I'm so depressed...should I trade my 2012 in? (CEL/etc) - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 07:45 AM

I'll keep this short.

I bought my 2012 LS about 6 years ago, with 17k miles on it. I first (after many attempts) resolved an issue with the torque converter seal.

Then, a short time later, I had the CEL/Stabilitrak issues that many of us have seen. After a Seafoam cleaning, the CEL issue became a two to three times a year occurrence at most.

Now that I'm well outside of warranty (and at 79k miles), these issues are back, and Onstar informed me that my code was a low voltage in my 5th cylinder fuel injector. There is a service bulletin related to it.

But...based on my own experience, and what I've read here, I could be looking at repeated visits to Chevy, possibly thousands of dollars, with the potential of no real resolution. I am living paycheck to paycheck, and my current car loan will be over in 10 months...I just wanted to make it to that point.

So now I'm debating, staring down the CEL road again, or just taking that $500 I would have spent on the most minimum repair and put that towards a down payment of something new? I fear I won't be able to afford another Camaro...I mean, maybe the turbo 4...this is so depressing.

tstodii · 12-10-2019, 08:19 AM

That's a hard one when living check to check. I know the feeling and it can be very depressing until you claw your way out of it! Good luck!

I'd sit down with Excel or a sheet of paper and figure out what payment will be comfortable for you. Also, an avg. you think you would spend keeping your current car running over the next say 3 to 4 years. Then get the ROUGH trade in value for your vehicle off NADA or KBB. That will give you a good idea of the LEAST amount of money you should take for the car if traded. I'm not sure what your payment is but I would think you could find a nice 16+ used with low miles for a decent payment. Just shop around and be willing to drive a bit. I see you are up in NJ so you should be able to snag a great deal since most everyone has locked up their pony cars for the year.

Here are a few on Auto Trader up in the 07001 zip code. Looks like they can be had for 16k and up.

I took a shot in the dark guessing a zip near you but know nothing about NJ

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...&firstRecord=0

Good luck!

wasthatacop? · 12-10-2019, 09:28 AM

I feel your pain, I also went thru a bunch of problems when I first got my Camaro. I ended up forking out a lot of money and made the decision to hold onto my 2010 for a long time. Sounds like it may be time to trade in your Camaro for a different one.

On the other hand life with no car payment is beautiful. I am still waiting another 2.5 years until my car payment is over.

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 09:40 AM

Thank you for your support, this is very stressful.

If I had faith in Chevy finding and properly fixing this CEL issue, without having to pay for them to replace random things until it is resolved, then I could plan a bit better. I could be looking at $500 and a long term fix, or $1,500 and going back there in 2 months. Ugh.

mikeman · 12-10-2019, 12:49 PM

Why not try diagnosing the problem yourself? It's obvious from your experience that taking it from dealer to dealer is not resolving the problem. There's a wealth of information on this site so why not start here and do some research.

Also, it might be a good idea to invest in the factory service manual for your car. That way, you can run down the diagnostic flow charts to narrow in on the problem. Nothing is impossible to fix if you approach it step by step.

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeman

Why not try diagnosing the problem yourself? It's obvious from your experience that taking it from dealer to dealer is not resolving the problem. There's a wealth of information on this site so why not start here and do some research.

Also, it might be a good idea to invest in the factory service manual for your car. That way, you can run down the diagnostic flow charts to narrow in on the problem. Nothing is impossible to fix if you approach it step by step.

I would love to do this...that is in my nature. I've already been doing a ton of research related to this specific incident, I'd like to do a visual inspection of the wires running to the 5th fuel injector, but I'm still looking for a good chart to work with (not stuff I'm too familiar with).

The three problems I would run into is...I have no garage or any place to work...I have no automotive tools...and it's my only car, which I need to use daily. Otherwise I'd be more than happy to work on it myself, try and figure it all out.

EDIT: My current plan is to give the dealership 1 shot at repairing this issue...either it is something they can fix in one visit, or it's one of those never ending mystery issues. If it looks like it can't get resolved, then it is likely time to move on.

mikeman · 12-10-2019, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJScorpio

I would love to do this...that is in my nature. I've already been doing a ton of research related to this specific incident, I'd like to do a visual inspection of the wires running to the 5th fuel injector, but I'm still looking for a good chart to work with (not stuff I'm too familiar with).

