[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, I decided to go with the Might Mouse Mild 800 instead of continuing the trouble shooting of the Elite E2-X (it'll be here this week). After further speaking with others that have catch canes and have the same valve covers as I have. None seem to have the issue I'm having, but also they all use MM cans. Their valves covers being the same, obviously don't have baffles either. I'm not saying baffles wouldn't have any effect. But, to trouble shoot by reinstalling my stock valve covers just seems to be more work than going with a different can that others are having success with. One thing point out to me with all this is. When the system is "restricted" too much, by using the type of PCV valve Elite sends with the kit and the additional restrictor they recommended I use. This can cause an adverse effect, as I think is the case with my install as I've ever had this much oil pooled up under my lid in this short amount of time. So the Might Mouse PCV valve isn't restricted and the install will get me down to (2) hoses vs (3). But while working on the car and getting the Elite removed. I notice my serpentine belt looks frayed a bit on the inside edge? The only thing I can think is the throttle body adapter I had to use might be protruding too far down and rubbing against the belt slightly. Not sure, I'll check it tonight and try to see what could be rubbing the belt.

Something not jiving, even a $15 amazon catch can would not allow that much oil in over that amount of run time

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, the frustration is at maximum, almost at a supernova level. Still issues with oil soaking in the supercharger. I was out yesterday driving the car pretty hard and was in to boost a lot, with a lot of WOT pulls against other cars (not racing of course that would not be wise). Then this morning, I decided to take the ZL1 to my client vs my SUV. So, I started her up and to my disbelief, again the greyish oil smelling smoke came from my exhaust for about 5 seconds. I shut the car off and took my SUV instead. This evening I removed the supercharger lid and to my disbelief, oil everywhere. I decided to once again remove the bolts for the supercharger and inspect the diverter valve etc. The O-rings were in place and looked fine, and the only thing I could see that could be an issue. The angled hose barb where the catch can connects wasn’t tight, like really loose. It only took 1 turn outward before it came out of the end of the diverter valve. Not sure if this could cause my oil soak problem or not. Also, by doing so I did confirm the diverter valve is already restricted and not sure why a second restrictor is suggested. I also found out that my Venturi valve was installed and pointing in the correct direction. But, now I’m to the point of: 1) remove the catch can and reinstall the stock diverter valve and go back to stock for that part of the engine or, 2) get a Mighty Mouse with a breather and try again! Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

EDIT: So, it's was suggested again from two separate and reliable sources that the issues is most likely related to the valve covers and having no baffles built in that I've installed. Both sources said to trouble shoot, reinstall the stock valve covers and give it another try. So that will be the goal this weekend !

What advice did Katech provide on this?

[WhiteMale]

Holy Sh that was a lot of oil.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

What advice did Katech provide on this?

Mike at Katech simply indicated that they use MM cans on their builds and they use the same Katech valve covers you and I have. They do not use any auxiliary vacuum systems for anything related to PCV/Catch Cans and they don't have the issue I'm having. I also got some good input from GarageKing regarding the IN hoses may be too restricted from both PCV valve diverter and the inline hose restrictor Elite sent me. GarageKing indicated that restricting the IN hose can cause adverse effects. This would make sense, as I'm seeing more oil now than ever before and all I did was add the inline restrictor Elite told me to add (to the IN line that is already restricted due to the PCV valve diverter). Both Mike, GarageKing and support at Mighty Mouse suggested if I could, reinstall my stock valve covers as a test and see if this resolves the issue. This would at least suggest a valve cover with or without a baffle was related to the issue or not. So, I have the new MM Mild 800HP inbound and will install it and here's my plan: 1) Install the MM Can with everything else as is, 2) If that doesn't work and I still get oil pooling up, I'll purchase the DSX Billet Valve covers that have full length baffles, 3) If all else fails, I'll go back to stock valve covers and call it a day ! Now my only additional thought is since the supercharger is basically sitting there not bolted to my engine. Do I just send it to Kong or Jokerz and get the port and polish done and add a 103mm TB ???? Rabbit hole rabbit hole !!!

