[Stocktastic]

Hopefully this stuff shows up at Advance or the like soon.

[unavailablezl1]

Originally Posted by Litespeed1000

Hit 1500 miles and finished changing rear diff and engine oil. My local dealership now carries Mobil 1 ESP, 0w40, Dexos 2.

Oil looked clean in both, far less metal partiicals than the 500 oil change.

What is the cost per qt?

[ZL14ME]

Originally Posted by unavailablezl1

What is the cost per qt?

$11.32/qt at my local dealer. Stupid expensive.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by Krowser

Interesting...

My friends and I do a lot of spirited driving here in Florida where the humidity and heat is quite real. I know the atmosphere in Europe is not the same as Florida; however, I can imagine that South Florida's climate is more punishing for an oil than in Europe. Additionally, I don't think Europe uses 10% ethanol in their fuels.

I know more zinc content offers better metal to metal lubrication and protection; however, it is a bitch for catalytic converters. Perhaps for the catless Camaros, the euro spec would be better with the higher zinc content.

GM knows there's a problem with DI (deposits and consumption) that's why the big emphasis on LOW ASH, if you look at all the ingredients for wear items they have a very high TBN number like 12.0 or higher, Euro oils, Mobile 1s best oil, Amsoil ect... this new ESP oil is emissions safe Why? ( u think about it) the additives for wear are the main ingredients that build up deposits they have taken some metal %s outs.. you can see the Analysis at mobile 1, to confirm. Also down a lot is the TBN it goes hand in hand with additives this ESP is 8.5 which is really low for a good synthetic anti wear oil that can go the distance on long intervals.

Examples of low ash percentage oils

.5 to .8 Mobile 1/ ESP, diesels stuff lie SAPS
less than 1.0% is medium ASH
greater than 1.0% is high ASH

The best protection would be a good catch can system and the highest TBN number around.. GO to the DEXOS page I saw no listing for AMSOIL which people swear by, Red line, and other well know proven oils. I did see Royal Purple which a lot won't use anymore.. So they either won't pay to be on the DEXOS 2 list or it won't pass because not being low ash.

as far as the weight change it's a happy medium between street and race for protection and will cut down on oil consumption.. And if oil is being consumed the low ash will not hurt the emissions system as much!

Nothing new I sit through the boring diesel classes with the manufactures to be certified ever year with all the new tier 4 emissions compliant crap stuff low ash oils nothing new so its easier to clean with the onboard regen systems!

[Biscuit.fr]

What is the dexos II specific?
(Except for our warranty....)
0w40 Europ doesn’t look bad?

[waterman]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

GM knows there's a problem with DI (deposits and consumption) that's why the big emphasis on LOW ASH, if you look at all the ingredients for wear items they have a very high TBN number like 12.0 or higher, Euro oils, Mobile 1s best oil, Amsoil ect... this new ESP oil is emissions safe Why? ( u think about it) the additives for wear are the main ingredients that build up deposits they have taken some metal %s outs.. you can see the Analysis at mobile 1, to confirm. Also down a lot is the TBN it goes hand in hand with additives this ESP is 8.5 which is really low for a good synthetic anti wear oil that can go the distance on long intervals.

Examples of low ash percentage oils

.5 to .8 Mobile 1/ ESP, diesels stuff lie SAPS
less than 1.0% is medium ASH
greater than 1.0% is high ASH

The best protection would be a good catch can system and the highest TBN number around.. GO to the DEXOS page I saw no listing for AMSOIL which people swear by, Red line, and other well know proven oils. I did see Royal Purple which a lot won't use anymore.. So they either won't pay to be on the DEXOS 2 list or it won't pass because not being low ash.

as far as the weight change it's a happy medium between street and race for protection and will cut down on oil consumption.. And if oil is being consumed the low ash will not hurt the emissions system as much!

Nothing new I sit through the boring diesel classes with the manufactures to be certified ever year with all the new tier 4 emissions compliant crap stuff low ash oils nothing new so its easier to clean with the onboard regen systems!

I feel you brother.

I'm a tier level Cat certified tech myself. As you know, DI will take a massive toll on intake valves and guides, varnish intercoolers and aftercoolers and greatly reduce performance and an engines ability to eliminate heat. Then inevitably, the coking of the intake valves and their guides will float a valve and bounce it around the combustion chamber.

After seeing it first hand over the last 25+ years, I/we understand that especially in a forced induction (turbo and blower) application, the great importance of reduced oil volatility in controlling the effects of DI. As well as the the positive effect that Walker Airsep (diesel catch can) had in DDI applications cleaning up the red headed stepchild of direct injection. I won't even mention the effect that a direct blow by vent (prior to the Walker) had in fouling up an engine room.

