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Old 07-22-2015, 07:14 PM   #1
Fiftydriver

 
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Think I broke something in my rear end....

Coming home tonight, as I came out of one of the smaller towns on my way home, decided to play a bit. As I left town, was going around 35 mph, floored it, my trans down shifted once and then w second time, car pulled hard as it always does but within a couple seconds, there was a loud "POP" and the car pulled hard to the right.

I instantly let off the throttle and caught my breath as the car cruised at around 50 mph. Engine was running smooth as always, tranny felt smooth, no odd sounds. No smoke or parts trailing behind, no vibration at all. Took a deep breath after realizing it was not a MAJOR problem.

Then started to test things as I drove at around 60 mph. Steering was normal, again no vibration of any kind.....

Then I got on the throttle a bit and the car pulled very hard to the right again. Let off the throttle and it went back to its normal smooth driving. Got on the throttle again, and again, car pulled hard to the right.

The car Is pulling from the rear end, not the front end. Did not push things got home and did a quick look under the rear end. Can not see anything obviously broken.

I have full custom built JRE diff with billet caps, posi upgrade and 3.91 gears, upgraded diff bushings, HSS one piece driveshaft, DSS "street" 1000 hp axles. Pfadt trailing arms and bushings, pfadt sway bars and pfadt lowering springs.

Again, I can not see anything obviously wrong but something certainly is broken. Getting on the throttle at all above normal driving pulls the rear end of the car and thus the entire car to right. The more you get on the throttle, the harder it pulls to the right.

No vibration or noise.

Any ideas where to look. First thought was a broken trailing arm or tie rod but those APPEAR to be fine. Need to look closer though.

Could something have broken in the diff that would cause this? I would think it would make noise at times or vibration is an internal gear let loose.

Anyway, your thoughts are more then appreciated!!

Thanks
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:36 PM   #2
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If it's pulling right I would look at axle shafts, kind of the same theory when a twin engine plane looses one engine it will to the opposite side of the running, right engine running left engine out ACFT will pull left so the pilot would have to have a lot of right pedal input to trim the ACFT to fly straight.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:04 PM   #3
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My money is on your sway bar end links. You likely just lost the bolt and the link pulled out.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ventmaster View Post
My money is on your sway bar end links. You likely just lost the bolt and the link pulled out.
That's what I was thinking but they appear to be fine......
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:20 PM   #5
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Update, nothing is obviously broken as far as structurally. Took the car for a drive and it's pretty obvious this is an issue with either the rear right caliper sensor or abs sensor.

Something caused the problem and something did pop. Ted Jannetty has helped put a lot. We are thinking I split a bushing on the toe link or trailing arm so going to get them off and check them out.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:00 PM   #6
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I've had camber eccentrics strip and the nut/jam loosen. This threw off the alignment and made the rear unstable. Replaced a couple eccentrics over the past 4 years with the numerous alignments. Guessing Pedders nut/jam nut may have been over-tightened during alignments and eventually get stretched/stripped. Hasn't occurred with OE eccentrics and never heard a pop the times I've noticed the problems.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:50 PM   #7
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The car pretty much wouldn't move if a axle popped. My money is on suspension as well. Maybe check the toe links and such too, give them a good tug see if anything feels loose.

I'm not sure I could see a sway bar causing that, if one end link broke then the bar pretty much just wouldn't do anything I don't think.
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #8
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Turns out, the outer CV joint on the DSS 1000 hp stage 4 axle came apart on the right side.....

DSS seems to want to help out and think that i may need a custom made axle length....

Sucks but figuring the problem out!
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:48 PM   #9
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I got it right!!!!!
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olblue75 View Post
I got it right!!!!!
You are the man Blue!
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Old 10-11-2015, 11:37 PM   #11
Fiftydriver

 
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The actual axle shafts seem to be fine, the cv joint is gone. Looks like the outer cage of the cv joint cracked but would hold up to around 1/4 throttle, above that and th torque would force the crack to widen and it would slip.

DSS thinks i need a custom length right axle so will be getting that measurement to them monday and hopefully a new replacement axle on the way.
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2010 SSRS, RJTC, L99, Maggie 2300 SC, 3.4" pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Dynatech Supermaxx LT headers, Dynatech High Flow cats, Corsa Cat back exhaust, Dual Elite Engineering catch can, MSD wires and Jannetty custom tune, JRE custom diff w/ posi mod, 3.91 LPE gears, Pfaht trailing arms, Pfaht trailing arm and Diff bushings, drop springs and sport sway bars front and back, Fesler dual guage pillar pod w/ AM Cobalt Boost and A/F guages.

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Old 10-13-2015, 03:53 PM   #12
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You must be putting down 1,001 HP.
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:19 AM   #13
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Hmmmm weird! I have had 3 different sets of DSS axels,stock diff, Hammer Head and 9". I'm a bit rough on diffs with the M6. Havn't seen an axel length issue before, but I'm sure Frank will figure it out for you.



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