[Camfab]

Your still funding vendors “earn while they learn program”
My two cents regarding supercharger modifications. I know you can’t help yourself and you’re going to do it, but there are levels. This is my opinion, the use of epoxy internally was something done back in the day when cylinder heads were cast iron and major mods were made to the port shapes that broke into the water jackets. Epoxy was a racers cheat to make more radical designs viable. It was common on drag cars. Using epoxy internally on any street driven car that sees continuous heat cycles is asking for trouble. It’s what you’d do on a prototype in this day and age. Take my advice for what it is, aftermarket parts are ALWAYS a compromise, just depends on how much tolerance you have for failure.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by Camfab

Your still funding vendors “earn while they learn program”
My two cents regarding supercharger modifications. I know you can’t help yourself and you’re going to do it, but there are levels. This is my opinion, the use of epoxy internally was something done back in the day when cylinder heads were cast iron and major mods were made to the port shapes that broke into the water jackets. Epoxy was a racers cheat to make more radical designs viable. It was common on drag cars. Using epoxy internally on any street driven car that sees continuous heat cycles is asking for trouble. It’s what you’d do on a prototype in this day and age. Take my advice for what it is, aftermarket parts are ALWAYS a compromise, just depends on how much tolerance you have for failure.

Thanks for the input. That fact was also mentioned on my "Port SC thread here! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619507

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

I've been getting a lot of input from both GarageKing and Jason at Elite Engineering. Jason has been diligent on working with me through on all points of my install and what could be the root cause to my oil soaking issue. Jason has even offered to do phone calls and facetime call to help me after hours and on the weekend. He shared this stock LT4 valve cover cutaway photo with me. He did this showing me the level of engineering GM put into something as simple as a valve cover to make it function at the highest performance of the LT4 engine. SOCAL.M6.ZLE is also helping which I can't think him enough. He has the same valve covers that I do, but he uses the vented might mouse can wit a breather. So back and forth on how to proceed next. One thing I came to understand quickly here on the forum, most all members here on Camero6, they check their egos at the door, and truly do help when they can so others can benefit from their own experience ! Thanks!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Quick update on the catch can/oil pulling issue: I purchased the Mighty Mouse Mild 800. It came with a diverter valve that has a 1/2 bore straight through vs the Elite diverter valve that has a tiny (like 1/8) on the end going into the engine and 3/8 where the hose connects. I agreed with Jason at Elite to do the following: 1) Drill the Elite diverter valve from the small end to 9/64 and remove the inline restrictor on that sane hose run and then give it a try. So today I had to go to Cincinnati for a client and decided to take the ZL1. I got back and popped the lid. After 233 miles and 10 hard pulls. The oil under the lid is way better then ever before, but there is still oil. I feel too much for 200 miles. Just some traces here and there, no pooling, but more than expected. I'm now going to switch over fully to the Mighty Mouse kit and give it 200+ miles and hit boots 10 times as I did with the Elite and then check the results.

Also, to do a fair test I still have the Katech valve covers install and have not tested with the stock valve covers. I also order a Griptech 2.3" Upper Pulley Kit w/green belt. I don't track the car, so I'm not so worried about heat soak and the computer pulling timing.

I still haven't installed the DSM 2gal Fender Coolant tank kit yet, but hope to at the same time I install the upper pully kit.

I'll report back!

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Quick update on the catch can/oil pulling issue: I purchased the Mighty Mouse Mild 800. It came with a diverter valve that has a 1/2 bore straight through vs the Elite diverter valve that has a tiny (like 1/8) on the end going into the engine and 3/8 where the hose connects. I agreed with Jason at Elite to do the following: 1) Drill the Elite diverter valve from the small end to 9/64 and remove the inline restrictor on that sane hose run and then give it a try. So today I had to go to Cincinnati for a client and decided to take the ZL1. I got back and popped the lid. After 233 miles and 10 hard pulls. The oil under the lid is way better then ever before, but there is still oil. I feel too much for 200 miles. Just some traces here and there, no pooling, but more than expected. I'm now going to switch over fully to the Mighty Mouse kit and give it 200+ miles and hit boots 10 times as I did with the Elite and then check the results.

Also, to do a fair test I still have the Katech valve covers install and have not tested with the stock valve covers. I also order a Griptech 2.3" Upper Pulley Kit w/green belt. I don't track the car, so I'm not so worried about heat soak and the computer pulling timing.

I still haven't installed the DSM 2gal Fender Coolant tank kit yet, but hope to at the same time I install the upper pully kit.

I'll report back!

Well at least you will be able to rule in or rule out the can/cans being the culprit for the excessive oil and by doing a fair comparison.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Quick update on the catch can/oil pulling issue: I purchased the Mighty Mouse Mild 800. It came with a diverter valve that has a 1/2 bore straight through vs the Elite diverter valve that has a tiny (like 1/8) on the end going into the engine and 3/8 where the hose connects. I agreed with Jason at Elite to do the following: 1) Drill the Elite diverter valve from the small end to 9/64 and remove the inline restrictor on that sane hose run and then give it a try. So today I had to go to Cincinnati for a client and decided to take the ZL1. I got back and popped the lid. After 233 miles and 10 hard pulls. The oil under the lid is way better then ever before, but there is still oil. I feel too much for 200 miles. Just some traces here and there, no pooling, but more than expected. I'm now going to switch over fully to the Mighty Mouse kit and give it 200+ miles and hit boots 10 times as I did with the Elite and then check the results.

