Help! - Got the Codes - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Visago · 12-08-2015, 08:53 AM

Need to see if any of you have had this situation because it's driving me crazy. Did a pretty substantial search on here and online in general and am not finding a definitive answer or solution. I have a 2010 SS M6 and all of a sudden when I randomly punch the gas the service stabilitrac/reduced engine power comes on. Sucks because it always happens at inopportune moments and knocks the power down to about 5 miles an hour max. Can be unsafe at times depending on if you are at a place where you can get off the road or not and it is definitely bumming me out about driving the car. Once it happens I have to pull over, shut the car off, then wait several minutes and it will restart again. Has anyone had this issue? I read somewhere that GM did not have a good fix for this problem and their solution was to clean out the throttle body but then people had it happen again after the fact. I blew out my mass air flow & throttle position sensors with electrical contact cleaner, checked all my plug wires to make sure they were connected, and nothing else seems out of whack. Figured I'd post here before I end up taking it to the dealer. I like to try and work on my own car as much as possible first but it seems like I may not have another alternative but to take it in. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

JerTM · 12-08-2015, 09:32 AM

Is there a CEL with the stabilitrak light? Aside from sudden hard acceleration, does the vehicle drive normal? Does the vehicle sometimes act strange when slow speed braking? There are a few things this could be.

Visago · 12-08-2015, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerTM

Is there a CEL with the stabilitrak light? Aside from sudden hard acceleration, does the vehicle drive normal? Does the vehicle sometimes act strange when slow speed braking? There are a few things this could be.

Service engine light comes on, & service stabilitrac, & reduced power messages pop up. Car runs extremely rough and slow then I have to shut her down. Normally all I have to do is turn the car off, wait a few minutes, & then it will start and run normally but the engine light stays on. Doesn't happen when braking or turning, it's always when I give it a quick burst of gas. Like when you are going slow behind someone and give it gas to get around them...it will happen every time. From reading here I am seeing maybe issues with one of the throttle sensors or replacing the throttle body all together?

JerTM · 12-08-2015, 10:20 AM

Thats what I would suggest without the DTC to verify. If you can get the DTC pulled, let us know. I have replaced a lot of GM throttle bodies since 07.

Shinebrightx · 12-08-2015, 10:30 AM

Same thing happened to me not that long ago. water had gotten in the throttle body and caused corrosion. Cleaned it and it hasn't come back on since. Good luck!

Dealership claimed it was my fault because I removed the engine cover

Visago · 12-08-2015, 04:29 PM

Thanks for the input guys. I'll pull the TB this weekend and see if I can clean it out. If that doesn't work a trip to the dealer may be inevitable. Hoping not though..

JerTM · 12-08-2015, 05:22 PM

Cleaning your TB will do nothing for your issue. A dirty TB will only cause an idle issue. Possibly bad connection at the connector, but not a dirty TB. Head over to the parts store of your choice and get a DTC for me. FWIW, I am a GM tech

Fireman124 · 12-08-2015, 08:05 PM

As JerTm said you need the trouble code. I had a similar problem with a different car and it was the gas pedal sensor but with out a code you are just spinning your wheels.

Visago · 12-09-2015, 09:48 AM

Ok cool...I'll run it over and have them pull the codes and report back.

Shinebrightx · 12-09-2015, 09:57 AM

Mine didn't idle at all and it was just corrosion.. I had someone else hook it up and it was saying it was the throttle body and when it was cleaned the code was no longer there. Then that's when the dealership said it was due to the engine cover being taking off by me which caused a good amount of water to throw a code. Let us know what you find out!

JerTM · 12-09-2015, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fireman124

As JerTm said you need the trouble code. I had a similar problem with a different car and it was the gas pedal sensor but with out a code you are just spinning your wheels.

This. A TPS and APP will exhibit similar symptoms.

christianchevell · 12-09-2015, 07:18 PM

I would also check the connections to the MAP sensor that's on top of the intake: along with checking the codes its throwing as they go together hand in hand all the warning lights for just about anything......And if you have a catch can make sure its hoses are not loose or a vacuum able to occur from a loose can. And I would check the connections on top of the pedal , and check every thing I could... ,etc... something coming loose it sounds like or causing a stumble badly on acceleration. Good Luck.

Visago · 12-21-2015, 08:52 AM

Ok got the codes pulled...

P0050 HO2S Heater Control - Bank 2 Sensor 1. Assume that is the O2 sensor on the passenger side. I have been having random issues where the cooling fan will come on and the car wants to overheat.

P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 1-2 Correlation Error. Guess that would either be the throttle body or the pedal sensor. The ECM has detected that TPS 1 and TPS 2 disagree more than 4.5 percent for less than 1 second. Probable cause - Poor electrical connection or failed TPS. Wish I knew which TPS sensor it is so I don't have to replace the throttle body & the pedal sensor.

P0651 5 V Reference 2 Circuit. Have no idea on this one.

Thx guys!

JerTM · 12-21-2015, 09:26 AM

There is a possibility of a shorted wire with the last two dtcs. I would check the indicated locations for a short which I would suspect is causing all of your issues. If you do not find anything, it's going to be a throttle body that will need to be replaced. Also the first dtc doesn't control fan or cause the vehicle to overheat, it's simply an O2 heater that gets the O2 ready to read quicker for emissions, That will require replacement of the O2 sensor, Right side(passenger) post catalytic convertor.

