the rear wheels drag like the brakes are applied.

At this point it is determined truck will not be cranked till all issues are fixed. Too many safety concerns that could be dangerous.

While fluids were draining we started at the front of the vehicle,

Checked park lamp wiring. Noticed lamp connectors have bare wires, broke insulation on wires and the park lamp wiring harness look original a 1963 harness. Main disconnect is under drivers side fender......Upon inspection of main connector the connector is the original connector and is broke, cracked ( basically dry rotted) and has exposed connectors.

Run to Advance Auto for more parts...I have a feeling this will not be the last time I need to do this, LOL.

Removed park lamp wiring harness. unwrap the electrical tape from the harness. Install new park lamp bulb socket, installed new water proof main connector, re-route wires so that they are hidden and not simply hanging across the hood. Installed rubber grommets where wires passed through metal.

Time for the Iron Bowl....Roll Tide

[Dr Jkel]

Sunday November 27, 2011 Roll Tide 42-14

More runs to Lowes and Auto Zone. Needed hardware and fluids. Borrowed a stud puller to pull the bad dent in oil pan. ( Body shop tool)

Started working on motor issues.

Dip stick was not attached to the block, just hanging loosely. It was an old dipstick version- Note to self paid for a new Lokar flexible dipstick, nowhere to be found. Dipstick can not be installed because of the plug wire holders used. Purchased a Lokar dipstick( again) had to manufacturer a bolt that would fit. Luckily Matt the mechanic has a lathe and a spare piece of billet aluminum to make it.

PCV valve not routed to the correct location. It is in the throttle body heater port instead of the intake. Chrome vacuum hose for the A/C function has been left off and the hose simply runs to the back of the plenum and has nothing attached to it.....Basically we found 4 vacuum lines either not in the right place or left unconnected. On the UNIT itself there are many vacuum ports that have not been blocked off. Fixed all these issues by running vacuum lines to corect place and plugging extra vacuum ports.

Checked the remaining bolts on the motor, and tightened header bolts and accessory drive bolts for A/C, alternator etc......noticed belt is a 6 groove belt but accessory drive in a 7 groove belt- will check on that later. Dispite motor being dirty and the chrome scrathed up motor appears completed besides fluids.

Started removing brake line madness. Upon inspection I noticed the main wiring harness to the rear is zip tied to the Braided Stainless Steel FUEL lines and they move freely. Braided Stainless Lines are extremely rough and if left alone will eventually rub through the wriring harness. Could cause a potential safetry problem if not fixed.

Removed front drivers tire to see what problem is. Lug nuts are tight. Un-bolted calipers and removed rotors. Retaining is extemely tight and after removal found that the nut had been cross threaded....... Spindle has to either be replaced or repaired. Matt has a spindle re-threading kit so he will bring it tomorrow.

Frustration sets in so we quit for the day.