The BEST Break for a new car. "very long" - Page 7

Rocky918 · 09-16-2009, 09:19 PM

By load the engine, you mean do what I described that I just did today 11 times correct? .. and your saying ITS NOT to late to have a proper ring seal?

also, why exactly do fuses #5 and #20 need to be pulled out and put back in?

Darin Morgan · 09-16-2009, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJ91

Hey Darin, great thread, ii just wish i had gotten to this sooner

My 2LT/RS M6 now has 3000km on it and i find that it feels exactly the same as my brothers 05 v6 stang. I did the OM break in and regret doing this.
In all honestly, what do you say is the latest you can begin the hard break in to make a difference?
Would my rings be seated already by now? Is it too late at 1800 miles to do the hard break in? Will i actually see a performance gain or have the rings seat better? I sure hope soo, thanks in advance for any advice.
Sorry, just noticed how many questions i have in there, as you can see, im a little desperate now lol

Your break in is over. There is nothing you can do. Go get a good tune and have some fun.

Darin Morgan · 09-16-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the rich dude

Thanks Darin. I plan on putting a ProCharger on my car so will definitely be installing a 160 degree thermostat. Would you still run the 0W30 with the blower or should I go up to the 5W30?? My car will see lots of driving including 4 hour road trips to the Okanagon

In a normally aspirated engine I always use 0W30 but with a supercharger of any kind I would use 5W30. If your oil/water temps run high then go to 10W30.

Rocky918 · 09-16-2009, 09:31 PM

darin,

i really apologize for being a pain, but i want to make sure that my camaro is broken in as best as possible... could you please comment on my post a few posts up in regards to if what i did 11 times today was correct, and to repeat that once a day 10 times or so for the next week would be good? and is it to late to have a proper ring seal being im starting this at 470 miles?

and exactly why do the fuses need to pulled and replaced? and more importantly, WHEN should I do the fuse reset?

Darin Morgan · 09-17-2009, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocky918

darin,

i really apologize for being a pain, but i want to make sure that my camaro is broken in as best as possible... could you please comment on my post a few posts up in regards to if what i did 11 times today was correct, and to repeat that once a day 10 times or so for the next week would be good? and is it to late to have a proper ring seal being im starting this at 470 miles?

and exactly why do the fuses need to pulled and replaced? and more importantly, WHEN should I do the fuse reset?

Read the entire thread on the fuse reset and do it exactely the way they outlined. You can do it as much or as little as you like. I have to do mine about once a week.

Is it to late for proper ring seal? I dont know. Without putting a bore scope down the cylinder or doing compression and leak down tests in conjunction with a dyno run its impossible for me to diagnose acar I have not seen.

Just go out and do some acceleration runs. It can be five -10-20 how ever many you want. Its not written in stone. Go get your car dynoed. That probably the first thing you should do. You need to evaluate where your at now! If your making good power already, you done and dont have to worry about it. If the thing is only putting down 300-310hp at the rear whells you have problems and need to consult a professional tuner.

the rich dude · 09-17-2009, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darin Morgan

In a normally aspirated engine I always use 0W30 but with a supercharger of any kind I would use 5W30. If your oil/water temps run high then go to 10W30.

thats what I was thinking. Thanks!

chappy48 · 09-17-2009, 01:32 PM

Reading some peoples questions and his answers, I think people are making it more complicated then it needs to be. What I'm getting from him is...just floor it! Do hard acceleration runs up to whatever speed you feel comfortable. Slow back down, not letting the engine slow you down (either by shifting to neutral or using D and letting the car upshift automatically) then do it again and repeat. After a bunch of runs, let the engine cool down then do it all over again. Whether you're on city streets and can only accelerate upto the speed limit (or maybe a little over

) or on the highway and can make runs up to 80, or even on a deserted road where you can do whatever you want, the important thing is to load the engine with hard acceleration. There's no magic mph or number of runs that you need to do. Just floor it a bunch of times, letting it cool down every once in awhile. I can tell you, I'm gonna spend a couple hours after I get mine just ripping up and down the highway, getting off every off ramp and going back down the on ramp. Oh and change the oil by 500 miles

Darin Morgan · 09-17-2009, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chappy48

Reading some peoples questions and his answers, I think people are making it more complicated then it needs to be. What I'm getting from him is...just floor it! Do hard acceleration runs up to whatever speed you feel comfortable. Slow back down, not letting the engine slow you down (either by shifting to neutral or using D and letting the car upshift automatically) then do it again and repeat. After a bunch of runs, let the engine cool down then do it all over again. Whether you're on city streets and can only accelerate upto the speed limit (or maybe a little over

) or on the highway and can make runs up to 80, or even on a deserted road where you can do whatever you want, the important thing is to load the engine with hard acceleration. There's no magic mph or number of runs that you need to do. Just floor it a bunch of times, letting it cool down every once in awhile. I can tell you, I'm gonna spend a couple hours after I get mine just ripping up and down the highway, getting off every off ramp and going back down the on ramp. Oh and change the oil by 500 miles

Exactly!

jtellez · 09-17-2009, 02:46 PM

Darin, after each hard acceleration does it make a big difference whether we shift into neutral or let the slow down on its own?

khislop007 · 09-17-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtellez

Darin, after each hard acceleration does it make a big difference whether we shift into neutral or let the slow down on its own?

