Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDan
^^
Again
Why didn't you tell the dealer that the work they performed was un-authorized and you want it removed from your bill and they would give you back your leaky gas cap and remove the charges. That's the first thing I learned in shop class and I've had to use it a few time's like when I took my red 67 Camaro to a detailer and he tried to charge me an extra $150 for "extra buffing" I said "I didn't authorize that besides I only have the amount I signed for anyways" and showed him the cash and he grabbed it and tossed me my keys.
|
They had already done the work. They charge for a test. I couldn't justify stealing my money back. I'm not saying they owe me anything. I'm saying they are a shotty POC organization. I'll never go back, and I'll advise anyone else not to as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lauryn200
Join jeepforum.com
They have the forum broken down to the different models,if you have the code of the computer/jeep.
Nine out of ten those guys know what the code means or can give you an idea,that you can try to figure out what the problem is.
Cheaper in the long run....................
|
If I'd known the code, I could have googled and seen the 'Emissions' name in it and just got a gas cap. Then, if the light is still on there a week later, go in and have them check. I still say it's crappy they charge for that. I just needed to know the code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew
sucks, but if you don't have a scanner just about any autoparts store will run codes for no charge, then as Lauren said there are great sites out there for Jeep enthusiasts that can help you out. I just had to change ball joints on my Jeep, dealer and actually the private mechanics I checked was around 650 for parts and labor. i found Moog makes push in ball joins so i got a set of those and found a mechanic that would change them and got it done for less than half that. Every dealership I have ever dealt with has been overpriced regardless of the make, just the way it is. Besides if you want to pay dealership prices you can usually end up getting a better upgraded part for the same or less than what they charge, ie the Moog ball joints instead of the crappy stocker.
|
I bought Moog control arms last night. The ball joints don't come out. Gotta buy the whole arm. Same with the fuel filter in it. Gotta buy the whole damn thing. It's a crock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLL67RSSS
When it comes to part prices that's standard operating procedure for dealers, also true for a lot of businesses. Double what ever you pay for stuff you're reselling to your customers. Fortunately for me there is a local parts chain (Speedway Auto Parts) that carries GM parts, and about 90% of the time it costs me exactly half of what the dealer wants.
|
Hmmmm.......... I just never paid only half. It's always been more like 80%.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepWarz
$700 for a fuel rail on a 91 new yorker. Doesn't even come with the pressure regulator. To get the parts to fix the drivers side window cable they wanted $1100 and they didn't even have the parts..
No wonder they went out of business.
|