IMHO, those of you who are not running a catch can with GDI/PCV are taking a HUGE risk of reducing performance levels and eventually a significant failure. That is without costly media blasting of your I valves and potentially valve guide replacement every 40-50K miles.

You are probably thinking that if it was that important than GM would have made it OEM. That is what Cat and Detroit and Cummins thought as well years ago. Until their warranty costs skyrocketed and MARPOL regs/EPA emissions regs kicked in. Then they had no choice.

Fair discloser, GM did a great job on the clean side of the LT4.

Draining a catch can takes a couple of minutes. However the bean counters and lawyers at corporate understand that if you forget to drain the CC, your LT4 is in a world of sh*t, and then they are on the hook. I believe that they understand that it's not worth the cost and risk to extend motor longevity at the risk of someone who doesn't understand the importance of changing their oil, let alone blowing a motor because they forgot to drain their CC and sucked all of that nasty byproduct into their intake. They understand that coking and varnishing will not kick in a big way until well after 3/36,000 has expired.

FI with GDI? Do yourself a favor and get a CC (that doesn't defeat the PCV) and run a high quality low volatility (low ash as EDFHOBBIES pointed out) full synthetic. It will make your cats happy too. Dexos 2 oils are from what I understand, well engineered, low volatility products.

[Heartbreaker]

I went for the 500 mile oil change and the dealer looked at me like I was crazy when I asked for the new oil. He said that it was for 2019 Corvettes. He opened my hood and pointed to the oil filler cap (I ordered a new cap today).
I tried to explain but the service tech was not having any of it. I went to the parts department and they said that they did not have any in stock. Is there a TSB # on this change?

[Bolt-onC6]

Originally Posted by ZL14ME

$11.32/qt at my local dealer. Stupid expensive.

Here's the liter version for much less.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-oil-19353135

[Stephen12ZL1]

gmparts overstock has the "new" 0w40 for 7.47 per qt. 19370233 part#. 0w40 Cap is part# 12686472 $4.40.

[Stephen12ZL1]

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...date-1389.html

[Vtor_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...date-1389.html

What stupid website.. can't copy text.. dumb.

[Stephen12ZL1]

use a screenshot...

[Vtor_ZL1]

Nothing F12 can't fix.. something leftover from another era.. omg dont copy my text.. yeah, i'll just snip it.. or F12 and rip it off console inspector.

[SteveV]

Originally Posted by waterman

I feel you brother.

I'm a tier level Cat certified tech myself. As you know, DI will take a massive toll on intake valves and guides, varnish intercoolers and aftercoolers and greatly reduce performance and an engines ability to eliminate heat. Then inevitably, the coking of the intake valves and their guides will float a valve and bounce it around the combustion chamber.

After seeing it first hand over the last 25+ years, I/we understand that especially in a forced induction (turbo and blower) application, the great importance of reduced oil volatility in controlling the effects of DI. As well as the the positive effect that Walker Airsep (diesel catch can) had in DDI applications cleaning up the red headed stepchild of direct injection. I won't even mention the effect that a direct blow by vent (prior to the Walker) had in fouling up an engine room.

IMHO, those of you who are not running a catch can with GDI/PCV are taking a HUGE risk of reducing performance levels and eventually a significant failure. That is without costly media blasting of your I valves and potentially valve guide replacement every 40-50K miles.

You are probably thinking that if it was that important than GM would have made it OEM. That is what Cat and Detroit and Cummins thought as well years ago. Until their warranty costs skyrocketed and MARPOL regs/EPA emissions regs kicked in. Then they had no choice.

Fair discloser, GM did a great job on the clean side of the LT4.

Draining a catch can takes a couple of minutes. However the bean counters and lawyers at corporate understand that if you forget to drain the CC, your LT4 is in a world of sh*t, and then they are on the hook. I believe that they understand that it's not worth the cost and risk to extend motor longevity at the risk of someone who doesn't understand the importance of changing their oil, let alone blowing a motor because they forgot to drain their CC and sucked all of that nasty byproduct into their intake. They understand that coking and varnishing will not kick in a big way until well after 3/36,000 has expired.

FI with GDI? Do yourself a favor and get a CC (that doesn't defeat the PCV) and run a high quality low volatility (low ash as EDFHOBBIES pointed out) full synthetic. It will make your cats happy too. Dexos 2 oils are from what I understand, well engineered, low volatility products.

While there is a lot of good information in this post, I feel I must point out the very long thread on this site where GM voided someone's warranty when their oil pump died, because he had a catch can on his car. His oil pump did NOT die because of the catch can... But GM refused to honor his warranty because he had a catch can and his VIN is now black listed by GM as having an invalid warranty now.

As I plan to keep my ZL1 for a very long time, I will be installing a catch can... But only AFTER my warranty has expired.

I don't want to give the jackholes at the stealership ANY reason to void my warranty.