[hzycamaro]

Today I went to dealer for automatic transmission fluid level check for track. The service adviser told me no need to check before track day, just bring it back after first track day and they will check if everything is fine.

Then I asked him about oil change and brake fluid change. He told me if I do track day once a month or less frequent and also drive it on the street regularly, what he suggests is to do oil change after each track day but with 5W30 oil. My question is, what's the problem of driving on the street with 5w40 oil. He said 5w30 will be OK if I don't track it often.

As for brake fluid change, he suggests to flush the brake after each track day with DOT3 (or DOT4 if necessary) brake fluid. I remember on this forum people usually just bleed the brake after each track day and flush the brake every year. Is that true?

He got all the information from some GM website for dealers. I'm familiar with both the dealer and that service adviser. I trust him but I really have doubt about the suggestions he gave today. What do you think? Thanks!

BTW, I'm new to track driving and I'll be going for my first track day (NASA HPDE) at the end of this month.

[ag1leSS]

Driving on street is fine with the 5w40.

I don't know about the auto trans but we don't have to mess with the manual trans.

Recommended change diff fluid before first track day and every 10? Track hours afterwards.

The brake fluid will depend what you're using. I know lots of people who flush Everytime with ate blue. Every 2-3 track days with motul rbf600 and then once a season with Castro srf with just bleeds between each.

[Rustydaytons]

You went to the dealer so they can check trans fluid level?

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Rustydaytons

You went to the dealer so they can check trans fluid level?

For the A8 this is specifically spelled out in the track day prep to keep your warranty. OP did the right thing.

[Norm Peterson]

I think I recall hearing that there's a specific procedure for checking the level for track duty.

We were typing at the same time, Eric. Thanks for the confirmation that I wasn't imagining it.


Norm

[Eric SS]

If this is your very first track day you should be fine with the stock fluid. If you do continue to go however I would definitely change to DOT 4. I would however put Dexos 2 oil in before the track day JUST IN CASE something goes wrong with the motor. You don’t want to give GM any reason to try and deny a warrantee claim. I would also have the service advisor put in writing that it’s ok to run 5w-30 on the track if you do decide to keep it in the car for the track day so you have that as well. 5w-40 is 100% fine to run all the time.

Also, I recommend everyone put the track day backing plates and scoops on before anytrack days. Without them the brakes on this car get almost no air and overheat quickly. I just leave the track backing plates and scoops on all the time. In San Diego you’ll be fine doing this as well.

[hzycamaro]

Originally Posted by ag1leSS

Driving on street is fine with the 5w40.

I don't know about the auto trans but we don't have to mess with the manual trans.

Recommended change diff fluid before first track day and every 10? Track hours afterwards.

The brake fluid will depend what you're using. I know lots of people who flush Everytime with ate blue. Every 2-3 track days with motul rbf600 and then once a season with Castro srf with just bleeds between each.

Thanks. But how do you tell if brake fluid needs to be changed? Color? Brake fluid manufacturer's recommendation?

[hzycamaro]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

If this is your very first track day you should be fine with the stock fluid. If you do continue to go however I would definitely change to DOT 4. I would however put Dexos 2 oil in before the track day JUST IN CASE something goes wrong with the motor. You don’t want to give GM any reason to try and deny a warrantee claim. I would also have the service advisor put in writing that it’s ok to run 5w-30 on the track if you do decide to keep it in the car for the track day so you have that as well. 5w-40 is 100% fine to run all the time.

Also, I recommend everyone put the track day backing plates and scoops on before anytrack days. Without them the brakes on this car get almost no air and overheat quickly. I just leave the track backing plates and scoops on all the time. In San Diego you’ll be fine doing this as well.

Thank you!

I guess for the first time I'll use the stock fluids. I'll keep and eye on the fluid temperature and oil pressure. The manual says don't drive too hard for the first time. Plus, I won't be able to drive very fast for the first time anyway. Afterwards I'll switch to recommended 5W40 oil and DOT4 brake fluid

As for the track day backing plates and scoops, you may not remember but I asked you about this in another thread. Then I did install them. The caliper bolts are such a pain. I ended up going to dealer to let them check if everything is fine. I'll probably ask dealer to do it if I want to install the street ones. But for now I'll leave them on there all the time

Since you live in Arizona, do you go to track all year round? Will summer be too hot for the car?

