Another blend door thread, but with a question I've yet to see....

[Rusty Shackleford]

My '12 2ss is the latest victim.



I have the new blend door and hot knife on their way, and pretty sure I have a good grasp on getting it replaced.



My question is about the relearn for the bend door actuator. What is the simplest method for the relearn? I've seen mention of a battery disconnect, and videos where they're using software to initiate the relearn procedure?



Thanks

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by Rusty Shackleford

My '12 2ss is the latest victim.



I have the new blend door and hot knife on their way, and pretty sure I have a good grasp on getting it replaced.



My question is about the relearn for the bend door actuator. What is the simplest method for the relearn? I've seen mention of a battery disconnect, and videos where they're using software to initiate the relearn procedure?



Thanks

I can tell you this, apparently the battery disconnect and-or getting it in the right position when mounting the actuator motor works. I was reasonably sure mine was working, it just wasn't cold. (recharged the system and now it's about 90%. I think it could be colder) I took mine in to be calibrated and watched him use his Snap-On wireless scanner and all doors checked out to be working properly. So to answer your question, the battery disconnect is certainly simplest.

When I first talked to my local tech and told him about the battery fix, he shook his head and said it wouldn't work. Maybe he just wanted the business, not sure.

[Moto-Mojo]

(Not So) Pro Tip: Careful with the hot knife around the raised actuator mounting post, the hot side of my knife melted mine. I made a new post / spacer to remount it. It's easy to nick it if you're following a similar cut path you see outlined here and on YouTube.

[Rusty Shackleford]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

I can tell you this, apparently the battery disconnect and-or getting it in the right position when mounting the actuator motor works. I was reasonably sure mine was working, it just wasn't cold. (recharged the system and now it's about 90%. I think it could be colder) I took mine in to be calibrated and watched him use his Snap-On wireless scanner and all doors checked out to be working properly. So to answer your question, the battery disconnect is certainly simplest.

When I first talked to my local tech and told him about the battery fix, he shook his head and said it wouldn't work. Maybe he just wanted the business, not sure.

Mine blows nice and cold from the passenger side. I have to turn the fan way up to get much air from the driver side, and once I do that air is much warmer than what's coming out of the passenger side. Right now it's tolerable, but Texas summer is coming on quickly so I need to get it dealt with pretty soon.



I planned on disconnecting the battery before beginning the work, then just re-connecting it when done. I just want it to be as correct as it can be once all is done.



I do commercial air conditioning for a living, so the refrigeration circuit is nothing to fear for me. It's the air side and controls that differ greatly from what I'm used to. Even then, nothing about this scares me, I just want to be as informed as I can and have a plan before I dive in.



Thanks

[Rusty Shackleford]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

(Not So) Pro Tip: Careful with the hot knife around the raised actuator mounting post, the hot side of my knife melted mine. I made a new post / spacer to remount it. It's easy to nick it if you're following a similar cut path you see outlined here and on YouTube.

Thanks for that heads up. I will be mindful of that.