The three problems I would run into is...I have no garage or any place to work...I have no automotive tools...and it's my only car, which I need to use daily. Otherwise I'd be more than happy to work on it myself, try and figure it all out.

EDIT: My current plan is to give the dealership 1 shot at repairing this issue...either it is something they can fix in one visit, or it's one of those never ending mystery issues. If it looks like it can't get resolved, then it is likely time to move on.

No place and no tools is a tough situation to be in. I'd tell you to go to a large vacant parking lot or even the local "pick a part" junkyard to work on it (people do that around here), but the weather in Jersey is probably not too good right now.

Taking it in to the dealer may be a bad choice. You may need to take it to an independent shop like "Spec" did. The dealer is obviously not willing nor able to fix the problem. So, I'd try looking for a good independent shop in your area.

Gordy87 · 12-10-2019, 01:22 PM

You could try swapping the "issue injector" as OnStar has stated and swap around with another one. See if the problem follows the injector. If it stays on #5, could be in the wiring or little deeper. Maybe someone a little more experienced could chime in on some potential fixes/faults for that though. At least that would be a place to start. Also, if OnStar is stating this issue on #5, dealer should take that into consideration in their diagnostic process.

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeman

No place and no tools is a tough situation to be in. I'd tell you to go to a large vacant parking lot or even the local "pick a part" junkyard to work on it (people do that around here), but the weather in Jersey is probably not too good right now.

Taking it in to the dealer may be a bad choice. You may need to take it to an independent shop like "Spec" did. The dealer is obviously not willing nor able to fix the problem. So, I'd try looking for a good independent shop in your area.

The mechanic I trusted is a few hours away, and I think he is in his 80's by now! If anyone reading this has suggestions for central jersey mechanics, I would appreciate it.

Since it's been a few years since I've dealt with CEL/Stabilitrak, and this dealership, it's more of an expectation that I'll be running into issues. For all I know, things may go smooth this time. As I said, I feel like I could/should give them one shot to resolve this, this time.

But I am going to try and remove that throttle controller....I have it set to zero anyway.

LEGOspeed · 12-10-2019, 01:24 PM

I’ll also keep this short.

Yup.

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 01:40 PM

Taking it one step at a time, trying to eliminate issues prior to spending a ton of money, I think (as mikeman mentioned) I should remove the throttle controller. I may do that tonight, and then give it another day or so of driving before bringing it in for repairs (I intended on dropping it off tonight). I'm not sure if it could even result in that specific code, but I know it's cause a few here to have CEL and reduced power. For what it's worth, it's an early model with the two buttons.

redcoats1976 · 12-10-2019, 01:47 PM

if worst comes to worst the 6th gen T4 is a lot peppier than you would expect,especially off a stoplight.id look for one with a manual trans as the A8 is a known issue though.

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redcoats1976

if worst comes to worst the 6th gen T4 is a lot peppier than you would expect,especially off a stoplight.id look for one with a manual trans as the A8 is a known issue though.

I was looking at this one here: https://www.nissan37.com/auto/used-2...r-nj/41227689/

I just happened to know a salesman at that dealership, so it caught my eye. A better deal that what I've seen at Chevy dealers.

What is the issue with the A8s?

NJScorpio · 12-10-2019, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordy87

You could try swapping the "issue injector" as OnStar has stated and swap around with another one. See if the problem follows the injector. If it stays on #5, could be in the wiring or little deeper. Maybe someone a little more experienced could chime in on some potential fixes/faults for that though. At least that would be a place to start. Also, if OnStar is stating this issue on #5, dealer should take that into consideration in their diagnostic process.

I came across this as a suggestion, I'd love to try it, if I had the tools/time.

Because it's something more specific than "I saw a CEL", I do agree that the dealership should be able to use the info to better figure it out.

12-10-2019, 07:45 AM	#1
NJScorpio Drives: 2018 Camaro 1LT Hyper Blue Metallic Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,122	I'm so depressed...should I trade my 2012 in? (CEL/etc) I'll keep this short. I bought my 2012 LS about 6 years ago, with 17k miles on it. I first (after many attempts) resolved an issue with the torque converter seal. Then, a short time later, I had the CEL/Stabilitrak issues that many of us have seen. After a Seafoam cleaning, the CEL issue became a two to three times a year occurrence at most. Now that I'm well outside of warranty (and at 79k miles), these issues are back, and Onstar informed me that my code was a low voltage in my 5th cylinder fuel injector. There is a service bulletin related to it. But...based on my own experience, and what I've read here, I could be looking at repeated visits to Chevy, possibly thousands of dollars, with the potential of no real resolution. I am living paycheck to paycheck, and my current car loan will be over in 10 months...I just wanted to make it to that point. So now I'm debating, staring down the CEL road again, or just taking that $500 I would have spent on the most minimum repair and put that towards a down payment of something new? I fear I won't be able to afford another Camaro...I mean, maybe the turbo 4...this is so depressing. __________________ I may be 100% wrong.

