Help me rebuild ......... what to buy ... what to re-use... etc.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by RonC

I have been following the "adventure" with your car & was wondering if you had thought about keeping the original block for any collector car value later? Not that the early pre-order Camaros may be that "special" in the future, but you never know. It might make a difference if you keep it a long time.

I have a red 67 RS-SS Camaro high option dealer demo car that still has the matching # engine that was rebuilt 30 years ago. Most just replaced with a new shortblock but I'm sure glad they didn't on this one, it even has factory cruise control put on only 305 67's.

The "Mini Stroker" using your block sounds tempting to me if you can swing it. Hope it all works out well for you.

Ron

That's my plan as of now. If I do go with a new shortblock 419 I will keep this one to rebuild at my leasure later. But first I will rebuild this one and maybe bore it a little bigger. 402-ish?

Probably just bore it enough to get it nice and clean new.

[PQ]

Keep in mind the engine had 95k miles on it.

Only three of the main cap bearings came up not blurry.

All 5 bearings came up on the block.

Few pics of what the typical wear seems to be on all of it.

I'm still not sure I found where the oil pressure was lost.

What say you guys?






























In order 1-8 rod caps then 1-8 rod mains.

[PQ]

BTW, in this pic the yellow arrows point to the oil flow holes in the cam bearing. All 5 of them have both holes in the bearing.

But the hole with the red circle does NOT have a oil channel under it. It is just the block seat under it. It is this way on all 5 cam bearings.

I'm assuming this is normal?

[grocerygetter]

While I think it's awesome to be sharing all of this and I love to see the pics and learn...those guys at Livernois are top notch. Tell them your goals and trust them to put what u need together. End of story.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by grocerygetter

While I think it's awesome to be sharing all of this and I love to see the pics and learn...those guys at Livernois are top notch. Tell them your goals and trust them to put what u need together. End of story.

I agree with you. But if I can get it done for 4k less, which I suspect I can, and have a forged 376 rebuild then that's what I want to do.

Anything I buy will be bought and speced from them. But I don't have the 10k right now that it will take to buy a long block.

I am exploring a way to use what I can and make a solid build while I save for a whole new engine. Might just end up building a really solid engine.

In the coming weeks I will know. I have a trip to Utah this next week so the week after I will get with Livernois and begin this build.

[zebra]

i'm surprised nobody's shown this yet with all the talk of blower efficiency on xxx cubed engine. i'll warn you, it takes some post-elementary math to figure out the CFM number to use, but once you find out how much air your target engine will move (through cylinder volume, compression, head flow, etc), this chart will show you the target boost level to shoot for & what RPM you have to turn to achieve that.

Originally Posted by IRPQ

Hmmm....... I just don't like the sound of the cog drive.

Might have to just do the 8 rib. $$$$$$$

I assume Ted has a 8 rib pulley for his supertensioner.

or you can drill a couple tiny holes into the cog valleys to quieten it down (which, with a big thumping cam, i don't see why you wouldn't want a little whine to augment it).
from what i understand, the sound is created from the air being compressed into the valley by the belt, and if you alleviate that pressure, you lose some of the sound. that's what i've seen on a couple cars, anyway.
that way, you get the quiet, wussy-sounding operation & get to eliminate any rear belt slip - which, as Jamie mentioned, starts becoming an issue above 10psi on the factory 10rib rear.

then there's also the gargantuan LPE 14-rib contraption that also works quite well & has it's own independent tensioner to keep the strain off the jackshaft. it just requires a lot more room & money than a cog setup.

either way you choose, if you're looking at 10+psi, you might need a 8rib front drive anyway. i know i was slipping a good bit @ 11psi with my stock 6rib

Originally Posted by IRPQ

I agree with you. But if I can get it done for 4k less, which I suspect I can, and have a forged 376 rebuild then that's what I want to do.
...

another thing to consider is that when i was talking with Owen about stroking options, he recommended a 376 or 390 over anything 400+ (i was thinking 408, 416, etc) for my 2300 for all the reasons mentioned a couple pages back regarding over-spinning, excess heat, etc

to be honest (more for $$ reasons than anything now), i'm looking at 382/383 kits for my LS1 now, but i just ain't convinced yet if it'll make the top end i want. i'm pretty sure 700+ tq to the ground will be easy, but 700+ hp will be the hard part because with an undersquare engine, the power is gonna come on pretty early & i wouldn't want to spin it more than 6500. that means i'm gonna need some magical heads and a top-heavy cam - which will be blowing more of the boosted air right out the tail pipes.

life sure is hard trying to make big numbers with an LS1 & a PD blower

Originally Posted by IRPQ

...
In the coming weeks I will know. I have a trip to Utah this next week so the week after I will get with Livernois and begin this build.

not that far out of the way...
just sayin'

[Scott@Bjorn3D]