Look at the post right above yours!! #91 #92

zerolm · 09-17-2009, 09:02 PM

Just wanted to say that it is refreshing to see that almost 100% of the replies to Darin's posts were positive and constructive. I personally have raced "Thoroughbred" race cars for over 18 years, many with engines alone priced in the same price range as a new 2ss/rs.
Every engine builder we have ever used (and there have been many) have basically assembled the engine, mounted it to the dyno, fired and ran it long enough to warm the oil, and then proceeded to hammer her on up to 8000+ rpm.
If someone thinks for a moment that the legal department at General Motors does not thoroughly review all documents given to a customer (including the owners manual), they are not dealing with reality. Just as Darin states, there is no way they are going to tell you to break your car in his way simply because of liability.
Congratulations on your Camaro's, I very well may become an owner of one myself as soon as the market cools down a little.....

the rich dude · 09-18-2009, 01:15 AM

SO where is a good place(cheapest place) to buy Amsoil from?

Darin Morgan · 09-18-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the rich dude

SO where is a good place(cheapest place) to buy Amsoil from?

I will tell you who I buy it from.

Ken Olive
AMSOIL Premier Direct Jobber #1132530
(920) 860-0116
www.ModernOils.com

Bentley78 · 09-18-2009, 06:40 PM

Darin, I live in a place where its Warm all year round!! Hawaii....

Which Amsoil weight do you suggest i run? And would that weight go for any synthetic oil i.e. if i can only get my hands on Mobil 1?

My friend will be doing some Loads on my car in Phoenix today before it heads out to Hawaii. He will be strictly following your guidelines.

Thanks.

09-16-2009, 09:19 PM	#85
Rocky918 Drives: SS for Super Sexy! Join Date: May 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 746	By load the engine, you mean do what I described that I just did today 11 times correct? .. and your saying ITS NOT to late to have a proper ring seal? also, why exactly do fuses #5 and #20 need to be pulled out and put back in? __________________ - Life is to short to let it pass you by

09-16-2009, 09:31 PM	#88
Rocky918 Drives: SS for Super Sexy! Join Date: May 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 746	darin, i really apologize for being a pain, but i want to make sure that my camaro is broken in as best as possible... could you please comment on my post a few posts up in regards to if what i did 11 times today was correct, and to repeat that once a day 10 times or so for the next week would be good? and is it to late to have a proper ring seal being im starting this at 470 miles? and exactly why do the fuses need to pulled and replaced? and more importantly, WHEN should I do the fuse reset? __________________ - Life is to short to let it pass you by Last edited by Rocky918; 09-17-2009 at 01:01 AM.

09-17-2009, 02:46 PM	#93
jtellez Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Fairfax, Va Posts: 176	Darin, after each hard acceleration does it make a big difference whether we shift into neutral or let the slow down on its own? __________________ Ordered: 1SS, 6A, Black/Beige. 1100-Preliminary order accepted: 6/27 2000-Order accepted by GM: 9/8 3000-Order accepted by production control: 9/10 TPW 10/05/09 3300-Order scheduled for production: 9/24 3400-Order broadcast: 10/01 3800-Order produced: 10/09 4B00-Order Placed on hold: 10/12 4200-Shipped: 10/14 5000-Delivered to the dealer: 10/27 6000-Delivered to the customer: 10/27

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09-17-2009, 01:32 PM	#91
chappy48 Drives: 2010 Camaro Auto 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wauconda, IL Posts: 878	Reading some peoples questions and his answers, I think people are making it more complicated then it needs to be. What I'm getting from him is...just floor it! Do hard acceleration runs up to whatever speed you feel comfortable. Slow back down, not letting the engine slow you down (either by shifting to neutral or using D and letting the car upshift automatically) then do it again and repeat. After a bunch of runs, let the engine cool down then do it all over again. Whether you're on city streets and can only accelerate upto the speed limit (or maybe a little over ) or on the highway and can make runs up to 80, or even on a deserted road where you can do whatever you want, the important thing is to load the engine with hard acceleration. There's no magic mph or number of runs that you need to do. Just floor it a bunch of times, letting it cool down every once in awhile. I can tell you, I'm gonna spend a couple hours after I get mine just ripping up and down the highway, getting off every off ramp and going back down the on ramp. Oh and change the oil by 500 miles

09-17-2009, 09:02 PM	#95
zerolm Drives: Ford F-350/ 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Anthony, Fl Posts: 137	Just wanted to say that it is refreshing to see that almost 100% of the replies to Darin's posts were positive and constructive. I personally have raced "Thoroughbred" race cars for over 18 years, many with engines alone priced in the same price range as a new 2ss/rs. Every engine builder we have ever used (and there have been many) have basically assembled the engine, mounted it to the dyno, fired and ran it long enough to warm the oil, and then proceeded to hammer her on up to 8000+ rpm. If someone thinks for a moment that the legal department at General Motors does not thoroughly review all documents given to a customer (including the owners manual), they are not dealing with reality. Just as Darin states, there is no way they are going to tell you to break your car in his way simply because of liability. Congratulations on your Camaro's, I very well may become an owner of one myself as soon as the market cools down a little.....

09-18-2009, 01:15 AM	#96
the rich dude Drives: Getting 2010 Camaro Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Vancouver Posts: 1,149	SO where is a good place(cheapest place) to buy Amsoil from?

09-18-2009, 06:40 PM	#98
Bentley78 Rice Cooker Drives: Avalanche Z/71, 2010 Camaro2SS Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hawaii/Phoenix Posts: 590	Darin, I live in a place where its Warm all year round!! Hawaii.... Which Amsoil weight do you suggest i run? And would that weight go for any synthetic oil i.e. if i can only get my hands on Mobil 1? My friend will be doing some Loads on my car in Phoenix today before it heads out to Hawaii. He will be strictly following your guidelines. Thanks.