03-19-2014, 06:05 PM | #43 |
Drives: 2014 Ford Focus ST Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 939
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Every detailing job is different from one another, some need to be wet sand, some don't. Some need compounding with wool or foam pads or some need a paint job because the paint can't be save.
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03-20-2014, 06:54 AM | #44 | |
Drives: 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orlando/Stuart, FL
Posts: 1,161
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03-20-2014, 07:02 AM | #45 | ||||
Drives: 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orlando/Stuart, FL
Posts: 1,161
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In the interest of education and nothing more... I used to travel to body shop's and train their personal as a side business when I detailed... www.belladetailing.com.
You would be amazed at how low the quality of work is from most body shops, even those with a stellar reputation. It is what it is. I am going to dissect your post, only in the interest of education. Quote:
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Some polishes, particularly those used by body shops are designed to fill in paint defects. Sadly, most body shops do not realize that a polish (or a compound) is nothing more than abrasive grains suspended in a solution. It really is liquid sandpaper. The only difference is instead of sticking the abrasives to a piece of paper, they are suspended in a slurry. This allows much finer abrasives to be used, some are finer than 10,000 grit, which is why you can achieve a perfect, long-lasting finish. The key here is educating the body shops that their methods are wrong as well as educating them on what a polish really is. Quote:
Both a polish and wetsanding accomplish the same thing: removing paint via abrasive friction. A polish, when used correctly, can leave a scratch pattern that is in the 20-30k range, far finer than our human eye can see. Quote:
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03-20-2014, 07:03 AM | #46 | |
Drives: 19 Z06 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Oakville Ont.
Posts: 1,427
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Great advise. My car is black as well.
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03-20-2014, 08:51 AM | #47 |
Drives: The shiny ones. Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: In the detail shop!
Posts: 5,979
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Well said Todd!!
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03-20-2014, 10:36 AM | #48 |
Drives: 2014 Red Rock 2SS 1LE RS NPP Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Hudson Valley New York
Posts: 246
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I just picked up some Adams orange Paint Correcting Polish and the white Paint Finishing Polish, used the Adams ornage and white foam pads with a Flex DA and had excellent results on my wifes Infinity M37x. Followed it up with Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Car looks like it came off the showroom floor.
My new Red Rock 1LE goes next. |
03-20-2014, 11:07 AM | #49 | |
Drives: 2012 AGM SS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,407
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03-20-2014, 11:20 AM | #50 |
Vrrrm.
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 1,495
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Really makes no sense for him to wet sand cars I mean your wasting your time and customers money if your adding extra steps. The new 2 step processes out could save you major work time I suggest you look a little deeper into this you may find new methods/products that work better for ya.
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03-21-2014, 06:20 PM | #51 | |
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03-21-2014, 06:47 PM | #52 |
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03-21-2014, 06:51 PM | #53 |
Let's go Rangers!
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best way to remove swirl marks?
Best way to remove swirls= learn the proper way to clean / care for the paint as to not create them. EOL= end of lesson.
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03-21-2014, 06:51 PM | #54 |
Agreed ^
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