PQ must be dang hard on this car with all the issues he has had. I just go thru back tires, he breaks everything.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by zebra

i'm surprised nobody's shown this yet with all the talk of blower efficiency on xxx cubed engine. i'll warn you, it takes some post-elementary math to figure out the CFM number to use, but once you find out how much air your target engine will move (through cylinder volume, compression, head flow, etc), this chart will show you the target boost level to shoot for & what RPM you have to turn to achieve that. Post grade school. That leaves me out. lol



or you can drill a couple tiny holes into the cog valleys to quieten it down (which, with a big thumping cam, i don't see why you wouldn't want a little whine to augment it).
from what i understand, the sound is created from the air being compressed into the valley by the belt, and if you alleviate that pressure, you lose some of the sound. that's what i've seen on a couple cars, anyway.
that way, you get the quiet, wussy-sounding operation & get to eliminate any rear belt slip - which, as Jamie mentioned, starts becoming an issue above 10psi on the factory 10rib rear. Wussy sounding......

then there's also the gargantuan LPE 14-rib contraption that also works quite well & has it's own independent tensioner to keep the strain off the jackshaft. it just requires a lot more room & money than a cog setup.

either way you choose, if you're looking at 10+psi, you might need a 8rib front drive anyway. i know i was slipping a good bit @ 11psi with my stock 6rib First things first. Get my engine built. I will do a cog set-up the way Jamie had/has his set. I know I can spin it, just don't know which avenue yet.


another thing to consider is that when i was talking with Owen about stroking options, he recommended a 376 or 390 over anything 400+ (i was thinking 408, 416, etc) for my 2300 for all the reasons mentioned a couple pages back regarding over-spinning, excess heat, etc

to be honest (more for $$ reasons than anything now), i'm looking at 382/383 kits for my LS1 now, but i just ain't convinced yet if it'll make the top end i want. i'm pretty sure 700+ tq to the ground will be easy, but 700+ hp will be the hard part because with an undersquare engine, the power is gonna come on pretty early & i wouldn't want to spin it more than 6500. that means i'm gonna need some magical heads and a top-heavy cam - which will be blowing more of the boosted air right out the tail pipes. I was thinking .040 over piston bore when I have the block cleaned. That would be 408ci. Or maybe .038 over and have a 402 (just sounds cool lol) Camaro Joe (fb) was telling me about it. 390ci would be nice. I'll land in there somewhere. My biggest problem is finding somewhere to do the bore. I know Livernois can do it as well but that means sending the block and I'd rather save money on assembly, shipping, and work here local. I have to get some numbers in cost here. Might just send my block to them and tell them to do it. I'd just have more fun doing it myself and could do it over time cost wise.

life sure is hard trying to make big numbers with an LS1 & a PD blower



Attachment 547289
not that far out of the way...
just sayin'

haha, I'm flying. Leave here in about an hour to head to the airport. I'd damn sure stop in and see you guys.

Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D

PQ must be dang hard on this car with all the issues he has had. I just go thru rear tires, he breaks everything.

haha, Funny thing is until now I haven't broke anything on my car (or body lol) that was not directly related to Savini. That Savini vibration was killing my car.

Struts - Savini
LCAs - Savini
Drive shaft bearing - Savini
Wheels/Tires - Savini
Engine - Comp cam/Vengeance

[zebra]

all fair points. have fun!

and yes, i'm alive

[PQ]

Found a local machine shop. gotta get with Livernois for some advice.

[Supercharged SS]

They Livernois mini stroker looks like a great option. Just so you know, mine is a brand new, top of the line parts build, hell the rods were $1550, and even with a new ls3 block its over $12k so far. The engine isn't even done being built. That's the up to date estimate as of 4pm today. I know because I just dropped off the cash.

Take you time and shop around. Get with Matt at FSP if you need help with parts. Getting a ready to go short block will save you tons.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

They Livernois mini stroker looks like a great option. Just so you know, mine is a brand new, top of the line parts build, hell the rods were $1550, and even with a new ls3 block its over $12k so far. The engine isn't even done being built. That's the up to date estimate as of 4pm today. I know because I just dropped off the cash.

Take you time and shop around. Get with Matt at FSP if you need help with parts. Getting a ready to go short block will save you tons.

You're much tougher on yours than me. hahaha Can't wait to see yours run.

Ya, I'll know more soon. If it becomes cheaper to let Livernois do the entire thing then I'll do that. But I'm going to get a cost of having my crank and block done here. Found a really good shop finally. Had to go to the local racers. hahaha Crank could maybe be turned and redone and I can have the block bored as well. If the savings is worth it I'll have Livernois send me some forged pistons and rods and a cam with the valve train parts. Sure I'd like to just throw it all away and buy a bulletproof engine but I can't do that. I'll still end up with a much stronger engine than it was.

[f5journal]

I'm glad you are making at least some mental progress here PQ

[Chris@Livernois]

PQ let me know the plans sir. Lets help you get this thing back on the road