In another thread you mentioned you have track insurance. I'm not sure if that's necessary for me because they won't even record the lap time for HPDE 1 and 2. I'm thinking to buy insurance when I start to care about lap time. I'm not sure that's the correct mind set. What do you think?

Wow, I have so many questions

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by hzycamaro

Thanks. But how do you tell if brake fluid needs to be changed? Color? Brake fluid manufacturer's recommendation?

If you bleed about half a liter total out of your calipers before each track event, you'll end up essentially doing a full flush about every 3 or 4 events and you'll never start an event off with dirty fluid in the calipers.

I couldn't tell you what that keeps the fluid wet boiling point above, only that with much smaller rotors and slightly slower speeds I've never run into any episodes involving boiling brake fluid with that approach.


The choice to purchase track day insurance really depends on what your comfort level is, maybe on your insurance company, and possibly your own local agent. That the laps are not being timed may not a strong enough argument that you aren't "racing" or otherwise "abusing".


Norm

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by hzycamaro

Since you live in Arizona, do you go to track all year round? Will summer be too hot for the car?

In another thread you mentioned you have track insurance. I'm not sure if that's necessary for me because they won't even record the lap time for HPDE 1 and 2. I'm thinking to buy insurance when I start to care about lap time. I'm not sure that's the correct mind set. What do you think?

Wow, I have so many questions

I track as much as I can (afford) down here and have not ran into any overheat issues even in 100+ degree weather. I personally don't by track day insurance which I know is playing with fire. It's a waste of money until you need it You'll *probably* be just fine your first session out because you won't be pushing 10/10 or even 7/10 but you just never know when you'll have a blow out or if the person if front of you will drop a bunch of fluid on the track. NASA is a great group (that's who I run with) and is probably one of the safest groups to run with. Have fun!

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

That the laps are not being timed may not a strong enough argument that you aren't "racing" or otherwise "abusing".


Norm

Be careful with this as a LOT of policies have changed their language in the last few years. For example mine (Farmers) now explicitly excludes anything while on a race track regardless of why you are on the track so there is no getting around it. It's pretty airtight. Some of the older ones do still leave open a little for interpretation but they are few and far between now and being phased out.

OP: I would definitely read your policy.

[hzycamaro]

Thanks Eric and Norm, now I have a plan about engine oil, brake fluid, track insurance etc.

[TrackClub]

As far as insurance, check for companies that insure race cars for a whole season. Your coverage begins as soon as you enter a track. The cost is about the same as a regular insurance. If you decide to track often and decide you wish to be covered, this is by far a cheaper way to go vs paying per day. Also, if you wish for some tips how to prep for a track event, check out Trillium BMW website at www.soBMW.ca then Schools tab top left for good tips. Some are specific to this club, but most are generic. Cheers!

[therza]

Originally Posted by hzycamaro

Thank you!

I guess for the first time I'll use the stock fluids. I'll keep and eye on the fluid temperature and oil pressure. The manual says don't drive too hard for the first time. Plus, I won't be able to drive very fast for the first time anyway. Afterwards I'll switch to recommended 5W40 oil and DOT4 brake fluid

As for the track day backing plates and scoops, you may not remember but I asked you about this in another thread. Then I did install them. The caliper bolts are such a pain. I ended up going to dealer to let them check if everything is fine. I'll probably ask dealer to do it if I want to install the street ones. But for now I'll leave them on there all the time

Since you live in Arizona, do you go to track all year round? Will summer be too hot for the car?


In another thread you mentioned you have track insurance. I'm not sure if that's necessary for me because they won't even record the lap time for HPDE 1 and 2. I'm thinking to buy insurance when I start to care about lap time. I'm not sure that's the correct mind set. What do you think?

Wow, I have so many questions

I know you said you were just going to leave the backing plate and track air deflectors on full time (even though the installation instructions say not to). Getting the caliper bolts off and then properly torqued back on is a PITA. I found an easy way to do it. I bought a small impact gun that fits in the wheel well if you turn the wheel all the way in. And it has different settings so you can get the torque close enough without having to break out a torque wrench.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2861-22

I can change my car over to track duty in about an hour. And back in the same amount of time. This tool makes it a breeze. I use setting number 3 on the tool and give the caliper bolts three trigger bursts after contact. that is about 150 ft lbs.