[Thill444]

Picked up my 2020 1SS1LE this past week and have started on some light mods. It became obvious on the test drive that the stock non-Bose system is below average. I started researching only to find we don’t have the amp in the trunk and we have the radio tuner in the passenger area by the glovebox. Not many inexpensive harness options.

I have done many audio systems and my last one I did myself with a full active 3 way Morel component system with dual 6.5” subs from Parts Express and dual amps all controlled by a DSr1/DSP. It was a lot of work and time.

This time I’m thinking about going a different and more simpler route. I am going to order a 10” Rockford Fosgate powered subwoofer box that has simple disconnects for track days.

I was going to order either HAT or Audio Frog dash midrange drivers but after doing research and reaching out to a buddy who is big into DIY car audio he recommended I try the Sundown SA-2.75 FR V2 for the dash. They are $79 and the V1 model was popular and tested well. Ordered today. They don’t need much power and many people see improvements off just the headunit.

I will drop those in on the stock amp, and combined with the sub box see how things sound. Leaving the door and sail panel speakers stock for now.

I’m concerned about running amps and increased door chimes and I’m also going to be adding aftermarket exhaust so spending a lot money on audio gear may not be cost efficient.

I realize the benefits of DSP and I may go all in at some point but I hope just adding some bass and improving that dash speaker gives me a good enough experience

Will post along as I go.

[ThirdGenNut]

Originally Posted by Thill444

Picked up my 2020 1SS1LE this past week and have started on some light mods. It became obvious on the test drive that the stock non-Bose system is below average. I started researching only to find we don’t have the amp in the trunk and we have the radio tuner in the passenger area by the glovebox. Not many inexpensive harness options.

I have done many audio systems and my last one I did myself with a full active 3 way Morel component system with dual 6.5” subs from Parts Express and dual amps all controlled by a DSr1/DSP. It was a lot of work and time.

This time I’m thinking about going a different and more simpler route. I am going to order a 10” Rockford Fosgate powered subwoofer box that has simple disconnects for track days.

I was going to order either HAT or Audio Frog dash midrange drivers but after doing research and reaching out to a buddy who is big into DIY car audio he recommended I try the Sundown SA-2.75 FR V2 for the dash. They are $79 and the V1 model was popular and tested well. Ordered today. They don’t need much power and many people see improvements off just the headunit.

I will drop those in on the stock amp, and combined with the sub box see how things sound. Leaving the door and sail panel speakers stock for now.

I’m concerned about running amps and increased door chimes and I’m also going to be adding aftermarket exhaust so spending a lot money on audio gear may not be cost efficient.

I realize the benefits of DSP and I may go all in at some point but I hope just adding some bass and improving that dash speaker gives me a good enough experience

Will post along as I go.

Good luck!

[Thill444]

Originally Posted by ThirdGenNut

Good luck!]

Thanks, I will need it! Went for a drive today and made some EQ adjustments and the system is not as bad as I thought using CarPlay and better quality music.

There’s a distinct lack of bass, so I’m hoping the subwoofer will really help round it out.

I did order these for the dash speakers to make life easier. I hate cutting factory wires.

https://lljcustoms.com/store/ols/pro...eeter-adapters

[Msquared]

So...I did install the Audiofrog GS25 in the dash and their GS690 woofers in the doors of my 1LE. No other changes so far, and it's a huge improvement. I mean massive. It has more extended highs and lows with much more detail but also no harshness. Vocals are leagues better, bass is much better in both extension and quality, ambiance is much improved too. I went with these speakers mainly because of their high sensitivity combined with good reputation for sound quality. The G25 have tabs that make these drop-in replacements, which is nice. I don't really use the rear speakers at all: I just fade them out. My last phase of the plan is to install a Kicker KEY180.4 amp and use it in biamp mode to actively cross over the door and dash units. It has an 35-band auto-EQ that should improve staging and frequency response, too.

AFAIK, there is not yet any interface for our non-amplified systems (e.g. NAV-TV withich is available for Bose-equipped 2019+ Camaros). So I don't think there's any way to attenuate amplified chimes and warnings, even with DSP. I think the only option right now is to use speaker level inputs and carefully consider how much sensitivity to dial into an amp.

ETA: speaking of hating to cut factory wires, I am using a "breakout harness" that Gen5DIY made for me to go between the factory harness and the tuner module by the glove box. It will allow me to put the amp in the circuit for the front speakers without cutting any factory wires. I will still have to run a separate set of leads between the dash speakers and the amp to avoid cutting those, but that will mean zero cuts in factory wires.

Also, I didn't know about LLJ Customs dash speaker adapters when I did mine, so I made my own using the stock speaker's connectors and hi-pass capacitors. You should plan to use some kind of high-pass filter for the dash speakers. If I knew about them, I would have bought the LLJ adapters and added a 200uF cap in the positive leads (corresponds to the recommended crossover point for the GS25 speakers).