Also, to do a fair test I still have the Katech valve covers install and have not tested with the stock valve covers. I also order a Griptech 2.3" Upper Pulley Kit w/green belt. I don't track the car, so I'm not so worried about heat soak and the computer pulling timing.

I still haven't installed the DSM 2gal Fender Coolant tank kit yet, but hope to at the same time I install the upper pully kit.

I'll report back!

That 3/16” hole looks about right as far a vacuum restrictor goes, garage king has a good explanation of vacuum, volume and rate in one of his vids. I consider him a very smart mechanic but I’m biased. I am also Canadian.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

That 3/16” hole looks about right as far a vacuum restrictor goes, garage king has a good explanation of vacuum, volume and rate in one of his vids. I consider him a very smart mechanic but I’m biased. I am also Canadian.

Yeah Thanks! John has actually been very helpful to me on this matter!!! He gave me a very long email explaining exactly what you just mentioned!

Now for a very NOT SO GOOD update: After work, I decided to go ahead and remove the Elite E2-X kit components and installed the MM Mild 800 kit components. I already had the lid off from earlier in the day. So, I took out the supercharger hold down bolts and I lifted it up to replace the Elite diverter valve with the MM diverter valve. Then I eased the supercharger back in place, started the torque procedures for the main supercharger bolts, I did #1, #2, #3 and #4. Then it occurred to me, it seemed like the bolts were torquing down kind of with a soft stop vs a confirming and firm click on the torque wrench. I confirmed it was set to 89 in-lbs and continued. Then I started thinking, this would be the third time I’ve re-used the “use once" bolts and was something physically happening to the actual bolt integrity. Then it happened, #6 snapped off. So now the supercharger is coming off and I get to try and extract a bolt! The crazy thing is, I actually have a new complete GM Intake Manifold Gasket Kit - Part # 12679527 in my tool box. I'm actually not really bothered by this problem too much. I figure it will be a process and it will work or wont and then I'll deal with it. I get my bother in-law to assist. He's been a machinist for 40 years and worked at a power plant and has built more high-performance street cars than I even know. So, I'm sure he'll know exactly what and how to do this! But, now I'm thinking, since the supercharger is coming all the way off anyway. Would I be crazy not to just go ahead and get it X-Ported or Race ported by Kong / Jokerz! Now is also the time I'll get the DSM 2gal Fender tank installed as well. Then, after all this is done! Maybe I'll just stop working on the ZL1 and start enjoying driving it!

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention - I posted a few posts up a photo showing my blower belt fraying on the inside edge. Well, I discovered that's because the Soler throttle body to snout adapter causes the TB to get pushed outward and slight over due to angle change. Just enough where it has rubbed the lower corner portion of the, where the black electronics area is where the wire harness connects. It's literally almost touching the belt as its just sitting there with no load on it. So, I'm sure under heavy throttle/boost situations this forces components just enough where it ever so slight was making contact and has frayed the belt a little. It probably won't do it much longer, but I feel this is reason enough to send the blow out for porting service and then I can get rid of the 100mm Soler and replace it with a 103mm and get rid of the TB to snout adapter!

EDIT: I did run and install the rest of the MM Mild 800 kit, figured it wouldn't be in the way removing the SC and extracting the bolt (but with my luck it will be)

[CalgaryZL1]

I heard some scary stories with reusing them supercharger bolts, so I went out and bought a kit right away when I added a can, my guess is they are soft enough to expand and contract in concert with all the aluminum when it heat cycles

[Megahurtz]

The Supercharger bolts are scary TBH. I usually tighten by hand if I don't have a replacement set on hand. You can also get some stainless hardware to replace them so that you don't have to worry but its hard finding the length of those bolts. I haven't found a direct replacement yet. The ARH set is a little short and the threads are a little short too. There are some cheap amazon ones but the whole bolt is threaded, its slightly shorter, and you need a washer on the top to avoid deforming the factory washers(which shortens the threads into the heads even more).

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

CalgaryZL1 & Thinks for the info... yeah I'm not doing this one on my own!! I'm going to have my brother in-law assist, this has been his background/life for 50+ years. I've not found any true replacements either and I've search many industrial suppliers as well that manufacture to car marks fab shops etc. If I find a replacement, I will for sure report back! I will use the new GM kit I bought this time and hope for the best!!!