Cargo vent problem
 

The C7 coupe has a cargo area vent system that opens when the hatch is opened and current flows through the lights. Doesn't work on my C7! A door must be opened to close the hatch. Does anyone else have this problem?
I have noted stand-off bumpers that are adjustable and which may cause the problem. Any suggestions?

Give it time.....at about 3000, it gets much easier....the problem is a new car prob, the gaskets need to flatten a bit. At 4200, mine closes with one hand now....

I have to open a door also.

As Glen says, give it a liitle time to let the hatch seals soften up and compress. Also, if its cold in your location, that may contribute since the seals will be less flexible. And keep in mind, no car I know of will latch the hatch or trunk entirely if just letting gravity do all the work, especially as there are gas struts specifically intended to hold it up. As long as it hits the first catch, just gently push the hatch the rest of the way down. Only powered latches will pull it down completely (like the C6 Corvette had) but those add unnecessary weight, cost and complexity. Modern cars are considerably more air-tight as a result of reducing road noise and improving aerodynamics.

Thanks for the tips! And now another subject, ... info that I received from GM rep Dan Garrett at the museum in October:
If you break a windshield, front or rear, it is a major operation to replace. They are glued in and bits and pieces remaining in the rubber seal have to be picked out one by one.
If the rear is broken, replacing the hatch assembly to which the glass is mounted may be the best option. If done of course it will have to be painted. Broken windshields are often hard to avoid ... Insurance Co's will go nuts when they hear about this.

:pray:

I don't think its as big a problem as he's making it out to be. Every car on the road today has the windshield and all non-moving glass glued in, and it's been that way for decades. Glass shops have to clear out the broken bits now and clean the mounting surface thoroughly so the new glass sets correctly and the new adhesive sticks properly. You just want to make sure you get a HUD specific windshield if you have the heads-up display so it reflects properly.

Good point concerning glass that will accommodate the HUD.
My understanding with Garrett was that the C7 windows are REALLY glued in. ... Not the soft rubbery glue. No first hand experience however... except, while on the plant tour the window installer commented that after the robot quickly applied the glue the installer had only a short time to get the window in place. Garrett added that replacing the whole rear frame assembly would be the preferred approach for the rear replacement. .... Just a thought to file away.

Well, if the plant does indeed use a new and different adhesive (which from your description sounds like a variant of epoxy) I suspect the first replacements will be learning experiences. But as always, the aftermarket will likely come up with an easier & less expensive way to replace the glass than GM recommends. My guess would be a solvent/cleaner developed for removing the adhesive residue. In the meantime, don't anyone break your glass!

I have read on all the forums about 2 windshields being replaced - no problem with adhesives or installation - one done by Safelite and the other a dealer....the big problem was the glass is OEM and not avail right away, like most C7 parts these days while in start up..

Not sure if this requires the vehicle to be "on".

1) The C7 marks the first use of a “shape memory alloy wire” in a production vehicle.
To save weight (approximately 1.1 pounds) and reduce complexity, the new Corvette uses a smart material wire to operate a cabin vent in the cargo area that required a motorized actuator on previous models. Triggered by the opening of the hatch, heat generated by an electrical current similar to that of a interior courtesy lamp is used to contract a wire, thereby moving a lever that opens the vent, letting air escape to reduce cabin pressure and make shutting the lid easier. Once the hatch is closed, the current cuts off, the wire returns to its original shape, and a return spring closes the vent to maintain cabin temperature.
GM has earned 247 patents for smart materials such as this over five years of research and development, and it figures there are approximately 200 motorized systems in the typical vehicle that could be replaced with smart materials. Typically made of copper-aluminum-nickel or nickel-titanium, smart materials can change their shape, strength, and/or stiffness when acted upon by heat, stress, a magnetic field, or voltage, and return to their original shape when the trigger is deactivated.

The car does not need to be on for the vent to work. On a couple of frosty mornings I've popped the hatch and seen a little steam come from vented panel across the back of the cargo area. This is the vent material heating up and evaporating moisture collected on it. I did not have the engine running.

This air vent shorted out in my C7 and is being replaced by the dealer. The entire rear of the car had to be removed to fix it. Car still in shop after a week wainting for the part.

Does the magic wire current stay on as long as the lid is up or does it time out like the lights? If you use the battery maintainer probably not good to close it tight onto the cord.

The magic wire times out with the cargo area light after 10 min. My "magic wire" does not work as advertised either and hatch closing is a "bummer"! .... disappointed ... I lower the hatch - then I gently press the hatch closed with my hand on top ..... and then wipe my fingerprints off.
I do not pinch the battery charger cord. After 10 min only the battery charger "receptacle" remains hot. - so that you can charge or power an accessory.