[Thill444]

Originally Posted by Msquared

So...I did install the Audiofrog GS25 in the dash and their GS690 woofers in the doors of my 1LE. No other changes so far, and it's a huge improvement. I mean massive. It has more extended highs and lows with much more detail but also no harshness. Vocals are leagues better, bass is much better in both extension and quality, ambiance is much improved too. I went with these speakers mainly because of their high sensitivity combined with good reputation for sound quality. The G25 have tabs that make these drop-in replacements, which is nice. I don't really use the rear speakers at all: I just fade them out. My last phase of the plan is to install a Kicker KEY180.4 amp and use it in biamp mode to actively cross over the door and dash units. It has an 35-band auto-EQ that should improve staging and frequency response, too.

AFAIK, there is not yet any interface for our non-amplified systems (e.g. NAV-TV withich is available for Bose-equipped 2019+ Camaros). So I don't think there's any way to attenuate amplified chimes and warnings, even with DSP. I think the only option right now is to use speaker level inputs and carefully consider how much sensitivity to dial into an amp.

ETA: speaking of hating to cut factory wires, I am using a "breakout harness" that Gen5DIY made for me to go between the factory harness and the tuner module by the glove box. It will allow me to put the amp in the circuit for the front speakers without cutting any factory wires. I will still have to run a separate set of leads between the dash speakers and the amp to avoid cutting those, but that will mean zero cuts in factory wires.

Also, I didn't know about LLJ Customs dash speaker adapters when I did mine, so I made my own using the stock speaker's connectors and hi-pass capacitors. You should plan to use some kind of high-pass filter for the dash speakers. If I knew about them, I would have bought the LLJ adapters and added a 200uF cap in the positive leads (corresponds to the recommended crossover point for the GS25 speakers).

Thank you for your post and all your research in this area. As I was reading up on audio options on the 1LE I stumbled across many of your posts and you were one of the reasons I considered the Audio Frog midrange driver. I honestly may still go that route but my buddy is an avid car audio enthusiast and has bought and tested many of the midrange speakers out there and he told me to try the Sundown's first. So we will see. I actually owned the Morel 2.5 midrange speakers in my last car and was very impressed with them and it was night and day vs the stock Ford midrange and another midrange I bought at Parts Express. So Sundown being better than that midrange (at least it tests better) will make me happy for the price.

Yes I am adding a cap to the midrange, even though I am not adding an amp it seems like cheap protection. Thanks for the tip

I was going to do a single shallow loaded/powered 10" (sealed) enclosure sub, but changed it up and now am doing a 12" shallow Rockford Fosgate (sealed) enclosure with a separate mono amp powering it. It should fit quite nicely in the trunk with the enclosure standing up and firing directly into the back seats. I am a huge subwoofer person for home theater, but in my car I just want something simple that can add some bass that does not overpower the speakers.

Door speakers.. You have me really thinking Audiofrog there. It is so hard to find 6.5" or 6.9" door speakers that are not coaxial (I don't think having tweeters firing so low in this car in the doors make sense to me) but that midrange bass is so important. I was just worried about not using an amp to power them, but it sounds like even off the stock amp/tuner they sound good and to your point an amp down the road will likely be possible.

I am just not dealing with the door chime business right now. If the sub and improved tweeter/mids get me 80% of the way there, I may just stop. For the sub, amp, LOC, and midrange speaker I am right at $300 before tax. I already have a fuse box, speaker and amp wire, and can soldier will use heat shrink on everything.

If I am still not happy I will go Audio Frog or Hybrid Audio (I had their gear in a BRZ and really liked it) for the doors and then go down the rabbit hole of amplifer and DSP. I really do love DSP, especially since with many you can control them from your iPhone now. But in this same breadth I am looking at adding a Borla Type S and probably an Xpipe so yeah. Spending tons of money on speakers is probably self defeating

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Thill444

Thank you for your post and all your research in this area. As I was reading up on audio options on the 1LE I stumbled across many of your posts and you were one of the reasons I considered the Audio Frog midrange driver. I honestly may still go that route but my buddy is an avid car audio enthusiast and has bought and tested many of the midrange speakers out there and he told me to try the Sundown's first. So we will see. I actually owned the Morel 2.5 midrange speakers in my last car and was very impressed with them and it was night and day vs the stock Ford midrange and another midrange I bought at Parts Express. So Sundown being better than that midrange (at least it tests better) will make me happy for the price.

I'd never heard of the Sundown line before, so I'm interested to get your impressions...especially at a much nicer price! I'm sure that Morel and the Hybrid you mentioned are wonderful, but the AF seems a better match for the stock amplification (just a chip in the tuner module) due its sensitivity. I hope the Sundown works well for you, but if not, you won't be out that much money.

