12-16-2015, 02:50 PM | #1 | ||||
Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,650
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[FIXED] What Is Wrong With My Car AGAIN
[FIXED] So after it wouldn't start at all had it flat bedded to the dealer (really should get a tow hook now lol) everyone was wrong the problem turned out to be "internal failure in powertrain control module DTC P0606 00-PCM internal fault" it was fixed in 1 day (tomorrow is New Years) under WARRANTY. So my 2011 Camaro SS with CAI, longtube headers, hiflow cats, no mufflers, and a dyno tune was fixed under warranty. The only bad thing is I lost the tune. Oh well turned out better than I thought.
------------------------------------------------ 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 ~12K miles. So previously as you can see in this thread here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=427353 I was having sluggish starts sometimes so most of you told me to change the battery so that fixed it I guess. But now sometimes when I start it there is a tick or 2 sound right before it cranks I don't know what that's about? Now onto the problem, a couple days ago this happened and I took a short video when it happened. I tried starting the car and it wouldn't crank and a buzzing sound was coming from the engine bay and as you can see it was coming out of the fuse box. The dash was saying service parking assist and service stabilitrak. Right when I closed the hood the buzzing went away and I was able to start my car normally: Now today this morning it happened again. The same message and buzzing sound but this time my car wouldn't start at all. The check engine light is flashing and the 3 traction control lights are on. You can hear the buzzing from the inside in the video and all the errors and lights: In the afternoon today I came back and tried it again and it won't crank either but the buzzing sound doesn't come on and the check engine light isn't flashing. It looks regular but won't turn on: What do you guys think is the problem. I unplugged the battery to see if it will work again so we'll see what happens. And like I said previously when I installed my longtube headers I forgot to unplug the battery and when I was putting the dipstick tube back in it sparked on something but that was like 9 months ago and haven't had problems. Thanks for the help. Edit: I plugged the battery back in to see if it would turn on but nope doesn't do anything but no codes or CEL. Gonna leave it unplugged over night and see tomorrow... Edit:Ok so after having the car battery unplugged overnight I came back to try it the next day. This time when I put the key in and turned power on (I didn't crank) I got the same lights and buzzing noise as yesterday. I went out and checked and found the relay that was buzzing then it stopped (does it need to be replaced?) but I don't think that matters because I rearranged different relays last night and it still didn't turn on so I don't know why it did today. Then I went in the car and cranked it and you can see what it day like yesterday the click sound but atleast it turned on! Then I turned it off and back on. You can still hear how it ticks right before it cranks. So what needs to be replaced? I don't want to drive it, because then I would be playing Russian roulette having to risk getting stuck and it not turning on when I'm out. Here's the vid:
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Last edited by Homeless Man; 02-28-2016 at 06:14 AM. |
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12-16-2015, 02:57 PM | #2 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 4,018
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Could it be a fuse? Or a short somewhere? Any part of the engine bay smell like burned plastic?
You may be out of warranty, not sure... but for something like this, it'd be good to get it checked out by the dealer service department. May cost something to get it checked out initially... but at least, once you know the issue, you can probably fix it yourself. |
12-16-2015, 03:13 PM | #3 |
Drives: 0000 Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: none
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The Buzzing Sound sound like a relay that is the coil is attempting to close, but can't hold due to low voltage.
I am an electrician. Take a voltage reading. If the battery is good, Start looking for a loose connection, bad or corroded wire. |
12-16-2015, 03:13 PM | #4 |
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Could be the TSB loose battery cable problem depending on the yr of your car. See this http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21543
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12-16-2015, 03:18 PM | #5 |
Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,650
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I don't have warranty and I'm tuned lol. But also I don't know how to check the wiring like if something is loose or not
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12-16-2015, 03:18 PM | #6 |
Master Amateur Mechanic
Drives: Victory Red 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South Barrington, IL
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you have a bad relay. nothing major. open the fuse box. put your finger on each of those black boxes. whichever one is shaking is the bad relay. to test this find another one in your engine bay that your car doesn't need to turn on and pull it out. then switch them. if it works it is the relay. then you go to the auto store and get a new 6 dollar relay and boom. done.
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2011 Victory Red 22/RS
Forged 418 Ls3 from Texas Speed, LSX heads from Texas Speed, Tick Turbo cam, Jakes/PCM/Billet 4l80e, 3200 Stall converter from Circle D, DSS 750 hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, stock 3.23 gears, TSW Wheels Front 20x10 Rear 20x11.5, Fabberage Twin Turbo Supercharger Killer kit with Upgraded Turbos, Squash Dual fuel pump, Full BMR Suspension/bushings, Holly High Rise intake manifold, ID1300 Injectors, Megan Coilovers, PCM of NC plug and play trans kit. HP/TQ TBA |
12-16-2015, 03:25 PM | #7 | |
Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
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Quote:
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12-16-2015, 03:27 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Washington
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I'd start checking the battery connections at the battery, battery post in the engine compartment, and at the starter. Check all the grounds, battery to body and engine to body.
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12-16-2015, 03:28 PM | #9 |
Drives: 0000 Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: none
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Those other start video look like low voltage also.
Charge battery. Then try again. Not saying it is the battery. If it is new battery start at the battery terminal, follow the cable. You will find it. |
12-16-2015, 03:33 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS IBM Camaro Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chittenango, NY, USA
Posts: 7,219
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What year is the car?
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12-16-2015, 03:37 PM | #11 |
Homeless Life Chose Me
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12-16-2015, 03:55 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Utah
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I've seen aftermarket headers melt starter wires due to lack of heat shielding, that's somewhere to check as well. Do a voltage drop across the wire.
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12-16-2015, 05:18 PM | #13 |
Resident nomad
Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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The folks posting here are pointing you in the right direction. The noise is a relay that is trying to close (low voltage). Start with the easy connections first, such as your battery connections. Even a slightly loose terminal connection can cause this. Then I'd look at the relays. If none are "buzzing", I'd just buy one (they are cheap), and take turns plugging the known new on into each relay connection. If none of that works, start looking at faulty ground connections.
Electrical issues can be a big PITA, and I'm no expert by any means. I have learned over the years to start with the simplest solution first though. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
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12-16-2015, 05:21 PM | #14 |
Homeless Life Chose Me
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I switched around a lot of the big boxes (black and silver) in the fuse box and a lot of the small fuses that had to do with ignition and start (took picture so did it correctly) and still the same.
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