Pfadt Rear Sway bar, holy moly, anyone else?!!?? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

JDP Sales · 01-27-2014, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 130R

Sorry no, those do NOTHING more than a large washer will do; nothing. But if it's worth $30.00 for some peace of mind, by all means, spend the $30.00…

I'm sorry, but I respectfully disagree.. see the small tabs that fold under and into the control arm to disperse the load? That is the reason they are better than washers, otherwise every company who makes these reinforcement brackets wouldn't have bothered to something along those lines.

Pfadt:

BMR

Granatelli

O.P,

I suggest getting a new rear lower control arm along with some reinforcement brackets. As said before, the newer style has provisions for both styles so that when/if you decide to upgrade to the FE4 style down the road, you will be one step closer. Not to mention they are cheap! Probably close to the cost of having them repaired.

Let me know if I can answer any questions for you.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Jrichards73 · 01-27-2014, 08:00 PM

The bracket hooks under the arm because the load is pulling UP on the connection, a washer will keep it from pulling OUT, but has no effect in the vertical, which is the issue.

The Newer arm has the same tabs, and they are just as weak. They are $60 apiece so not really expensive and it gives you both mounting points. I would buy the arm and then have a piece welded to the tab area.

axis · 01-27-2014, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 130R

Says the guy trying to sell a set of brackets…

Let me guess, you haven't tried a washer of appropriate diameter and thickness, but know the aftermarket bracket works better?

All I know is when I 1st started seeing posts of the LCAs tearing, I decided to reinforce the area with an appropriate washer (thickness and diameter). After 2 years and 34K hard canyon miles (peak lateral loads of 1.2g) with the rear bar at its maximum setting, my LCA's still look new.

I agree I wouldn't repair the old LCA though; just replace it. For the cost of the arm, repairing it is more trouble than its worth...

Not everyone had this issue. You may have never had of this issue, even without your washers. I didn't have a problem either but have run a set since they came out. Cheap insurance. As was pointed out, it's not as much a lateral load as it's a vertical one. A washer isn't going to help much in that instance. There were several fixes back then, from welding to bolting a new bracket in. Pfadts solution was the easiest FIX since it addresses all the possible scenarios without drilling or welding. We're all glad your washers worked for you but more than likely, it wouldn't have helped the people that had failures.

Jrichards73 · 01-27-2014, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 130R

Since someone may use an inappropriate sized washer, I will concede and recommend the brackets instead… How's that?

I'll also agree the washer certainly helps, since you are sandwiching the metal, the bracket is only marginally better without welding them in. Of course if you can weld them in you would just grab some existing stock to use. The tabs make it idiot proof for those that can't, and hopefully stave of failure until they move on to the next cool thing...

sting808 · 01-27-2014, 09:55 PM

FYI

Had a pair of BMRs for sale. If I can find them... I converted to FE4 LCA and using the new style swaybars. I have my old LCA if you want them, but they are drilled out for the larger 12mm studs. I believe I may still have the BMR braces that are on them, drilled out, too. Just pay shipping and they're yours. But need the larger endlink studs so not recommended.

Here's a BMR brace that uses the older 10mm OE studs.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322735

If you weld them, the Pfadt/BMR bracket brace may not fit well if done sloppy. If you're replacing, do consider replacing both LCA and going the new style FE4 swaybar design. It's much much better than the old FE3 style, inside mount version.

Rogan · 05-15-2014, 11:57 PM

Not sure if the dealer had to take off the lower control arm to replace the half shafts and maybe they didn't bolt the endlink on hard, but I had pfadt reinforcement.

Dexman1349 · 05-16-2014, 10:01 AM

Whoa. Ouch. But they look like they were installed backwards. I had my tabs facing the other way...

JDP Sales · 05-16-2014, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

Whoa. Ouch. But they look like they were installed backwards. I had my tabs facing the other way...

Agreed, they were installed incorrectly.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Rogan · 05-17-2014, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Agreed, they were installed incorrectly.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Well I'm gonna get a stock fe3 lca and install correctly. Thanks!

01-27-2014, 08:00 PM	#16
Jrichards73 Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Victory Red Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 921	The bracket hooks under the arm because the load is pulling UP on the connection, a washer will keep it from pulling OUT, but has no effect in the vertical, which is the issue. The Newer arm has the same tabs, and they are just as weak. They are $60 apiece so not really expensive and it gives you both mounting points. I would buy the arm and then have a piece welded to the tab area. __________________ Updates: BTR Stage 2 VVT Cam Kit w/Smith Brothers Trunnions, Fluidampr, RX catch can, B&M Trans pan mod, Kooks Black Headers, Borla S-tunes, Eibach Multi-Pro-R2 coilovers and Swaybars, BMR Full Bushing kit with Toe and Trailing arms, RB Rotors w/EBC Pads, GForce 1400 Axles (now on order). AVH-X5800BHS in Scosche GM5201AB.

05-15-2014, 11:57 PM	#20
Rogan No Pain No Gain Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: GA Posts: 1,519	Not sure if the dealer had to take off the lower control arm to replace the half shafts and maybe they didn't bolt the endlink on hard, but I had pfadt reinforcement. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors

05-16-2014, 10:01 AM	#21
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Whoa. Ouch. But they look like they were installed backwards. I had my tabs facing the other way... __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

01-27-2014, 09:55 PM	#19
sting808 Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Posts: 930	FYI Had a pair of BMRs for sale. If I can find them... I converted to FE4 LCA and using the new style swaybars. I have my old LCA if you want them, but they are drilled out for the larger 12mm studs. I believe I may still have the BMR braces that are on them, drilled out, too. Just pay shipping and they're yours. But need the larger endlink studs so not recommended. Here's a BMR brace that uses the older 10mm OE studs. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322735 If you weld them, the Pfadt/BMR bracket brace may not fit well if done sloppy. If you're replacing, do consider replacing both LCA and going the new style FE4 swaybar design. It's much much better than the old FE3 style, inside mount version.