Yes I am adding a cap to the midrange, even though I am not adding an amp it seems like cheap protection. Thanks for the tip

Right, that cap serves double duty: it provides some protection, and it provides a crude crossover between the dash and door speakers, allowing them to work as a component set. The stock speakers have a 68uF cap, and that's what I reused. In retrospect, though, the GS25 speakers can be crossed over lower (AF recommends 200hz) and that comes out to roughly 200mF capacitance. So if I were not adding the amp, I'd be adding those. I probably still will even with the amp's active crossover, just for protection.

Door speakers.. You have me really thinking Audiofrog there. It is so hard to find 6.5" or 6.9" door speakers that are not coaxial (I don't think having tweeters firing so low in this car in the doors make sense to me) but that midrange bass is so important. I was just worried about not using an amp to power them, but it sounds like even off the stock amp/tuner they sound good and to your point an amp down the road will likely be possible.

Given that your adding a sub, you would probably be better off using the 6" round GS60 in the doors instead of their 6x9s. It's probably a teeny bit better sound quality, and you won't need the extra bass extension the oval speakers give you. I used the 6x9s specifically because I will not be installing a sub - I don't want to add weight because I autocross and track the car.

BTW, for the sub please make sure you tap the front speaker outputs and not the rear ones. The rears are not full-range signals. Also, I agree 100% with you about not using coax speakers in the doors.

I am just not dealing with the door chime business right now. If the sub and improved tweeter/mids get me 80% of the way there, I may just stop.

It might very well work out that way. I don't actually think the stock door woofers are terrible. They aren't very detailed and they don't have good bass extension at all. But especially if you low-pass the sub at, say, 80hz, they will probably perform a lot better because the sub will handle the area where the door speakers struggle, and the dash speakers will handle the most important frequency range (the mids). I agree with your approach to go this far and evaluate. Keep us updated!

[Thill444]

Well I have most of the components. I have the Rockford Fosgate loaded box, the amp, the LOC, and most of the speaker wire. Amazon should deliver the 4guage wire for the amp tonight. I received the Sundown dash mids today. Still waiting on the harness for the tweeters and the company the I bought them from seems to be MIA. So may end up making my own.

I am not sure where I will place the amp. I am going disassemble the trunk tonight and determine where the best place to put it will be. I have painted my amp board. Amp and sub will be installed tomorrow.

Msquared I thought about what you said and I know I will not be happy with the stock door speakers. I wanted to do this whole project on a budget since I know I will be adding a non-stock exhaust and I like to ride a lot with the windows down.

But I also don't want garbage speakers either so I am meeting in the middle. I ordered a pair of Stevens Audio M-6 midbass speakers. They are a boutique speaker company so I was able to talk to the owner/designer. They are quite popular on the DIY car audio forums. They are rated 95db sensitive/4 ohm and have a frequency response range of 70hz-4Khz (+/- 3db). Owner said these will be driven just fine with the factory power and will be even better in the future if I add an amp. He recommended I start with giving them the full signal and then would work with me to adjust from there (if I need to add a coil to block some of the higher frequencies). The Stevens were $176 shipped which seems very reasonable for a higher quality driver. I also ordered the Metra harness and adapters for the Camaro.

I am adding a 150uF capacitor to the Sundown's mids. They actually claim they will play lower, but on the DIYmobile forum guys recommended cutting them off here.

Budget so far: $570 for everything. I did have some speaker wire, and heat shrink laying around and I am not counting that.

So we will see the results. Ultimate goal is to add an amp to power the fronts and a DSP and go active on all channels.

More on Steven's.

[Thill444]

One of the things that has had me curious... I have read through a lot of audio threads on this forum and a few other posts on other forums and what I found odd was that other 6th Gen SS1LE owners used LOC for their subwoofers by tapping into the rear panel speakers and stated they got plenty of bass, while the general consensus is that the rear speakers are not getting a full signal.

So today I did some tests with a tone generator and RTA and SPL analyzer. So the rear panel speakers are definitely getting the signal. I was able to play test tones ranging from 1K-60hz and even these limited speakers generated the tones (obviously the drivers are limited). But what is happening is the signal SPL is reduced by at least 15db. So yeah, I agree it's not getting the full signal strength but the speakers are getting the full frequency range.

So this explains why some folks said they had plenty of bass, because their subwoofers are powered and able to compensate for the reduced SPL's.

So I may start by tapping the rear panel speakers as this will ensure no warning chimes or other garbage that are produced by the fronts get carried to the sub, and it will be an easier install and I don't have to cut back the harness for the fronts.

If after this my sub is not playing loud enough, I will tap the fronts and be done with it, but I can confirm 100% that the full frequency spectrum is being played to the rear panel speakers. My amp puts out 500watts RMS (dyno tested) so I don't think it will be a problem to add enough bass to my liking. I am not a bass head for car audio.

