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Old 04-09-2014, 10:39 PM   #225
kyle@ridetech.com
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My 5th View Post
FYI. The temperature today was in the upper 60's, about 20+ degrees warmer than the last few days. There is less noise when it's warmer. I don't know what that means, but by summer there may not be any noise! As much as noises drive me crazy the performance and feel of the car makes me forget the noise. I also checked my battery and it was a little loose! Maybe that's where the noise was. The body shop had the hold down bolts as tight as they would go, but the battery still moved a little, so I put an old rubber computer mouse pad that was about 1/8" thick on top of the battery under the clamp and now the battery is snug.
Did this solve your noise issue? I'm kinda perplexed by this as I really don't hear much coming from the rear of our shop car.
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Old 04-10-2014, 06:32 AM   #226
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My5th,
In an earlier post you stated, "In addition to the Ridetechs I had Jordan replace the Pedders bushing inserts with the Prothane solid urethane bushings"

Which bushings did you replace?

I'm just trying to narrow in on what the major cause of noise is in the car. Like Kyle said, we don't get much noise from our 2010 shop car. However, everything is OE except the coil overs and FE4 sway bars.

My guess is "death by a thousand cuts". . .stiffer bushings, larger sway bars, solid mounted coil overs, loose battery. . .these all add up.
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Old 04-10-2014, 08:35 PM   #227
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[QUOTE=marolf101x;7569098]My5th,
In an earlier post you stated, "In addition to the Ridetechs I had Jordan replace the Pedders bushing inserts with the Prothane solid urethane bushings"

Which bushings did you replace?

I'm just trying to narrow in on what the major cause of noise is in the car. Like Kyle said, we don't get much noise from our 2010 shop car. However, everything is OE except the coil overs and FE4 sway bars.

My guess is "death by a thousand cuts". . .stiffer bushings, larger sway bars, solid mounted coil overs, loose battery. . .these all add up.[/
QUOTE]

I think they are the rear craddle urathane incerts, I have the same ones, Sounds like then he went to solid urathene ones. Not supposed to affect ride but you never know. I know the incerts do not make noise, dont know about the solid ones though
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:02 AM   #228
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If the battery was contributing to the noise it wasn't very much because the noise is still there, but slightly less. It was even warmer today and the noise was less still, but still there. I've noticed it's more pronounced when going slow, less than 5 mph. That could be because road noise is less at low speed, but once i get over 30 mph it seems much quieter--even over pretty rough surfaces.

I had the cradle inserts replaced with solid urethane, and the upper control arm bushing too. I left the Pedders differential bushings in, but they are the softer of the two they offered--these have holes all around. I've always had the clunk in the rear, but that is driveline related not suspension. The noise is a minor irritant, but it certainly doesn't affect the performance. The car feels more planted and surefooted than before.
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:57 PM   #229
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I too am going from the pedders xas in the rear to the ride tech and was wondering if my forgelines will fit in the back with out any clearance issues ? Also can anyone tell me what the starting preload setting is on the rear ! I have the pedders setup on now and would like a easy installation SWAP . I really am not the tech savy . Just give me a good measurement of how much to tighten the coil for the starting 1.5 drop and enough preload . Also what are y'all setting the clicks at on the rear for street compared to drag compared to road cross . Some thing like one inch from 0 preload 1/2 inch from 0 preload or 2 inch from 0 preload lol . Anyone that has done this should have a easy starting instructions ? And the thanks for your time and efforts as I don't have the time or place to be doing a bunch of up and down trying to find the best starting street setting ride
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[/SIGPIC]600 hp lingenfelter TVS 2300 package pedders springs adjustable struts sways all bushings brake hose kit cold air fuel pump boost twindisc clutch 1400hp axles 3.70 gear borla cat back badging coil covers floor mats lpe pedals 20"forgelines nitto,s, idealg master, clutch res,,lethal racing cam package with oil pump pushrods timing chain ,meth kit ,zl1 pump ,kooks 1 7/8 high flow Kats , ridetech rear coilovers ,air fuel gauge, fuel pressure gauge , shift light ,way cool awsome set up love it!
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:17 PM   #230
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I cannot answer all your questions, but can say that there will be no fitment issues with you Forgelines. The design of the Ridetech coilovers replaces the wide diameter factory coil with a 60mm ID 2.5" ID coil. I am sure Britt will reply to your ride height and damper setting questions.