12-10-2019, 09:28 AM	#3
wasthatacop? Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 360 View My Garage	I feel your pain, I also went thru a bunch of problems when I first got my Camaro. I ended up forking out a lot of money and made the decision to hold onto my 2010 for a long time. Sounds like it may be time to trade in your Camaro for a different one. On the other hand life with no car payment is beautiful. I am still waiting another 2.5 years until my car payment is over. __________________ 2010 2SS living in Los Angeles replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete

12-10-2019, 09:40 AM	#4
NJScorpio Drives: 2018 Camaro 1LT Hyper Blue Metallic Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,122	Thank you for your support, this is very stressful. If I had faith in Chevy finding and properly fixing this CEL issue, without having to pay for them to replace random things until it is resolved, then I could plan a bit better. I could be looking at $500 and a long term fix, or $1,500 and going back there in 2 months. Ugh. __________________ I may be 100% wrong.

12-10-2019, 01:40 PM	#11
NJScorpio Drives: 2018 Camaro 1LT Hyper Blue Metallic Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,122	Taking it one step at a time, trying to eliminate issues prior to spending a ton of money, I think (as mikeman mentioned) I should remove the throttle controller. I may do that tonight, and then give it another day or so of driving before bringing it in for repairs (I intended on dropping it off tonight). I'm not sure if it could even result in that specific code, but I know it's cause a few here to have CEL and reduced power. For what it's worth, it's an early model with the two buttons. __________________ I may be 100% wrong.

12-10-2019, 08:19 AM	#2
tstodii Drives: White 2015 Z/28 Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Charleston SC Posts: 208	That's a hard one when living check to check. I know the feeling and it can be very depressing until you claw your way out of it! Good luck! I'd sit down with Excel or a sheet of paper and figure out what payment will be comfortable for you. Also, an avg. you think you would spend keeping your current car running over the next say 3 to 4 years. Then get the ROUGH trade in value for your vehicle off NADA or KBB. That will give you a good idea of the LEAST amount of money you should take for the car if traded. I'm not sure what your payment is but I would think you could find a nice 16+ used with low miles for a decent payment. Just shop around and be willing to drive a bit. I see you are up in NJ so you should be able to snag a great deal since most everyone has locked up their pony cars for the year. Here are a few on Auto Trader up in the 07001 zip code. Looks like they can be had for 16k and up. I took a shot in the dark guessing a zip near you but know nothing about NJ https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...&firstRecord=0 Good luck!

12-10-2019, 12:49 PM	#5
mikeman Banned Drives: 2015 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: My Garage Posts: 1,125	Why not try diagnosing the problem yourself? It's obvious from your experience that taking it from dealer to dealer is not resolving the problem. There's a wealth of information on this site so why not start here and do some research. Also, it might be a good idea to invest in the factory service manual for your car. That way, you can run down the diagnostic flow charts to narrow in on the problem. Nothing is impossible to fix if you approach it step by step.

12-10-2019, 01:22 PM	#8
Gordy87 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Georgia Posts: 300 View My Garage	You could try swapping the "issue injector" as OnStar has stated and swap around with another one. See if the problem follows the injector. If it stays on #5, could be in the wiring or little deeper. Maybe someone a little more experienced could chime in on some potential fixes/faults for that though. At least that would be a place to start. Also, if OnStar is stating this issue on #5, dealer should take that into consideration in their diagnostic process.

12-10-2019, 01:24 PM	#10
LEGOspeed Banned Drives: Chev Camaro Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Us Posts: 11	I’ll also keep this short. Yup.

12-10-2019, 01:47 PM	#12
redcoats1976 Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: central florida Posts: 4,915	if worst comes to worst the 6th gen T4 is a lot peppier than you would expect,especially off a stoplight.id look for one with a manual trans as the A8 is a known issue though.