On my GT350, I was able to use a tool called Forscan to flatten the factory EQ. I wish I could do this with the Camaro because they have done something to lower the SPL of the rear panel speakers through EQ.

[Msquared]

I haven't heard of the Stevens line, either. That's very interesting! I love the idea of being able to communicate with the man in charge. That's also a feature of Audifrog: Andy Wehmeyer is very available to customers. Those prices and that 95db sensitivity are really nice! I agree with your choice of capacitor given you're using a 6" round in the doors. That's probably going to be just right. Don't worry about sending full-range signal to the door speakers - they won't do much reproduction in the treble range. If you have to make your own adapters, here's a pic of basically what I made after cannibalizing the stock dash speakers, only I retained the stock capacitors on the connectors where this guy didn't:

[Thill444]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I haven't heard of the Stevens line, either. That's very interesting! I love the idea of being able to communicate with the man in charge. That's also a feature of Audifrog: Andy Wehmeyer is very available to customers. Those prices and that 95db sensitivity are really nice! I agree with your choice of capacitor given you're using a 6" round in the doors. That's probably going to be just right. Don't worry about sending full-range signal to the door speakers - they won't do much reproduction in the treble range. If you have to make your own adapters, here's a pic of basically what I made after cannibalizing the stock dash speakers, only I retained the stock capacitors on the connectors where this guy didn't:
]

Thank you for all your help. I came across some of your posts and pictures on how to remove the A pillar trim with the bungee cords. I bookmarked them

The company sent me a shipping notification for the speaker harness so I will push off the dash install for a bit and focus on the sub.

I have done a lot of research on Audiofrog and if I’m not happy with my choices I will go that route. They are next level. And honestly in the world of audio, still affordable. But I spent s lot of time and money on my GT350 going full active with Morel and dual subs and this time I wanted to go lower budget.

But I like to try new things so Audiofrog may be the next jump up, especially once I consider adding an amp and DSP. DSP and full active speakers is a game changer. But the Camaro does not make it easy.

[OutlawV2]

I have a 2018 ZL1 1LE and I just finished my stereo with a 12W6V3 JL Audio stealthbox and a JL Audio W600 amp. The car can literally vibrate the roof damn near off....

JL did all the work for you. Spend the money and get a HAMMER of a sub....My entire install was like 2500-2700 to include box,sub,amp, and install..... And my car fukkin slams... My instagram is OutlawV2.0

[Thill444]

Originally Posted by OutlawV2

I have a 2018 ZL1 1LE and I just finished my stereo with a 12W6V3 JL Audio stealthbox and a JL Audio W600 amp. The car can literally vibrate the roof damn near off....

JL did all the work for you. Spend the money and get a HAMMER of a sub....My entire install was like 2500-2700 to include box,sub,amp, and install..... And my car fukkin slams... My instagram is OutlawV2.0

Thanks for sharing I had the JL Stealthbox in my C7 and really liked it, but I’m turning 50 next year and am just looking for something with mild bass. In my GT350 I had really good mids and dual 6.5” subs and ended up turning the gain of the subs way down because I actually was happy with the 6.5” Morels. I do like bass in my home theatre though I built four 18” subs with flat extension down to 12hz. It would play so low it actually makes me sick to my stomach

Nice car!

[Thill444]

Subwoofer is in, and boy does it make a difference. Honestly it really transformed the sound. I didn’t realize how anemic the bass was.

For those of you have done this you know what a pain it is to take the trunk and side panels apart. It’s not hard, but it’s tight quarters and I went very slow and steady, not a scratch on any of the panels and no broken clips. Add to that I’m 5’11” and 188lbs and the back of the car is really tight quarters.

The biggest challenge was the amplifier I bought from Amazon was defective. I spent well over an hour backtracking and checking all the wires and connections, before figuring out it was the gain knob on the amp. It literary didn’t work.

Luckily the Best Buy 2 miles from my house had a couple good options and I grabbed a Kicker 800x1 which really works great.

Now I’m really excited for the new tweeter and door speakers.

A few things, the remote signal sensing in the Kicker LOC works great and it turns my amp on and off with no issues. For track days I installed hooks on the top of the sub and Velcro straps wrapped around the back metal deck. Speaker wires are quick disconnect so everything comes out super easy. I used Velcro to attach the tire kit to the back of the sub since I modified the styrofoam piece under trunk deck to house the amp and LOC.

I actually enjoy making the cables and soldering and using heat shrink.

I also ran the remote bass knob and it comes up by the front where I can easily adjust the bass.

Just a few pics. Will take some more of the amp area once I finish zip ties. I also ran out of Tesa tape.

[Msquared]

Cool!