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Old 06-21-2018, 10:55 PM   #1
Move_Over

 
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Trailer Tie Downs

Hi guys, question for you all who are trailering to the track. How are you tying the 6 gen camaro down on your trailers? My aluminum trailer has 4 tie down locations on the 4 corners and my last three cars (two M3's and a z06) have have the T hooks which get straight to the frame and the cars do not bounce over bumps. They are rock solid and I have never had a T hook budge on me.

With that being said, every time I have towed a car using wheel straps, i do not feel the car is as stable as it should be as i can feel the trailer bouncing from the cars suspension. I find that going through the wheels the straps tend to give a bit, and get loose over hours of driving...

Has anyone tried the Zl1 addons tie downs? Seems like they make sense, however wanted first hand experience. They seem to serve the same purpose as a Thook straight the the frame.

Before anyone recommends an Etrack, i don't have the ability to use an Etrack on my open aluminum trailer, and that still leaves the frame unloaded.

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:15 PM   #2
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Wheel straps on the front

Lower control arms, crossed, for the rear

I'm one of those guys who dont like strapping down on the sprung weight of the car. Some people like loading the suspension down, but to each their own. Not my car, so they can put their car on their trailer with just a parking brake for all I care. Lol
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Old 06-22-2018, 08:16 AM   #3
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I'm in the same camp as danhr about not strapping down the sprung mass of the car. I'm planning to strap over the wheels similar to this one. In your case, since e-track isn't an option, you could maybe bolt a few d-rings or something to the trailer deck instead? Strapping over the wheels like that will be plenty stable and is how GM secures them on both trailers and boats. Strapping through the wheels or suspension might also be OK, but I'm personally trying to avoid it just because it's not as uniform for load distribution and has a higher risk of damaging the car and/or straps. I'm probably overly cautious when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I try to follow the OEM recommended towing suggestions whenever I can.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:58 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Move_Over View Post
Hi guys, question for you all who are trailering to the track. How are you tying the 6 gen camaro down on your trailers? My aluminum trailer has 4 tie down locations on the 4 corners and my last three cars (two M3's and a z06) have have the T hooks which get straight to the frame and the cars do not bounce over bumps. They are rock solid and I have never had a T hook budge on me.

With that being said, every time I have towed a car using wheel straps, i do not feel the car is as stable as it should be as i can feel the trailer bouncing from the cars suspension. I find that going through the wheels the straps tend to give a bit, and get loose over hours of driving...

Has anyone tried the Zl1 addons tie downs? Seems like they make sense, however wanted first hand experience. They seem to serve the same purpose as a Thook straight the the frame.

Before anyone recommends an Etrack, i don't have the ability to use an Etrack on my open aluminum trailer, and that still leaves the frame unloaded.

Thanks in advance
I have the ZL1 add ons tie down units and they work great. They bolt to rigid areas as expected and you can have your straps on and off very quickly. I just purchased a trailer so I can give a better review once I check it out. I don't anticipate any issues. The borrowed trailers I've used in the past worked well with the ZL1 add on tie downs.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:59 AM   #5
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Strapping to a control arm makes me uneasy because they're going to be moving every time the sprung mass moves. Just not as far.

I wouldn't even think of strapping to a control arm or other link that isn't itself carrying the suspension spring and/or shock. Seen where a link with location function only loaded like that somewhere along the line buckle at autocross (sending the wheel into a huge amount of positive camber).


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Old 06-23-2018, 07:31 AM   #6
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Strapping to a control arm makes me uneasy because they're going to be moving every time the sprung mass moves. Just not as far.

I wouldn't even think of strapping to a control arm or other link that isn't itself carrying the suspension spring and/or shock. Seen where a link with location function only loaded like that somewhere along the line buckle at autocross (sending the wheel into a huge amount of positive camber).


Norm
You’re correct, strapping to control arms, camber arms, tie rods etc should never be an option. They look enticing to strap to since they are easily accessible but they are typically not extremely ridged.

Yanking a 10k strap down (especially crossed) on suspension or wheels can pull a car out of alignment quite easily. Seen it too many times.

I wonder why Chevy took the T hook frame holes out of the 6th gen. All of my precious cars have had them and they are great and provide an even load across the cars.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:38 AM   #7
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I've been using four wheel straps and it has worked well so far. I do check it every few hours to be on the safe side. I have the ZL1 tie down points as well, but the location of the front is impossible to reach and the rear came loose on me once.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Move_Over View Post
You’re correct, strapping to control arms, camber arms, tie rods etc should never be an option. They look enticing to strap to since they are easily accessible but they are typically not extremely ridged.

Yanking a 10k strap down (especially crossed) on suspension or wheels can pull a car out of alignment quite easily. Seen it too many times.

I wonder why Chevy took the T hook frame holes out of the 6th gen. All of my precious cars have had them and they are great and provide an even load across the cars.
Where would you attach to the rear then.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:48 PM   #9
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Where would you attach to the rear then.
Typically through a T hook slot, but this car doesn’t have one. Control arm isn’t an option, the rear ZL1 add on hooks bolt to the rear subframe/carriage which is looking like the best option.
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