Tsb doc #PIP4721

"Inspect the engine harness for a potential short to ground on the right inner fender, about 6" from the ECM.
Inspect Connector X102 for pinched wires that may cause them to short together. This is a 40 cavity connector that connects the engine harness to the forward lamp harness. It is located on the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the under hood fuse block (see item 5 below)."

12-08-2015, 08:53 AM	#1
Visago Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Dallas, TX! Posts: 290	Help! - Got the Codes Need to see if any of you have had this situation because it's driving me crazy. Did a pretty substantial search on here and online in general and am not finding a definitive answer or solution. I have a 2010 SS M6 and all of a sudden when I randomly punch the gas the service stabilitrac/reduced engine power comes on. Sucks because it always happens at inopportune moments and knocks the power down to about 5 miles an hour max. Can be unsafe at times depending on if you are at a place where you can get off the road or not and it is definitely bumming me out about driving the car. Once it happens I have to pull over, shut the car off, then wait several minutes and it will restart again. Has anyone had this issue? I read somewhere that GM did not have a good fix for this problem and their solution was to clean out the throttle body but then people had it happen again after the fact. I blew out my mass air flow & throttle position sensors with electrical contact cleaner, checked all my plug wires to make sure they were connected, and nothing else seems out of whack. Figured I'd post here before I end up taking it to the dealer. I like to try and work on my own car as much as possible first but it seems like I may not have another alternative but to take it in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Last edited by Visago; 12-21-2015 at 08:47 AM.

12-09-2015, 07:18 PM	#12
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	I would also check the connections to the MAP sensor that's on top of the intake: along with checking the codes its throwing as they go together hand in hand all the warning lights for just about anything......And if you have a catch can make sure its hoses are not loose or a vacuum able to occur from a loose can. And I would check the connections on top of the pedal , and check every thing I could... ,etc... something coming loose it sounds like or causing a stumble badly on acceleration. Good Luck. __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

12-08-2015, 09:32 AM	#2
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	Is there a CEL with the stabilitrak light? Aside from sudden hard acceleration, does the vehicle drive normal? Does the vehicle sometimes act strange when slow speed braking? There are a few things this could be.

12-08-2015, 10:20 AM	#4
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	Thats what I would suggest without the DTC to verify. If you can get the DTC pulled, let us know. I have replaced a lot of GM throttle bodies since 07.

12-08-2015, 10:30 AM	#5
Shinebrightx Drives: 2010 Camaro Z/LT RS Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Dfw, TX Posts: 336 View My Garage	Same thing happened to me not that long ago. water had gotten in the throttle body and caused corrosion. Cleaned it and it hasn't come back on since. Good luck! Dealership claimed it was my fault because I removed the engine cover

12-08-2015, 04:29 PM	#6
Visago Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Dallas, TX! Posts: 290	Thanks for the input guys. I'll pull the TB this weekend and see if I can clean it out. If that doesn't work a trip to the dealer may be inevitable. Hoping not though..

12-08-2015, 05:22 PM	#7
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	Cleaning your TB will do nothing for your issue. A dirty TB will only cause an idle issue. Possibly bad connection at the connector, but not a dirty TB. Head over to the parts store of your choice and get a DTC for me. FWIW, I am a GM tech

12-08-2015, 08:05 PM	#8
Fireman124 Drives: 45th convertible ss Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Illinois Posts: 108	As JerTm said you need the trouble code. I had a similar problem with a different car and it was the gas pedal sensor but with out a code you are just spinning your wheels.

12-09-2015, 09:48 AM	#9
Visago Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Dallas, TX! Posts: 290	Ok cool...I'll run it over and have them pull the codes and report back.

12-09-2015, 09:57 AM	#10
Shinebrightx Drives: 2010 Camaro Z/LT RS Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Dfw, TX Posts: 336 View My Garage	Mine didn't idle at all and it was just corrosion.. I had someone else hook it up and it was saying it was the throttle body and when it was cleaned the code was no longer there. Then that's when the dealership said it was due to the engine cover being taking off by me which caused a good amount of water to throw a code. Let us know what you find out!

12-21-2015, 08:52 AM	#13
Visago Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Dallas, TX! Posts: 290	Ok got the codes pulled... P0050 HO2S Heater Control - Bank 2 Sensor 1. Assume that is the O2 sensor on the passenger side. I have been having random issues where the cooling fan will come on and the car wants to overheat. P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 1-2 Correlation Error. Guess that would either be the throttle body or the pedal sensor. The ECM has detected that TPS 1 and TPS 2 disagree more than 4.5 percent for less than 1 second. Probable cause - Poor electrical connection or failed TPS. Wish I knew which TPS sensor it is so I don't have to replace the throttle body & the pedal sensor. P0651 5 V Reference 2 Circuit. Have no idea on this one. Thx guys!

12-21-2015, 09:26 AM	#14
JerTM Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Utah Posts: 1,940	There is a possibility of a shorted wire with the last two dtcs. I would check the indicated locations for a short which I would suspect is causing all of your issues. If you do not find anything, it's going to be a throttle body that will need to be replaced. Also the first dtc doesn't control fan or cause the vehicle to overheat, it's simply an O2 heater that gets the O2 ready to read quicker for emissions, That will require replacement of the O2 sensor, Right side(passenger) post catalytic convertor. Tsb doc #PIP4721 "Inspect the engine harness for a potential short to ground on the right inner fender, about 6" from the ECM. Inspect Connector X102 for pinched wires that may cause them to short together. This is a 40 cavity connector that connects the engine harness to the forward lamp harness. It is located on the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the under hood fuse block (see item 5 below)."