AC/Actuator Door Class Action - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

redcoats1976 · 03-23-2020, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

If it were metal, then the motor would break instead of the door. Yeah,
easier to replace than that huge flapping door..

The reason the doors are breaking at the motor end, is because when you
go full cold, to the BLUE dot, the door stops, but the motor keeps twisting
on the door. Eventually, it twists off at the door end. There is a video out
there that shows this. So, you have to stop two hash marks before the
cold blue DOT so it doesn't keep twisting on the plastic when the door
goes as far as it can, but the motor will keep torque on it.

got it,i will remember to stop two clicks before full cold.

xc_SS/RS · 03-23-2020, 01:16 PM

So don’t go set it to ‘Max Cold’. Put it on the click before max cold and then click the recirculation button?

0stones0 · 03-23-2020, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

So don’t go set it to ‘Max Cold’. Put it on the click before max cold and then click the recirculation button?

Go to post #12 in this thread for a picture.

xc_SS/RS · 03-23-2020, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Go to post #12 in this thread for a picture.

Could’ve just said yes, but thanks

0stones0 · 03-23-2020, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

Could’ve just said yes, but thanks

Well, it’s not the click from max cold but, 2 clicks from the blue dot. That’s why I offered looking at the pic.

'10CamaroDude · 03-23-2020, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

So don’t go set it to ‘Max Cold’. Put it on the click before max cold and then click the recirculation button?

Has nothing to do with re-circulation. TO keep the door from binding up,
and the motor torquing it, stop 2-3 clicks before the blue DOT.

TO get your precise location:

https://youtu.be/o2_8GUz1RMA
Bear with it...

You can do that to see when your motor starts to twist. Back off so it goes
straight, then mark your bezel for the stop mark.

Aqua Blue RS/SS · 03-23-2020, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

Has nothing to do with re-circulation. TO keep the door from binding up,
and the motor torquing it, stop 2-3 clicks before the blue DOT.

TO get your precise location:

https://youtu.be/o2_8GUz1RMA
Bear with it...

You can do that to see when your motor starts to twist. Back off so it goes
straight, then mark your bezel for the stop mark.

He’s asking to turn on recirc so as to achieve max ac without turning the dial that far.

Nb1081 · 03-24-2020, 06:14 AM

Heater treater needs to get into the camaro game with their blend doors

'10CamaroDude · 03-24-2020, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

He’s asking to turn on recirc so as to achieve max ac without turning the dial that far.

The door STOPS before you reach the BLUE DOT, because it can't go any
farther, but the motor KEEPS GOING as you progress the dial to the blue dot.

You're at MAX before you even hit the BLUE DOT in the first place. If you
relocated the blue dot two marks before where it is now, then what? You're
at MAX there anyway. There is no heat blended, the DOOR has gone as
far as it's going to go well before you dial to the blue dot.

The door cannot physically go any farther, it's HARD STOPPED against
the heater core. This is why they break, the door hits the barrier, and
the motor keeps twisting on it as you turn it into the blue.

SO, you use that video to see where your door hits the HARD stop, back
off till the motor assembly straitens out, then mark it on your bezel.

Aqua Blue RS/SS · 03-24-2020, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

The door STOPS before you reach the BLUE DOT, because it can't go any
farther, but the motor KEEPS GOING as you progress the dial to the blue dot.

You're at MAX before you even hit the BLUE DOT in the first place. If you
relocated the blue dot two marks before where it is now, then what? You're
at MAX there anyway. There is no heat blended, the DOOR has gone as
far as it's going to go well before you dial to the blue dot.

The door cannot physically go any farther, it's HARD STOPPED against
the heater core. This is why they break, the door hits the barrier, and
the motor keeps twisting on it as you turn it into the blue.

SO, you use that video to see where your door hits the HARD stop, back
off till the motor assembly straitens out, then mark it on your bezel.

I realize that. What I’m saying really has nothing to do with the video. There’s a difference between the coldest setting and max ac. Max ac turns the recirc on automatically if it’s not already on. If you don’t go to the max ac setting, and you don’t have the recirc on, its gonna stay off when you stop two clicks before the blue dot. This it will not get as cold as it would if you were recirc on pulling inside air.

