[unavailablezl1]

Just for jollies FYI....

[seanblurr]

Without looking at the manual, I had to add close to 11 to get the proper amount via the dipstick. FYI, using 15w-50 exclusively. Car is 90% track only.

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by DANACO

This is bad advise regarding “or even 11” you put the recommended amount in, run it, wait 15-20 minutes, check the level, period. Over filling can damage an engine, the specified amount is was not a guess by the engineers, it’s specific for many reasons.

Sure overfilling can damage an engine, but being over by 10% is not harmful. Show me one person who has blown their engine from running 11 quarts. I know of at least two cars that have blown their engine from oil starvation on the track with 10 quarts (and sticky tires).

Do I recommend purposely filling with 11 quarts? No, but my point is that it isn't going to matter if you do. Absolute precision isn't necessary. I don't know exactly what the threshold for a true overfill condition is, but I guarantee it's a lot higher than 11 quarts.

Personally, I use 10 quarts unless I'm on the track. In that case, I throw in a little extra because oil starvation in hard corners can and does happen on these wet sump systems. I track my car frequently, so at 6,000 miles I'm well over 30 oil changes. When I change the oil, I allow all of the oil to drain then add 10 quarts of Mobil 1 (using a portion to prefill the oil filter). There's no need to measure, start the engine, remeasure, etc.. It's all unnecessary.

[LT4Greg]

I knew I read the owners manual right. There it is in print. Looks like the dealership filled the Ops ZL1 with the Liter measurement. You are right Travis. My view on the whole matter is, it isn’t rocket science!!

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by travislambert

Sure overfilling can damage an engine, but being over by 10% is not harmful. Show me one person who has blown their engine from running 11 quarts. I know of at least two cars that have blown their engine from oil starvation on the track with 10 quarts (and sticky tires).

Please tell me more about these blown LT4 motor Camaros. What tracks did this happen on, specific turns. What tires, Hoosiers or Pirelli DH?

Most importantly, how did Chevy respond with warranty support? Any issues with use of non-OEM tires?

Thanks!

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Please tell me more about these blown LT4 motor Camaros. What tracks did this happen on, specific turns. What tires, Hoosiers or Pirelli DH?

Most importantly, how did Chevy respond with warranty support? Any issues with use of non-OEM tires?

Thanks!

I've only heard of this when non-OEM tires were used, so to my knowledge Chevy wasn't involved. I'm not aware of any problems with stock tires as I don't think there's enough grip to create a problem as long as you stay at 10 quarts.

I don't want to derail the thread, but here's two blown LT1s (same oil system as LT4) due to low oil pressure (references in posts 9 & 10). Talk to these guys for the details.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534469

[Emoto]

I don't know how much wiggle room for overfilling there is on these engines, but "too much" oil can cause high crankcase pressures which can possibly affect seals, and oil foaming, which can affect a pump's ability to circulate enough oil. I base this statement not on LT* engine knowledge but on general engine knowledge.

Any idea what it is about the design that is causing starvation in corners, assuming that is real

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by Emoto

I don't know how much wiggle room for overfilling there is on these engines, but "too much" oil can cause high crankcase pressures which can possibly affect seals, and oil foaming, which can affect a pump's ability to circulate enough oil. I base this statement not on LT* engine knowledge but on general engine knowledge.

Any idea what it is about the design that is causing starvation in corners, assuming that is real

It's a limitation of the wet sump system. That's one reason why higher-end cars have dry sump systems.

It's not a big problem because almost nobody drives hard enough to expose the problem. It's "real" though. Al even touches on it in his response here.

For the ZL1 1LE, 15W-50 is the required track oil due to the increased lateral acceleration capability of the vehicle. It has enough of a grip capacity increase above all the other models that the added protection from 15W-50 is needed. The thicker 50 weight viscosity helps with oil pan drawdown when the oil gets hot on the track and reduces risk of pressure dropouts. For the ZL1, 15w-50 will add protection but is not required, as the 0w-40 was tested and provides adequate protection in a track environment.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...php?p=10273387

When you upgrade to slicks, the 15W-50 might not be enough to save you. That's why a little extra oil is needed.

[Emoto]

Good info. Thanks!

[Vulcan1]

Having many years experience with wet sump and dry sump systems in both drag and circle track racing here are a few points that are relevant to any generation engine. How much is to much?? When the crankshaft throws or Rods start slapping like a belly flop in the pool. On my Dyno I could measure solid HP gains by getting the oil away from the crankshaft by the use of windage trays, oil pump baffles and side sump pans. Think about it this way, oil is picked up and “ropes” around the rotating assembly. This is considerable drag, no different then pulling the prop of your boat motor out of the water and watching the tach spike up, no drag. I can reduce the oil level alone on the dyno just to the point that the oil level stabilizes above the pick up and see a solid 20-25 HP gain.
Now switch a wet sump engine over to a good dry sump system and I’m seeing 45-50 HP alone. Some of the big blocks with large strokes in the 598-632 CI displacements really stand out. Bottom line is a good balance between oil control from the rotating assembly and not uncovering the pickup tube. Oil pump cavitation from foam or no oil will destroy a pump in no time. PCV system in light tension ring packages is vastly important. As long as oil temperatures are controlled and the pickup is not uncovered no issues, street or track.

[SFV1LE]

I've heard firsthand from owners about 4 failures, 2 with a dry sump C6 corvette and 2 with an LS7 Z28 (also dry sump). The same Corvette and Z28 Camaro each failed twice. The common culprit in this was banked left turn 1-2 at Auto Club Speedway Roval, with cars traveling 130-150 MPH.

So this can happen to dry sump cars also, but I've only seen it happen with Chevy dry sump. I doubt a GT3 or 458/488 would have this problem.

[Pollock]

The manual says to add an extra quart for track days and to remove that when your track day is over. I keep 11 quarts in mine. No problems.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by Pollock

The manual says to add an extra quart for track days and to remove that when your track day is over. I keep 11 quarts in mine. No problems.

I believe that is only for the LT1 and not the LT4, I read it somewhere too but cant find it in the 2018 Camaro track prep guide or performance supplement.

Adding 1/2 quart wont hurt, but I'd prefer not to go 1 full qt over.

[swizlstik]

10 every time