Last edited by JusticePete; 07-01-2014 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:15 AM   #231
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I'm on vacation and dont have the preload specs in front of me. However it doesn't really matter as the preload amount depends on desired ride height and vehicle weight.
So to do this correctly you need to set the car on the ground, bounce it, then check ride height. If you need to move it lift the car, use the spanner wrench to adjust up or down. When you are satisfied with the height (and the shock is not topped out or bottomed out) you need to lock down the adjuster.

As for shock settings it personal preference. I like to start about 20-22 out and go for a drive. If I need to adjust I make a big change, 10 clicks maybe. Then drive again.
By making big adjustments you can really feel the change.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:14 PM   #232
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Well thanks for y'alls answers but still no easy preload setting on a 5gen Camaro wow I would have thought all the camaros weights were close enough for a general setting and people with these would have setting or setup they could help out with . I'm no suspension guy and just would like a basic start so I can set them bring them in to get swapped out already setup then if need be play with the settings at home later
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:16 PM   #233
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Also there's no suspension guys or shops around me that have a clue
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[/SIGPIC]600 hp lingenfelter TVS 2300 package pedders springs adjustable struts sways all bushings brake hose kit cold air fuel pump boost twindisc clutch 1400hp axles 3.70 gear borla cat back badging coil covers floor mats lpe pedals 20"forgelines nitto,s, idealg master, clutch res,,lethal racing cam package with oil pump pushrods timing chain ,meth kit ,zl1 pump ,kooks 1 7/8 high flow Kats , ridetech rear coilovers ,air fuel gauge, fuel pressure gauge , shift light ,way cool awsome set up love it!
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:43 PM   #234
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Guess I will try to set it up and hope for the best sure wish pedders didn't blow out
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:09 PM   #235
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I'll be ordering a set of these soon after talking to Tyler yesterday. As far as setup goes octane it's as simple as taking measurements around the car and adjusting up or down until you get it dialed in. Your sig shows you have a blower and several other mods that will affect they weight of your car against a common Camaro. Regardless of having a common starting point, you're still going to have to take the same steps to get the ride height dialed in to your specific car. More time will come from trying to get your application dialed in than it will for you to bolt the parts on.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:01 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marolf101x View Post
...I will start answering questions above with shock dyno graphs. I have attached both the front (HQ strut) and the rear (HQ coil over).
Britt, thanks for taking the time to share the information, but I am left a bit confused by your post.
Regarding post #44 of this thread:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=44
You wrote that will attach the front (HQ strut) and the rear (HQ coil over) dyno graphs,
but you attached (HQ strut_dyno) and (HQ Front).

Are these the charts you intended to post?
Which is which?

Thanks again.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:38 PM   #237
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Yes, those are the graphs I intended to post.
I apologize I should have explained it a little better.
The "strut" one is for the front strut on the Camaro.
The "front" one is the rear shock (due to the independent rear suspension on the Camaro and the angle of the shock, it requires what we call a "front" valve code)
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:43 PM   #238
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Thumbs up

thanks, bud. appreciate your coming back around.


alright, now i'm being a bit incessant, but, what's the deal with the color key on the (HQ Strut) graph?
are the click from full firm or full soft?
the colors are not lining up either.
sorry man, but i'm really trying to reason with what i'm feeling here.
got the natural frequency and critical damping maths going on; bare with me.

Last edited by FunkedOut; 02-22-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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