07-10-2020, 02:27 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 ss/rs 6 speed manual Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ny
Posts: 584
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Do you need a timing cover gasket to do oil pump?
I am pulling my pan so I am installing a new oil pump while in there. What do I need besides pump and oil pan gasket? I looked at video on you tube that seemed to imply oil pump requires taking off the timing chain cover? I don’t think you need to go that far am I wrong?
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2010 camaro ss/rs, standard 6 speed, ls3 motor, bmr subframe connectors, jba 3” competition Exhaust, stainless works 1 7/8" headers, adm cold air intake, hurst short throw shifter, bo white ported tb, mishimoto aluminum radiator, mishimoto oil cooler.
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07-10-2020, 02:45 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS RS 1LE AGM Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Galion, Oh
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Yes and you can do it without taking the oil pan off. LS3 oil pumps are driven on the crank shaft behind the timing gear.
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07-10-2020, 03:05 PM | #3 | |
Drives: 2010 ss/rs 6 speed manual Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ny
Posts: 584
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Quote:
However I looked up video on you tube (trying to get visual familiarity with what I have to do) and the video claimed to remove timing chain cover to replace the pump. It wasn’t the greatest video but I am no expert mechanic or anything but I not sure why the timing cover has to come off? But I’m not familiar with ls motors either.
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2010 camaro ss/rs, standard 6 speed, ls3 motor, bmr subframe connectors, jba 3” competition Exhaust, stainless works 1 7/8" headers, adm cold air intake, hurst short throw shifter, bo white ported tb, mishimoto aluminum radiator, mishimoto oil cooler.
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07-10-2020, 03:09 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 ss/rs 6 speed manual Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ny
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This is the video I watched I know the oil pan had to be lowered or removed but didn’t think the whole front of motor had to come apart.
https://youtu.be/j1gRcy1Vv1s
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2010 camaro ss/rs, standard 6 speed, ls3 motor, bmr subframe connectors, jba 3” competition Exhaust, stainless works 1 7/8" headers, adm cold air intake, hurst short throw shifter, bo white ported tb, mishimoto aluminum radiator, mishimoto oil cooler.
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07-10-2020, 03:21 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,181
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07-10-2020, 03:48 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 828
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Yes you should replace the timing cover gasket. While you're at it, you'll probably need water pump gaskets and you may want to replace the front seal too.
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07-10-2020, 04:28 PM | #7 |
fo'shizZL1
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You 100% must remove the timing cover.
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07-10-2020, 04:42 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 ss/rs 6 speed manual Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ny
Posts: 584
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Ty everyone for the response. I ordered a gasket kit that has water pump gasket timing cover gasket and the crank seal. I honestly thought I would only need the pan gasket to get the oil pump done. I guess cough it up to more preventative maintenance lol but it’s a lot more work then I was thinking was involved.
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2010 camaro ss/rs, standard 6 speed, ls3 motor, bmr subframe connectors, jba 3” competition Exhaust, stainless works 1 7/8" headers, adm cold air intake, hurst short throw shifter, bo white ported tb, mishimoto aluminum radiator, mishimoto oil cooler.
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07-10-2020, 06:53 PM | #9 |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
Posts: 1,442
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This right here
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07-10-2020, 06:55 PM | #10 |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
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It would be a nightmare to not drop the oil pan down a touch. There is zero room there. I dropped my pan down as much as i could, which was only 3/4" or so, but all of it was needed. Could not have got my fingers in there
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15 Camaro SS- GPI max top end, ESS Vortech V3 9psi, ID 1050s, ZL1 pump, JMS bap, Long tubes, Corsa extreme, Circle D pro 5C, 391 rear, DSS carbon drive shaft, poly cradle bushings, tuned by Ted Jannetty and much much more
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07-10-2020, 08:45 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 ss/rs 6 speed manual Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ny
Posts: 584
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I’m getting the flanges to remove the crossmember under the oil pan. I have to drop the oil pan as my oil dip stick tube broke off trying to remove it to do headers. So I intend on taking the pan out entirely. Considering I’m going this far I figured I might as well do the oil pump. However due to my unfamiliarity with ls based engines I naturally was thinking it was somewhat similar to older Chevy based engines where the oil pump was rear of the motor. My oil pump is still good and hasn’t failed yet but it has 94,000 miles on it as well. Looking at my timing cover today I notice it looks kinda wet so there may be minor leakage going on there. I have zl1 belly pan and don’t notice any oil accumulation on it so I don’t think it’s a big leak. Basically I’m going forward with changing out the oil pump reguardless it isn’t what I thought as it’ll not only replace pump but hopefully clear up whatever leaking in the process. I may even go as far as putting a new timing set on while I’m in that far haven’t decided yet.
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2010 camaro ss/rs, standard 6 speed, ls3 motor, bmr subframe connectors, jba 3” competition Exhaust, stainless works 1 7/8" headers, adm cold air intake, hurst short throw shifter, bo white ported tb, mishimoto aluminum radiator, mishimoto oil cooler.
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07-10-2020, 09:49 PM | #12 | |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,586
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Yep, no way around that.
I would also suggest replacing the front cover crank seal while you have it off. The front timing cover gasket itself is reusable, but I would replace it also. These are inexpensive parts that can save from future headaches. You will want to use some black or red RTV on the corners of the pan when it mates with the timing cover and blue Loctite for the pump to block bolts. Most online write-ups will explain materials needed further. Depending on your budget there are quite a few inexpensive and easy upgrades you can do while you are in there. LS2 'dogbone' timing chain tensioner upgrade, timing chain upgrade or replacement, ARP crank balancer bolt (You MUST replace your crank bolt, so why not go with ARP?) , and all associated gaskets and seals. Quote:
You will also need a few torque wrenches to complete the job per specs, to cover from as low as 18 ft lbs all the way to 250+ ft pounds. Your best bet for detailed instructions is to find one of the quality Cam Swap walkthroughs available on this site, unless you can find a good oil pump swap walkthrough. That will include pretty much every step and torque value needed. Then you can skip any of the valvetrain related stuff and only use what pertains to your upgrades. I am missing quite a bit of detail here, but I wanted to kind of give you to idea that this really needs good planning to go nice and smooth. Make a list of all the tools, parts, and materials you will need to complete the job this way you are not constantly having to stop working to hunt something down. I can't stress enough how important it is to have proper tools on hand. That will make the difference between an easy one day project vs a multiday nightmare hunting down everything needed.
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Last edited by InFiD3ViL; 07-10-2020 at 10:30 PM. |
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07-11-2020, 09:53 PM | #13 | |
Drives: 15 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Mountains of central PA
Posts: 1,442
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Quote:
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15 Camaro SS- GPI max top end, ESS Vortech V3 9psi, ID 1050s, ZL1 pump, JMS bap, Long tubes, Corsa extreme, Circle D pro 5C, 391 rear, DSS carbon drive shaft, poly cradle bushings, tuned by Ted Jannetty and much much more
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