0stones0 · 03-24-2020, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

I realize that. What I’m saying really has nothing to do with the video. There’s a difference between the coldest setting and max ac. Max ac turns the recirc on automatically if it’s not already on. If you don’t go to the max ac setting, and you don’t have the recirc on, its gonna stay off when you stop two clicks before the blue dot. This it will not get as cold as it would if you were recirc on pulling inside air.

Thanks for clarifying. Might put a small label by the mark on the bezel stating “recirc on” or something to that affect.

Aqua Blue RS/SS · 03-24-2020, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0stones0

Thanks for clarifying. Might put a small label by the mark on the bezel stating “recirc on” or something to that affect.

Also as a side note the blue dot is not max ac. If you go one click past the blue do where it says max ac, that’s max ac... the blue dot is the coldest setting on the dial but will not turn on the recirc that is required for max ac.

'10CamaroDude · 03-24-2020, 06:40 PM

Yep, and the problem is, the door has hard stopped even before the blue dot.
So, going farther, twists on the door even more. It's some bad calibration issue,
there is more travel in the knob than the door can move. They all suffer this
problem.

I see what he was saying, you won't get it to go RECIRC automatically because
you stopped well before the "max" setting. Well, there is a RECIRC button you
can press. I never use recirc anyway, no fresh air. @ MAX A/C, the blend door
is already stopped, the MAX is just closing the outside intake door, re-circulation
for cooling air in the cabin, which will get cooler and cooler rather than cooling
the same temperature air from outside.

I read in this forum that when you start the car, the actuator cycles to
it's internal stop COLD, then goes back to the dial setting. So, according
to that thread, your door gets twisted every time you key on.

mikeman · 03-25-2020, 09:17 AM

Yeah, if the door cycles everytime you start the car, then all of this before the blue dot technique stuff will not work. That's probably the real culprit. If the door cycles every time you start the car, that's where the real damage comes from. It's just too much wear on a cheaply designed badly engineered part.

They should have reinforced the areas prone to rotational stress on the blend door with metal.

03-23-2020, 01:16 PM	#16
xc_SS/RS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: somewhere in MD Posts: 4,883	So don’t go set it to ‘Max Cold’. Put it on the click before max cold and then click the recirculation button? __________________ 2010 2SS/RS Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

03-24-2020, 06:14 AM	#22
Nb1081 Drives: 10 2ss/rs Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Shelby ny Posts: 436	Heater treater needs to get into the camaro game with their blend doors __________________ [/SIGPIC]10 2ss ls3 sw long tubes,cai intake,phastek scoop,se3" exhaust,elite e2, bw stg2tb, tsp f35, motive 4.10 lpw cover, 15" conversion, 510whp tuned by john donovan

03-24-2020, 06:40 PM	#27
'10CamaroDude Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Pgh Posts: 739 View My Garage	Yep, and the problem is, the door has hard stopped even before the blue dot. So, going farther, twists on the door even more. It's some bad calibration issue, there is more travel in the knob than the door can move. They all suffer this problem. I see what he was saying, you won't get it to go RECIRC automatically because you stopped well before the "max" setting. Well, there is a RECIRC button you can press. I never use recirc anyway, no fresh air. @ MAX A/C, the blend door is already stopped, the MAX is just closing the outside intake door, re-circulation for cooling air in the cabin, which will get cooler and cooler rather than cooling the same temperature air from outside. I read in this forum that when you start the car, the actuator cycles to it's internal stop COLD, then goes back to the dial setting. So, according to that thread, your door gets twisted every time you key on.

03-25-2020, 09:17 AM	#28
mikeman Banned Drives: 2015 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: My Garage Posts: 1,125	Yeah, if the door cycles everytime you start the car, then all of this before the blue dot technique stuff will not work. That's probably the real culprit. If the door cycles every time you start the car, that's where the real damage comes from. It's just too much wear on a cheaply designed badly engineered part. They should have reinforced the areas prone to rotational stress on the blend door with metal.