Tick Remote Clutch Bleeder Install

[Ragnar]

Hey h018871,
Thank you for sharing your experience, the pictures and the notes that you made are very appreciated!

[KaBoom1701]

Interesting....

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by h018871

I thought that the 1st picture would enable me to tighten the remote bleeder
But the 2nd setup worked out better (7/16in crow’s foot)

Thank You h018871 for your great thread. I just completed my Tick install without removing the trans

I do have a couple small improvements, I also used a 7/16" crow's foot as you suggested, but I attached a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter to it then used a 1/4" drive 3" extension. I then taped the crows foot, the adapter and the extension all together so it would all stay together, minimizing anything falling into the bellhousing. It was easier to maneuver into the hole because of less weight. And there was enough room with the 1/4" drive setup that I could use my ratchet, instead of the breaker bar.



I also taped a mirror above the area I was working so I could see where the Tick needed to go and also see the fitting as I tightened. You can see the mirror and the image of inside the bellhousing in this pic:




Now when I first installed the Tick into the hole and attempted to hit the threads I blocked my mirror, but luck was with me and I hit the threads right off the bat. I could not believe I got that lucky and I gave the Tick a twist and it started right into the threads

Thank You h018871!

[cdb95z28]

One other thing.....PATIENCE, PATIENCE!!!! Keep your and take your time!!! You DO NOT WANT TO:

-Crossthread the Tick into the slave. Remember the slave housing is aluminum
-Drop your tools or OE bleeder into the bellhousing. Keep you hands clean, keep any grease or brake fluid of your fingers, because you need all the grip you can get to hold onto the OE bleeder and your tools. And no gloves, when working with small things, keep the gloves off

Do this

not this

[ADR01T]

Great thread, I installed mine today w/ my CTS-V front brake upgrade. I would not have had the proper tools (crows foot) to install the bleeder w/o this thread. I taped my 'setup' together like cdb did (I used painter's tape) and I tied a sliding knot in a piece of thread and attached it to the end of the OEM bleeder after I broke it loose, just in case it slipped out of my hands so that I could fish it back out of the transmission.

I like the mirror trick, I used my iPhone to take pictures while I held the bleeder in place. there is PLENTY of room up there to see and the camera on an iPhone 5 just happens to be in the top left corner I attached 2 of the pictures to give an idea of what you're dealing with. These were taken with 1 hand holding the iPhone and other holding the bleeder line steady while the car was on the lift. It took me a little over 15 minutes to get it started.

Patience is right. (and a steady hand) Thanks again OP for taking the time to write this up.

[GVA 45TH 2SS]

Had mine installed by a shop while having other mods done. The fresh fluid makes the car shift like butter again. They ran the bleeder up under the hood.

[cdb95z28]

ADR01T, great idea with the tether on the bleeder, and very good, clear pics of the slave for everyone.

[badbowtie408]

Great pics, thanks for posting these. I will be adding the Ideal Garage slave cylinder and separating the fluid reservoirs this weekend, since I am already working on on the fluid side of things, I will go ahead and add this remote bleeder. I was going to wait until I replaced the clutch, but after seeing these pics, I think patience and a six pack will get it done.

[h018871]

Crud
Double post...........

[h018871]

The iPhone pics are great. Your bellhousing is quite a bit cleaner than mine

The tape and string are good practices. Glad this has been working out for folks

[mySSt]

After manually bleeding my '11 SS M6 clutch system (all the way thru the slave cylinder), this thread has made me decide to be as brave as the OP and get a Tick remote bleeder. Thanks OP for your posts!

A question for those who have bled the slave cylinder with the stock bleeder on the upper side of the bell housing - Did you find any brake fluid dripping out of the bottom of your bell housing (4 ports on the passenger side) after bleeding the system? As others have posted, the bleeder originally was just over hand tight and all I loosened the bleeder was about 45 degrees CCW after each time we depressed the clutch pedal. Looks like the brake fluid leaked a bit from the threaded end each time I loosened the bleeder? I had a tight fit with a drain hose on the bleed valve and the bleeder shaft wasn't wet after I removed the hose and 8mm wrench, so I don't think that was the source of the leaking fluid. I was able to 'mop up' the small amount of fluid in the bottom of the bell housing thru the 4 small ports. Anybody else have this happen?

[nighttowl]

I just did this install this morning on my ZL1.

I used a Milwaukee bore scope from home depot (I had it, but they are $99) to do it instead of using mirrors.

getting the line on is easy, put the fitting in the hole, and spin the hose until it tightens up.
tightening the fitting in the slave cylinder was very tedious, it took me about a half hour to get the fitting tight.

whole job took less than 2 hours, including changing the upper clutch line and bleeding it out; but note I have a 2 post car lift which surely saved some time.

[nighttowl]

Originally Posted by mySSt

After manually bleeding my '11 SS M6 clutch system (all the way thru the slave cylinder), this thread has made me decide to be as brave as the OP and get a Tick remote bleeder. Thanks OP for your posts!

A question for those who have bled the slave cylinder with the stock bleeder on the upper side of the bell housing - Did you find any brake fluid dripping out of the bottom of your bell housing (4 ports on the passenger side) after bleeding the system? As others have posted, the bleeder originally was just over hand tight and all I loosened the bleeder was about 45 degrees CCW after each time we depressed the clutch pedal. Looks like the brake fluid leaked a bit from the threaded end each time I loosened the bleeder? I had a tight fit with a drain hose on the bleed valve and the bleeder shaft wasn't wet after I removed the hose and 8mm wrench, so I don't think that was the source of the leaking fluid. I was able to 'mop up' the small amount of fluid in the bottom of the bell housing thru the 4 small ports. Anybody else have this happen?

I've bled the system using the stock bleeder, and it will leak out of the threads when the screw is broken loose.

[clarkkent]

Just did this yesterday, the tool I found the most valuable was a remote inspection camera. Made things tons easier, as I could see inside the bellhousing.

Here's a picture from the inspection camera, and the tool I made based on the pics here. Thanks for the ideas!